coln72

This ony really applies with coil sprung cars running a panhard rod to locate the axel. When you lower the car the diff gets pushed across. KE20's don't have this issue. And the KE20 we had issues with was standard height.

Does the tailshaft turn???? Could be the diff.

Why do you need a booster on a KE20?????

I did this, but had the luxury of a factory twin manifold. Just linked up the two carbies with a piece of old fule hose clamped onto the throttle shafts. My link If you go half way down you will see pics of what I did.

awwwww cute

Ummmmm, all k motors have alloy heads........ :blinks:

Again, why????? Unless you are going to shove some serious boost down its throat, quality cast pistons shouls be sufficient.

Why not look at a 7K??????? 1.8L of goodness :) and a fair bit lighter than the 2T boat anchor

and one of the best contraceptives you will ever see ;) Seriously congrats guys. Take the time to enjoy bubs, they grow up sooooo fast.

Be more worried about being defected for the front tyre...... :hmm:

Tried the refilling of the struts with thicker oil. Worked but you need to use hydrolic oil not old sump oil...... Chewed the seals out in no time :blinks: Knowo a guy who fitted his struts with grease nipples and pumped some bearing grease into them, but that was only an Anglia.

It was solid mounted to the radius rods. Two mounts on each. It wasnt attatched to the body at all, like the standard bar is. It was only thin but made a hell of a difference.

I've seen this issue with a KE20. Tried fitting my 225's under one and they fitted fine one side but the other was and inch or so outside of the guard. Dunno why, it just was.

Probably locked up your rears and it followed the camber of the road.

Yeah, thats where it lined up. Worked well. It was solid mounted - no rubbers at all.

Dunno. All I can say is that it was not 808 as a cousin got it for his and it wasnt even close. It bolted up to the radius rods with a little bit of effort and sat below the standard bar. Later went to a bigger single bar and a ke55 rear and it wasnt even close to when I was running the twin front bars.

Selby's used to do a kit for KE30's. If you want to stop body roll, stiffen up the front. Ran the std front bar with an additional bar from a Mazda under that. Basically limited body roll to a cm or so. This was without a rear bar.

You will be quicker without one in my opinion. All the rear bar does is lift the inside rear wheel off the ground in slow (and not so slow ;) ) corners.

Use the above or double up with two gaskets sandwiched together with a little silicon between them. Another trick is to run a bead of silicon around the openings and let it go off a little, so it forms a skin on the surface. This helps if there is any uneven surfaces. Also, check the alignment of the extractor ports to the gasket. Had a 202 ant the extractors and the gasket were way out. Some only had 2mm of gasket that was actually being compressed between the head and the extractors if you get what I mean. Used to fail all of the time, the worst after 5min of driving. Ended up having to cut the gasket into 6 pieces and aligning them to each port. Ended up replacing those extractors.

Agree with the above with oil filters. Had a cheap one that we had to remove with a hammer and chisel!

Dunno, only ran standard shocks in mine as I wantd it soft for traction in dirt. Easy to look up a cataloge to see if KE20 and KE35 have the same part numbers

Had 13x6 (don't know what offset) fitted with 225/60/13's under the rear of my ke35. Had no scrubbing at all and it was about 2cm off the bump stops. The rear lip was rolled. The front was fitted with 185's and the tread was just inside the guard. The sidewall bulge wasnt though...

stuck needle and seat???? Give the top of the carby a whack with the handle of a screw driver. Or swap 2 and 3 plug leads, remove aircleaner, hold foot flat and pump the key for a few revs. Should backfire up through the carby and remove any shit that may be in it.

don't know if thay are shorter, but shocks from a Commodore wagon will fit into KE30's. Also HK Monaro fit as well :) Also, where are your tyres rubbing? Top, outside or inside. If it is inside or outside, you may need to change your wheels or mod the guards (ie. remove the lip on the edge of the guard). If it is the top, you may need to look at a lower profile tyre if you want to lower it.

don't laugh, but I did that to repair the spare wheel well and the subframe on my 20. Just tipped it onto its side onto a couple of old tyres.