CorollaNut68

hey parrot, I need a bolt and washer for the crankshaft pulley on my 3K. new crank...old worn bolt won't go back in. Do you know how many are the same? I can find one for a 4K that is 13471C from JPcarparts .com but I can't find any pictures to tell if it's the same thing. I'm assuming it has to be this big and heavy for some reason...or can I just find a bolt that fits?

Well???? What happened with the mysterious head #39???? This is as bad as Game of Thrones...start reading a story line...get interested in it....and it just stops! Plus...this made me look at mine #24010-200, and according to the wiki it's a 3K big port "without" water jackets. What does that mean? It DOES have water circulating through it.

Well it's after Christmas...and he can't get them. I brought one of the Toyota head bolts with me, it has no marking except some kind of symbol but this guy thinks they are grade 11 or 12. I don't know these things. Do any of you?

Well guys...thanks to this topic and Dregs answer, it suddenly occurred to me that there is a Fastenal store not two blocks behind me. I've been considering ordering new bolts from RockAuto but they are $200. I'm about to bore and rebuild my 3K. After reading this, I just looked and I can get SAE Grade 8's for about $2 apiece. Hmmm....$20 vs $200....what will I do? As long as these originals don't turn out to be some funky thread pattern. Gotta wait til after Christmas to find out though. Thanks and Merry Christmas!

I've been running nothing but Castrol GTX 20/50 for 30 years (800,00 miles)and never had any issues. Well...no oil related issues. Sometimes people just make things too complicated. Keep it full and relatively clean. If you've had zero issues with what you're using, no sense in changing. I use thicker because all I want to hear is the exhaust note, and our summers are hot and winters short. Hell the tolerances in these engines are almost in inches. I had one keep running for months. though badly. Didn't have time to mess with it. When I finally parked it and took it apart, there was a crack right down the middle of the cylinders, a crack to the outside of the block seeping water, 3 broken pistons and a matching crack down the head among other things. It was still getting me to work. That was a "factory second" 3K crate engine with a K head on it running 10-1, with stock carby and my special pair of 2-1 headers with dual exhaust. Yep, I'm American, gotta have duals. I'm thinking the block did not pass quality control. Stout as hell and quick for several years before it finally went to pieces. That's the engine i was clocked at 131 mph (210 kph) with. And the stock 4:22 gears. Hahaha radiator went off like a bomb during that run. Blew the whole top off. Should have removed the thermostat. Braided hose held better than the soldered brass. But hey...all of that and no gunk inside from crappy oil!

Try here... http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1974,corolla,1.2l+l4,1367614,suspension,shock+absorber,7556.

Thanks Taz, That's good to know for the future but it seems I just need the pin now. The old one popped right out after drilling into it with a good bit. I'm off to order pistons and bearings now that I know I can save it.

Never mind.....I got the old pin out and am trying to find another pin. Freaked out for a minute because I can't find a replacement camshaft here in the US.

Thanks Banjo, however after thinking about it as I read the diagrams it may not be a good idea to make brighter hotter bulbs inside my 50 year old plastic lens covers. The headlights will be fine, glass covers and all, but I don't want to possibly melt anything. (I'm also laughing because there's a Nissan ad at the bottom of the page right now)

:)

Nice! Rear shocks you can find a lot of places KYB Excel 343140 is most common where I am...the fronts...man....good luck. If all the original guts are in there you MIGHT be able to rebuild them but inserts that really fit are no longer made that I can find.

So if I always leave 2 black stripes when I smoke the tires it's limited slip right? I'm getting a scream at certain speeds less if under load that I can't tell where it's from, diff or trans...put new bearings in diff no change. Some guts from a previous one...note the broken tooth on the pinion.

The problem us lefties run into is the box is on the same side as the exhaust and starter motor and it's really crowded. My plan is to sneak into the Toyo Museum and swap parts out with the display model, it should have about a million miles less than mine does.

Years ago before the electric interweb I was trying to get ball joints for my KE10. The parts guy said he could only get the next ones up which had a thicker shaft. I had to slightly bore out the hole in the spindle to fit them. After the interweb, I was able to find originals but they don't fit so good any more. As far as I can tell they used one kind for 68-70 (US anyway) and another for 71-74. I ordered the later ones from RockAuto which are supposed to be 71-74 but they are bigger everywhere, won't fit the frame or the spindle. It said they were (european market?) Now it seems I have three sizes Original small shaft which won't fit any more Whatever it was I got years ago which fit the frame but had a slight thicker shaft (no part no. visible) And now whatever this is I got from RockAuto which won't fit anything. Searching the part number It says Corolla from 5-71 through 5-97 and that doesn't seem possible. http://www.turningci...roducts/TCC233. Shown are original size and the whatever they are. I have the one with the slightly thicker shaft stuck in the car right now to hold it in place because the snobbies don't like to see you working on stuff around here so I can't leave it on the jack stands. Can't go anywhere til I get this sorted. You can't weld the originals in on the cast iron, (Tried it anyway) I may have to find another beater to drive while I figure this out. Not any older models left anywhere to scavenge parts from. You're lucky to find anything even 20 years old in the yards now, bastards crush everything. I could possibly make them fit the frame with a little modification and welding but I'm afraid drilling out the spindle more won't leave enough meat and it will break under stress.

My US model has seat belts and I've had several kid seats in the back over the years, should be 4 holes between the seat bottom and back where eyebolts attach, not sure if the holes are threaded but I think so. All the bodies should have about the same places for fittings, mine has all the cutouts for right hand drive, you'd just have to swap the dash...actually you could almost put the instrument cluster in the glovebox hole but the ignition would be on the opposite side of the car. I can belt three people in the back (small people) but nowdays I'm the only one ever in the car.

I wonder if you could do the same for the tail lights. I put a 30 amp relay and a small power block under the dash to run the radio, amp, sub , driving lights etc so I don't have to hook to the overworked little fuse box. The relay only kicks on when the ignition is on so I don't save channels on the radio but I also don't have a trickle draining my battery all the time. Still want to do an alternator upgrade one of these days.

I'd love to know how to replace those (brass?) bushings inside the steering box...that's where all my slack is.

I've got new bearings and seals and will be attempting to rebuild my original next week...Something in there is screaming like a banshee unless under drive pressure (acceleration), can't cruise. It's hard to tell if it's coming from the diff or the trans.

"Mothers" Mag and Aluminum Polish. Works on any metal...use a cloth polisher on a drill to save some elbow. haha even if the chrome is gone it will shine the iron. (it will take overspray off of glass without scratching too)

I kinda hope values don't go up much ( at least until after I get through with mine :) ) Years ago I could still find transmissions and such for $30-40, they were all pretty used up and I finished a lot of em off...need another one soon. If the old Rollas ever really get collectible over here, prices for everything will go crazy. There are really very few of the oldest left...there's a '69 a couple of towns over, occasionally I'll see something early '70s. The few times I've seen any KE's for sale they've been thousands of miles away, the coastal and northern area cars tend to be eaten up with rust too. If it's wrecked beyond repair all insurance will give me is about $2500. Of course since no one actually repairs things ( if a body shop can't get a replacement fender they don't know what to do anymore ) a crunched fender or door is considered a total loss...I take the money and get my hammers out again.