CorollaNut68

Seems you already have it sorted...I've been making all my own cables for some years now. I've had trouble with the stock clutch cable breaking due to all the turns it makes in my LHD. I have actually gotten home with shoestrings tying the broken ends together. (or just killing it when i had to stop, putting it in first and hitting the ignition to take off) It seemed when I could order one, sometimes it would be bare cable sometimes coated but always broke in the same place under the dash on the second turn. I bought the thickest cable that would still fit through the original sheath. I had to cut the ferrules in half to fit in the space I had (the pedal connection has very little room for a bend but it can be done). So far I've gotten about 6 years out of this last one( I drive it every day at least 50 -60 miles), where the originals were going about every 2. Small tight bend on the pedal end, bit larger on the trans lever end with very small pieces of one of those metal cable loops to cover where the pedal and lever contact the cable to prevent wear. Laid out original to get length. Pretty easy to do... chop, chop, slide, bam, bam, done...and waay cheaper...about $3

All I can say DF is...........Holy Crap! I'm happy when mine gets me to work every day...you will definitely need video posted when this gets to the running stages.

mines at the scary point now...my brother works for a tool manufacturer (multi-axis CNC Machines haha)I'm having them very soon re-make the sector roller so it fits tight again. A little over an eighth turn of slack now and follows every bump in the road...

got the 73-74 kit in the mail...took apart my spare....made a bit different but same rubber for the pistons, I'll just have to swap them to the KE10 parts and should be all good. I'll be doing that Thursday.

Found a kit for a 73-74...my Haynes manual (67-74) says that while the outsides on the various master cylinders change, even with the booster, the internals are basically the same. Mines got the cast dual chamber. The only difference I can see from the picture is the shape of one clip. It should be here Monday and we'll see what happens.

Good luck and happy wrenching! Then you can start on that truck I see back there.

looks to me like 68 with a 69 grill on it...69-70 have the vent behind the rear side windows and more reflectors. (this post says it's 68) Kexx Corolla Model Chart . There is also usually a tag on the seat belts with the production date on it...mine matches what Toyota told me, July 1968. To know for certain...go to asktoyota.com and give them your frame number

Yup...gotta take apart the insides first, parcel tray, steering wheel, column cover, unbolt the outside, then slide the whole thing out from under the car. I can't find anybody to rework one over here so I'm about to take a spare (but equally worn) one to my brothers machine shop and have a slightly oversize roller made to try and get some of the nearly quarter turn of slack out of it.

My 68 has them...there are 4 eyelet bolts into which the seat belts hook...this is a U.S. model though, may be different

I had two 2-1 headers on mine for quite some time, 1 and 3 on one and 2 and 4 on the other, but ran both pipes out the back between the springs and fender. You got a kind of 2 cylinder sound if you stood to the side but sounded normal from the back. I had 2 mufflers on it so it wasn't very loud but ran fantastic...way more torque than I have now..(I had a 1K head on the 3K too which I think was giving me 10-1...it's now cracked pretty good too),the headers eventually started cracking up too bad and had to go back stock. Can't seem to find a header anywhere in the states any more...3K, 4K, or even 5K all fit the same don't they?

OK...i'm contacting Raybestos to see if they still have a kit for it....RockAutoParts shows the same MC part number for 68, 69 70 models but they only show a rebuild kit on the 70 model which i would think would be the same too...Raybestos part number MK757..

Just got an email from cardone...they can't rebuild it and are sending it back....I guess I'll look for ke20's or mazda's?

Yup...I see em on the hurricane site but I see no way to order any from way over here.I do have a good muffler shop over here though...when I split my last header into two 2:1's they fit me a dual exhaust system(two 1.5 inch pipes into two standard mufflers forward of the diff with the tips peeking out on both sides next to the leaf brackets (and tucked it in there quite nicely) for about $150. I see a lot of you have your KE's lowered so that might be a little tight under there....around here, I found that a lowered car, while it looks good and would handle better on smooth roads is impractical for the condition of a lot of our roads and the number of train crossings. I've watched many a lowrider throwing sparks (and sometimes parts) trying to run with me. :)

They came with the ingenious 2-60 AC system, with the four door sedan upgraded to a 4-60 system.

many thanks...now I have to come up with a new hippie style plate design.. :wasted:

Oh man!...I just came up with that before I learned mine was really a 68....If anyone else draws, I guess they could do something similar pretty easy and I wouldn't complain....It's just permanent marker on a license plate blank. I really like the way it worked out.

thanks

Please kind sirs, may I change the 69 in my name to 68? (I found out my car's true identity, all this time it was living a secret life)

I found my old original and am shipping it off to be rebuilt by 'Cardone'. This way I can keep driving (and hopefully stopping) til it gets back.....about 26 bucks plus my shipping it to them...return shipping included...can't beat that.

I emailed AskToyota with my VIN and they told me my 69 was actually 68, built in July 1968....it was always confusing me that mine didn't match pictures. So....how do you change your name on here? And I'll have to come up with a new plate design.

Thanks for the ideas....I see it listed at a lot of places but out of stock when I try to order it..one place says I can ship it to them and they will ship it back when done, being as it's my only vehicle right now I was hoping to just swap something without a lot of downtime. I have one place to call on Monday...NAPA, (just had a 'DOH!' moment as I was writing this and checked their site) they list it with the correct picture, but it's best to call first and make sure, I have gotten some original style things from them before but they are higher than everyone else too. I'm trying to get her back to, and keep her in, as original order as I can. ('cept for those 12 inch wheels and drum brakes...I'll keep my 13's and discs, and just use the 12's for shows when she's done.)

I can't seem to find a kit or a new master cylinder for my KE10, it seems I saw somewhere another model will bolt straight in? Getting bad pedal drop now and have to keep pumping...all the pads, shoes, calipers, cylinders etc have been renewed.

Hang in there dude, eventually the gremlins get bored and move on to someone else...around here, sometimes we hang little Gremlin Bells under our bikes and cars. Legend has it that the little gremlins that jump on your car while you are driving down the road can't stand high pitched sounds...the tinkling of the bell causes them to stick their fingers in their ears, thus having nothing to grip with, they fall off your car. Problem is...you can't buy your own, it has to be given, and you can't ask someone to give you one.

Well, I guess I'm going to call and see what, if anything, I can do...I would like the title to say '68...might add to the value, and I know which grill to look for now...it never had the original when I bought it, I got one from a '70.