CorollaNut68

Sweet! Feels good to be driving one's own handiwork. Congratulations and have a cigar for your new old baby! The rest of my car gets kind of scary, but I can still push my lil 3K up to 100mph for minute...but it does love 65, just a hair below opening the two barrel. I can go back and forth to work all week on $20 or less.

Since I can't run down to the nearest parts store and just get anything (they say "for a what?")....I've kept a couple extra of just about everything but the coil (might as well get another one) in my car for years now...got a mini parts store in there with extra fuses, assorted wire and connectors, caps, rotors, points, condensers, bulbs, bearings, u-joints, a belt, carb kit, nuts bolts, shoestrings and duct tape...I will get home.

I went to AskToyota.com gave em my vin and they gave me the year and month it was built. Other than that I can't get any more info on it like where it was first sold or past owners. Toyota didn't keep the info and our State Police or Revenue Dept can't go back past 1997, I've had it since 88.

I'll see what I can find over here, Thanks..I'm going to try this weekend putting all new bearings in it and see if I can squeeze some more time out of it. But won't putting Datsun parts in my Corolla make it explode? Start rejecting parts, and spewing them out on the highway? here's more on the Borg.http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Borg_Warner_60#Model_68

Hey folks, I've finally about worn out all the parts I have and it's looking like I'm going to have to swap rear ends with something else. Bearings wouldn't be much of a problem but teeth are missing on the pinion gear and my searches are not coming up with anything. Swapping also looks like wheels might be a problem as I can't change the fronts and it has that odd bolt pattern nothing else will fit. Anything I can do and still keep my bolt pattern? In the US of course so shipping something here would be insanely expensive I'm sure.

I don't know how the hub end of the cable works on those, mine is simply hooked to a lever that pulls outward from the rear side of the hub. The cable routes like your "change to" version, but to the rear instead of the front (top down view). As long as it operates correctly and reliably...it just needs to be still (a sturdy mount) and pull a lever (in the right direction and without too much or too little slack) and not be too tight of a bend.. .play with it, park on a hill....just don't do anything you can't undo until you're sure it works.

Great again...new project to fiddle with...thanks

Sounds good, Thanks Jono. Edit...looks like they only go to KE20? Don't have KE10 in the list. But since it slips over, will that still work on a KE10? I tried strut inserts for the 20 once and they wont fit all the way down in the tubes, had to send them back. The 10's have a little part at the bottom end about 1-2 inches that's narrower than the top. I have emailed them with the question, I'll see what they say.

I know putting a 1.1 K head on a 1.2 3K raises comp ratio nicely ...(never measured anything but went from leaving a couple of black marks to being able to smoke the tires off in first and second)...so I would guess the other way round would lower it below 9-1 and suck badly. But they will fit.

Anyone have a thread on these coilovers you're all talking about? Mine is riding like a brick now and I can't find anything over here for the front end. Does it involve changing everything out? Spindle , brakes etc....I have '72 model discs on the front but the rest is all '68. I don't need a lot of adjustment, I just want to keep my teeth in my head.

and to clarify...when you take everything off of the two models of shafts (33311-Input) the only difference is the spline count for the clutch disc,..... So you could probably say if it has 19 spline it's also the 2.022:1 ratio. I bet they changed both at the same time. (slightly smoother transition) Fourth gear is part of the input shaft (one piece) and has the same ratio so they can interchange, second (33332) being different ratio, you have to use the matching one piece countergear (33421). Apparently more is better? They changed a lot of bolts from a coarse thread to a fine thread later too, just to make it interesting. One other slight difference is the number of teeth on the plastic drive gear for the speedo...the gear on the output shaft is the same (5 teeth) but the early uses a keyway and the later uses a ball (33481A)

This is really only good for putting the later models guts into the early models. The 74 should have the later version K40, the shifter is about 6 inches or so further back on the housing than the earlier one. You wouldn't need to worry about moving anything, stick with the later version, you can still get some parts for it if needed. (there was a rare 5 speed but I've only seen pictures). The bell housings are part of the main case and not removable. The acceleration problem isn't in the transmission, if it's got a lot of miles on it, it may be compression is low or a number of other things.....good clutch , good compression, tuned up....it should hit 100+ mph stock. Do you have a tachometer in it? 3rd gear in mine runs about even with mph...35mph, tach shows about 3500 rpms) 3500 rpms in fourth is between 55-60 mph but my tire size is slightly off from stock. If you're on my side of the pond, spare transmissions of that age will be tough to find...(after 74 I think they put the starter on the opposite side of the K motors so we can't use the Starlet transmissions and after that it goes to FWD)....you probably trip over K40's everywhere you go on the other side.

aaaaaand...my 68 STILL works when you turn the key and flip the switches. :rocknroll:

I checked on it today and yes there is a difference...second gear in the 1100 uses 2.050-1.......1200 is 2.022-1. Had I not used the countergear from the 1200 trans...it probably would have ground some teeth off..but I would have found that while test fitting it. So the guts are pretty much interchangeable with the cases...if anybody wants the newer version but doesn't want to change the hole in the floor for the shifter, all you have to do (if you still have the old one) is swap tailshaft covers and the shift rods (selector fork rods). and depending on whether you want 16 or 19 spline clutch, you can swap input shafts.

Not sure...I just used everything from the later except the forks, input shaft, output shaft and the speedometer gear. Fits in the early case exactly the same. Just by sight, I could tell no difference but I didn't count teeth. I took it out for a bit...downshifts well...punched it hard and did some quick shifts...feels good.

I have finally completed my hybrid transmission, driven and tested it, all seems normal. There's not much difference in the guts between the earlier and later K40 transmissions. 16 spline vs 19 on the input shaft...placing of the shifter on the tail shaft and there is an access hole in the later case to put the little peanuts in the shifter forks of the longer one I had the early 16 spline version in the car, just bought new clutch kit when the synchro's went out. Around here, I can't just go find another transmission. I had one in my shop, a later version with 19 spline and shifter further back. It had been broken in half and the output shaft slightly bent (front U-Joint failure at 75 mph) but the guts were still good. I took them both apart, slid all the gears and stuff from the bent output shaft and put them on the good one. The input shafts are interchangeable so I was able to keep the 16 spline for my new clutch. The only real problem turned out to be finding new shims for the output bearing which were the only things besides the brass cups that were destroyed. Hopefully I'll get enough miles out of it to start hunting for that spare. :)

The fuel pump may be gummed up if fuel sat in it... after trying to start it does it smell or act flooded or starved? I've seen needle valve seats be loose after a rebuild...which could flood it. I think you said you cleaned the tank...did you blow out the lines? Do what altezza said if it still won't start on it's own...trickle some gas down the carb...if it starts, I'd look into the pump, it may have deteriorated inside, which would act like you ran out of gas. Soon as they get that "beaming" thing down...we can just pop over and have a look. Where's Scotty when you need him?

Sweet!...(I never trailered mine to the exhaust shop..just risked it and blew thru town open header..lol, way too loud) I 'm hoping to get my frankenmission together this week...making one good transmission out of two...and see if it works.

Yeah well, people expect their cars to do everything for them now...we are just in that awkward phase where the cars are not automated enough yet but the people have already quit learning how to drive..I know so many people in their 20's who don't know how to drive. That was our goal from about 5 years old, by the time I was 12, I was drifting the 68 ford wagon around the back roads (390ci V8)...I'm still a believer in avoiding wrecks and death by being alert to my surroundings and understanding the physics of motion... not sitting in some mobile den watching movies and sipping cappuccino on the way to work. It's like they get so comfortable now that they don't realize the scenes they see through the windshield are not a movie and that they are actually hurtling down the road in 2-3 tons of metal. And it is also a shame that there will never be collectible cars any more...I just can't see any of these new mostly plastic cars holding up well enough...I don't think in 2064 some guy will be saying "dude, check out my sweet antique 2014 rolla!".( my daughter will probably still be driving my KE though...lol)..then again, the 3D printers are coming along, maybe you'll just have to print new parts.

What have they done with the Corolla? I went with my mom to see about trading her car in...a 2007 Yaris sedan. I looked at the new Corolla's while I was in there and the damn things are huge now...sitting on the lot it's hard to tell them from the Camrys and Avalons. They've put it right up there with all the other sedans, 4 door only (which it's been forever now) and weighing in at almost 2 tons loaded. It is no longer affordable or compact...not much difference from the 4cyl version of the Camry. After a nice fight with the sales people (that's what I was there for, I took the classes, I was a car salesman, got a license to sell cars but you don't tell them that until after you see how much bullshit they are going to try to feed you...lol)...Mom ended up with a Waveline Pearl (light blue metallic) 2014 Yaris SE 5 door. I really like it a lot more than the Corolla...It's compact, better visibility than her sedan...almost as small as my 68 KE. It's a lot heavier but 106hp 1.5ltr VVTI, 4whl discs, sport tuned suspension with all the VSC, TRAC,EBA bells and whistles...she's 75 so she really needs a car that will handle a slalom course. Actually, she was tired of having hubcaps and wanted real rims...the SE was the only model without steelies and hubcaps. I've driven it to work a couple of times (to help get it broke in, otherwise it will sit in the driveway) and it drives really nice, very tight steering with electric assist so it's easy to turn one handed even sitting still, doesn't feel heavy like a lot of front wheel drives, corners like crazy and the 4 disc brakes with all the electronic helper gizmos stop quicker than you might expect...hang on to your coffee. It could definitely use a little more pep...but even as it is I might consider a 3 door (5spd) myself in the future since the Rolla's have gone land yacht. To her it's just blue and looks nice...to me, it has all the goodies to help keep her on the road and if she gets hit, there's 9 airbags.