coln72

Still don't know why people bother.......

Early RX7's have the same stud pattern as KE20 Corollas, so I assume that KE10 would be the same.

There are only three true sports in this world; Rock Climbing, Bull Fighting and Motorsport. The rest are mere games. Ernest Hemmingway

but it is pressurised so its boiling point will be higher. Have you checked the accuracy of the guage????? Grap a kitchen thermometer, the one with the metal spike, and put it in the radiator before you start the car. Let it idle and keep checking if the two read the same.

Never seen one, but that doesnt mean they didnt exist. Most people run a VH40 remote booster if they feel the need for one. Personally, never bothered with one.

Anyone seen exactly the same set up in a recent Zoom Magazine except it is white and still set up to look like a stocker. Would give more details but have lent it to a mate :(

Look for a 5k gear reduction starter. Should easily cranked my high compression 5k. Added bonus is that it is a smaller starter, so more clearance for exhausts. Could remove it without touching the extractors.

Yep Carters shit all over the Holley stuff. Holley have been living off their reputation for years.

Would it be an advantage to try and source a panel van diff - 4.5:1 - and run in third?

Interesting - fitted a Holley Red pump to my KE3 years agao and only lasted a week before I went back to the Facet. The Holley wouldnt self prime, so I was continually having to prime the bastard on the side of the road. Used a Facet pump for close to 7 or 8 years with out an issue - just wired to the ignition switch on the roady and also through a dash mounted switch on the racer so it could be operated with out the ignition to get fuel pressure before starting. The racers pump was also wired up through the oil pressure switch so if the motor stopped, the fuel pump would stop as soon as the oil pressure dropped.

Was gonna say that too. Ran a Facet on a couple of Rollas and yes they are NOISY. If you rubber mount them it aint so bad though. Used to push enough fuel to keep a 5k running 3kb carbies happy at 8000rpm.

The one on the KE35 used to vibrate the whole car, to the point where someone tried to drive off in it with the motor off.... It was mounted in front of the radiator which had to be moved back a couple of inches for it to fit. The motor on that thing was huge.

If you want cheap mods, try to remove everything that the engine drives. Things like the engine fan and fuel pump can be replaced with electric versions to remove the load they place on the engine. Up your timing from the factory settings, drill holes in the aircleaner housing or create a duct so it draws cooler air from outside of the engine bay. Port match the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the head and if you have the cash get the head skimmed to up the compression. Individually they may not make much of a difference but if you add up a lot of little things...... Something people overlook is removing weight. If you make the car lighter, you will go quicker :yes: so get all of the rubbish out of the back seat and go crazy with a hole saw in areas that can not be seen easily and are not structural to the car.

Measure up your radiator. Go to wreckers and find something that will fit. May need to make up a custom mount depending on the design of the fan. Had on on my KE35 that was designed for a much bigger motor. The old man had used it to cool his 307 Chev. When it kicked in you could watch the temp guage drop. Ran a much smaller one on my KE20, from a Laser or something similar. Used to cool the 5k ok even without the engine fan.

I thought I was doing well when I swapped my KE35 for a HZ ute with 60000km on it :) Take the guys money and run

You said that to her and you can still type!!!!!! :o

Another thumbs up for Wade - ran a Wade gind in my 5k and was rapt in it. Crow Cams were another cam grinder based in Melbourne.

not much more than the GT behind :hmm:

Dunno what models they were, but Corolla's popped up during the Australian Touring Car Championship results during the early to mid 70's. These would be interesting cars as it was run under Improved Production rules (for those of you to young to remember, google super falcon) which allowed a lot more freedoms. After about 1975 Corollas disappeared from the results only to return in 1980/81. From memory, this was a TE35(?) as it had the American front panels. If I could find my Bathurst books, I could look that up too. Here is one KE20 the I found that ran a Bathurst

Ummm, why bother. A standard 5K bottom end will handle 8000rpm (plus at times :o ) without complaining. Wasn't there something about using Chev V8 rod bolts at some stage???

Yet I never had an issue with them. Go figure....... Actually used to break the bottom of the shock (Monroe GT) off before fitting the air shocks which were sitting in the old mans shed. They were originally off his HK Monaro and they did years in that car without any mount issues either.

Used to have a set of air shocks fitted to my KE35. Used to be able to lift the rear up to normal ride height when I was towing the camper.

Nooooooooo!!!!!! A 5K will put a much bigger smile on your face. Just get the 5K cam reground to whatever specs you want. Just tell the engine builder or cam company what you want from your motor and they will find you the most suitable grind. Thats what I did and it worked a charm. No need to change to solids or any of that crap. From memory I was running a Wade grind, 169 was the code, I think.

Drift button???? Why not just unscrew the knob from the end of the lever. Works in a KE20/30 to disable the handbrake ratchet and when you have finished you just screw it back in and everything works again.

Wonder how that conversion would go in PRC rallying. From memory, you have to run the standard block but no idea on whether the head has to be stock..... No offence, that motor needs to be in a KE10 or KE20......