coln72

Find a car club, join. Get a CAMS 2NS or 2S licence. Look at rule book, look at car and see what it needs and what you can get rid of. Make car suit rules. Read club calender and enter next event. Have fun ;) Seriously, start with motorkhanas. Slow but great at learning car control.

Yeah, I know. But this ones still going (sorta as the car is of the road for a rebuild) and has been in the car as long as I can remember. And I'm close to 40!!!!!!!!!!!

The BLCC is running their Winter Classic Rally again soon (this weekend????) and they are offering cheap entry to do the driving tests only - no navigation :) For those of you in Ballarat, Victoria Park is being used for a driving test. Those more senior amonst us might remember when it was used for the Begonia Rally. Looked lots of fun back then.

Ditto to that, but I aint 60 yet........ Sounds like you guys are having a lot of fun. Just be careful with that locker. Hit the power while you are understeering and you WILL hit what is in front of you, unless you are REALLY confident you have enough power to break traction. There are ways to help this (camber, toe out, castor) but I am not familiar with Coronas, so I can't help you.

Have a look at the pics in this thread for ideas My link

Agree with the above. Know a guy who killed a 9 inch behind a warm 351. Also know of an opel 4 speed (you older guys will know of it) that outlasted 3 big cammed 202's in a daily driven FX Its how you treat them.

mmmmmmmmm buying and wrecking all those KE20/25's over the years. Used to buy them for less than $100, get the diffs or whatever I needed and take the rest to the scrapmetal yard..... swapping my worked KE35 for a Holden Ute (wasnt so bad, HZ less than 60k on the clock, with all original paperwork including sales receipt) but not buying the KE35 back when it popped up in a yard for $1200 less than I got for it a fortnight later..... old man and his brothers back in the day decided to lower on of their early Holdens. Measured it up, put bolcks of wood under the rails and broke out the oxy. Heated the springs so it dropped onto the blocks. All good till they backed it out of the drive and the springs collapsed till it was on the stops......... Stupidest thing was selling my KE20. Cried when that one was towed away :sob: Was my youth disappearing.

Try motorbicycling or motoredbikes for information (don't know if these have been posted). For electric assisted bikes look at endless sphere electric bikes. Some very smart people on that forum. For some more technical information try WILS There are a lot of articles and papers on recumbent design and a forum as well.

exactly what we do. Motor is mounted to a fram that is able to tilt. Motor has a shaft attatched to the crank on end and a pillow block bearing the other. On this shaft is a skate board wheel that contacts the tyre. Hit a lever, drop the motor down, away you go

As someone that has built a three wheeler from scratch using both pedals and a little Honda weedeater motor, you will easily pull 60km/h, with the right gearing probably more. An older one would pull 80km/h with a bigger engine. We run a 73 tooth chain ring on the pedal (normal road bike is around 40ish) down to a 10 or 11 tooth gear at the wheel, so it is geared up, but it only has a 20" rear tyre. With a 35cc motor it was doing 53km/h - measure by radar - half way down the main straight and still accelerating. This year a 50cc Honda is being bolted on for a bit more go :evil: Sucks the the track is limited to 60km/h.... All this is for a 24hour race where we are given 3 litres of fuel to use. You run out, you are either pedaling or stopped. Came first in our class last year and covered 795km. Still had a litre of fuel left too :notimp: As for electric, check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKAMus3oSdw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL Glad we weren't racing that one................

you may also end up with one of the gearbox mounting holes being half a hole out. Found that out when using an early/late combination. Nothing that couldnt be rectified with a drill.

So am I :(

If you are only insured for market value, that is all you will get. Yes it sucks but that is the way it works........ Maybe you can negotiate to get the shell back off the insurace company if they do write it off, as it would only be worth scrap value to them any way. Not as if a hundred wreckers will be fighting over a KE11 at an auction :)

A bit off topic, but have you condidered running a lighter weight oil in the engine, gearbox and diff to reduce the drag on these components. I have read reports of a dealer using a higher viscosity oil at the first service than was recommended and the customers were complaining about the vehicles performance being worse. You should be able to get away with "thinner" oil in the gearbox. My old man ran a 50/50 mix of gearbox oil and ATF in his Aussie four speed with no reliability issues for years.

Remember a couple of guys back when I was playing with the TCCV. One cut up a KE10 so it was basically a shell with a motor. No panels forward of the firewall, no doors and no panels behind the c pillar. The thing was too light. It just couldnt get traction and ended up being ballasted up. Another was a KE20 (I think) that was meant to be lightened down to 600kg or so by removing as much as possible and what couldnt be removed was replaced with lighter materials. He spent a weekend making aluminium bumper brackets to save sweet &^%$% all but as has been said it all adds up. If you can afford it, lighten everything that rotates, as this will allow the car to accelerate faster - think lightened flywheel. Have a read of some of the Carol Smith books for some ideas on how effective weight reduction can be.

A custom pearl paint job for the cost of a slab :) and the basic paint (approx. $300). This also included repairs after a crash. Gotta love family :dance:

don't know if KE70s have them, but earlier models have a couple of threaded holes in the drum which you can insert a couple of bolts into (8mm????) and do them up evenly forcing the drum off.

As I said, I wasnt sure. Just that the two different types were reffered to as the lond nose and the short nose. Learn something new all the time :blush:

Not 100% but I think the two bonnets are different lengths, so you will need both guards to match up with the bonnet.

^^^^^^^ That will help alot. Ran that tubing from the aircleaner down to the extractors. Didnt eliminate the issue, but made it LOTS better.

Bonnet still clean, werent trying hard enough :P

My old 5k with 3KB carbies would ice up in the middle of summer on the freeway!!!!!!!

Put a switch in the system and when it slips to bad flick the alternator off. Not charging, so no load, and shouldnt slip. Just remember to reactivate the alternator though......... Was going to do the above to my club car but it was specifically banned in the rules :( Hey if you are handy with electronics maybe you could set up something to do this automatically.....

mmmm, big stereo. Does the belt slip if you have the stereo turned off????? I ask that as when I was running 100W high beam globes in the headlights and 100W driving lights on my Rolla, the load from the alternator used to slow the motor down a few hundred revs. An amp would be drawing a lot of current so it might be adding to your issues. For grip you should be running bigger alternator pulley anyway to get more belt wrap, and will slow your alterantor down so it doesnt drag as much power to turn it.

Punch and hammer or nut in vice and hit the stub axle with a soft faced hammer.