ancullen

Someone else has mentioned to me that they might be Escort/Cortina mounts. And you're description sounds spot on for what's in there. Thanks! :D

:D

Let me start by saying I know pretty much f__k all about K-series motors. HOWEVER, I would assume that if you want to bolt a supercharger on, there is going to be some custom work required, such as an adaptor plate to fit the supercharger to the motor. If this is the case, you may as well get the SC14 supercharger from a 1G-GZE rather than the SC12 from a 4A-GZE, as it will make more boost at lower rpm, meaning more power!

TRD ke70. I'm sure Grimwolge knows that a Miata is an MX5. I think he means that he, like everyone else here, has never heard of Miata/MX5 pistons being used in a 4AGE. As to your description of the Sprinter, remember that the Oz-spec Sprinter was only SOHC, carby-fed, with drums on the rear. However, I'll have to agree with you that the Jap-spec Sprinter was a bit ahead of the pack, though I definitely wouldn't call it 'well ahead of its time'. And plenty of cars are sought after well after their production was stopped. 105-series Alfa, HK-HT-HG Holdens, LC-LJ Toranas, XT-XW-XY Falcons, Datsun 1600's, etc, etc, etc.

Would you be able to post a pic of your AE71's crossmember so I can try and work out if it has the mounts I need? Looking at mine they are like two round metal discs with a rubber in-between. Reply if you need more details (if you can't post a pic with right detail).

Surely it'd be way too much trouble just to get 83.0mm bore. Why not save up and buy 82.0mm forged pistons? There's only about 40cc capacity difference anyway. You're not going to notice it.

Guys, I need help. The engine mounts on my KE55 are absolutely rooted. I checked with the bloke that built the car and he claimed the engine mounts were standard KE55 items, however, when I bought a set and compared them with what was left of what's in there, they were COMPLETELY different. What have you guys used in your 4AGE/4AGZE conversions. I presume that whatever is used in KE30's with this conversion will work for KE55's as well?

Up here there's a group of guys that have 'Team Touge' stickers on their cars. Pretty funny if you've ever seen the roads in the NT, especially around Darwin. FLAT!!!! Very few hills, and the few that we've got are VERY small.

LOL!!! Yeah, the new Hilux doesn't even look mean enough with wheel arch flares. Give me a previous model SR5 anyday (preferably in dark green with beige flares). Mmm, chrome grill and bumper...

4AGTE, not 4AGZE or 4AGTZE. Just in case anyone was unsure.

Well, I decided to attempt to change the CV joints on my Galant myself, with the assistance of a mate and his dad. We finally got the old CV out on one side, and whilst trying to put the new bits together, we couldn't get a circlip to fit in the driveshaft the way it was meant to. So the father, who knows tonnes about cars (just not anything that's not Holden), suggested he grab his Dremel and make the slot for the circlip slightly bigger. He did so, we put it all back together, leaving the other side's CV for another day, and away I went. Until 50km later when the driveshaft snapped at the point where we'd machined it. It cost me $800 for the new shaft (plus labour). Recently when I changed the CV on the other side (which I was going to do originally, but the second CV I bought had to be used on the new driveshaft), I bought a complete assembly from CBC Bearings. This included the inner & outer CV's as well as the driveshaft in-between. It cost me $160!!! And that was for the side with the longer driveshaft!!! I got ripped off BIG TIME previously!!! (It must have been a Mitsubishi-genuine driveshaft)

:D

New Hiluxes look like Corollas??? What the!?! However, contrary to what my workmates think, I think the new Hilux looks alright (but not quite as good as the superceded model). Mmm, 4 litre V6 RWD Hilux. If only they weren't so heavy. :sad:

First I find out he was in the Hitler's Youth, now this??? :D

Did you know that Dremel doesn't do good things to drive shafts??? I found out and it only cost me $800 to do so (about 18 months back).

And before anyone else can comment, AE86's come in Panda, KE55's come in Giraffe. :D

Yes, finally a picture of Lola. Oh yeah, and me looking like a dag in the driver's seat.

Nick, please tell me that you're going to break that engine list down into engine families (eg. A-series, S-series, K-series, etc). It's fairly hard to read at the moment. Of course, I do realise that you are just beginning to work the thing out, I'm just making a suggestion. I'd suggest the same for the Toyota models when you get around to it.

Replacing a 45hp 1.3 with a 114hp 1.8 will obviously make the car go quicker, I agree. But the merits of a 7A-FE vs. a 4A-GE are obviously limited. However I agree that the extra capacity does offer extra potential. As to my research skills, I credit it to a LARGE collection of car magazines and too much time to spare to read and memorise the details.

You've got to be friggin' kidding. Either you're converting the 2JZ-GTE to FWD, or you're converting the AE101 to RWD. Either way it's a complete waste of money. The only good things AE101's are for either is ripping the 4AGZE or 4AGE 20v's out of, or using as shopping trolleys. Who in their right mind would bother going to the effort of trying to make them good???

Interesting theory... But I'll try and have a go at disproving it. In my copy of Which Car magazine (September/October 1998 issue), at the back there is a list of specifications for vehicles on the Australian market. Included in this listing are the 1.6L and 1.8L Corollas (not sure if AE102 or AE112, doesn't matter anyway). The Corolla CSi with the 78kW, 135Nm 4A-FE motor and 5-speed manual tranny, weighing in at 1025kg did 0-100 in 10.8 seconds. The Corolla Seca RV with the 85kW, 155Nm 7A-FE motor and 5-speed manual tranny, weighing in at 1090kg did 0-100 in 10.7 seconds. So it has been established that a slightly heavier car with the 7A-FE will beat a car with the same gear ratios and a 4A-FE. HOWEVER, the 4A-GE motor makes 88 or 100kW depending on variant, with about the same torque as the 7A-FE, so all other factors being equal, the 4A-GE should beat the 7A-FE. A 4A-GE vs. a 7A-GE however, the result should go to the 7A-GE for the extra torque and extra horsepower. Sorry Jamie, I agree with you the rest of the time but I have to disagree on this. However, I do agree that the extra capacity of the 7A motor, combined with the extra power ability of the GE head should do well.

Correction. AE101 4AGZE $1,200. Halfcuts available from about $2850. Couldn't find a price for any engine packs (engine with ECU & ancilliaries).

It would be far cheaper and WAY easier to just buy a 4AGZE (about $950). At this price you'll still need to buy a computer & ancilliaries, or you could just buy an AE92 or AE101 4AGZE half-cut (not sure of price).

Due to gearbox issues, I will not be racing this Sunday. And due to other commitments (engagement party), I won't be able to go and watch either. See you all next times.

The main reason people don't bother with 7A-GE 20v's is because due to the much longer stroke of the 7A motor, it doesn't like revving nearly as much as the 4A does. The 20v needs high revs if you want to keep the quad-throttles. Otherwise, you could use the 20v head, but revert to a single or dual-throttles which can have better low rpm torque and power.