coln72

Just one question? How big are the rear tyres are you running? If they scrape now, I think the problem will be bigger if you lower it. Had up to 205/13's under my ke20 without scrapping and it was running lowered and softened leaf packs. I guess I wasnt carrying any passesgers though..

If you drive like a tool and get pulled over and inspected then you know who to blame...... Drive with your head, the police will be much more understanding about any mods

Why does everyone want to have rock hard rear springs........ The job of the springs is to keep the tyres on the ground. Too hard and this wont happen and you will end up single spinning to a stop in any tightish corner...... If you must. Take your leaf packs to a specialist, get the main leaf reset lower and get them to add another leaf to the pack. Yes it will be lower, it will be harder but get used to one wheel spinning whn coming out of corners.

Agree with the above. Anyway being such an old car, parts are so hard to find......... ;)

KE30 spring mounts are wider apart from memory.

don't know if they would fit in a KE10 housing, but from what I remember from my metalurgy degree, I'd doubt you would get enough heat into it to do any significant structural change to the axel to mak it brittle unless you got it red hot and stuck it into cold water......

3kB twins for the win. Worked great on my 5k

Used to have one that I picked up for $25 :dance: You need to swap a couple of wires from memory in the plug that goes to the loom. Details here clicky

Towed a camper trailer (6x4 with a fold out tent on it) with no issues with my KE35. Towed interstate etc easily. But I was running a high comp 5k and was running air adjustable shocks though.

Go for it. Just have a another crossmember on hand in case you get it wrong :bash: Take note of the inside front wheel, the outside front wheel and the amount of body roll to get an indication of the camber I was running.

KE35 manual had a 4.3:1

Feel for you mate. Hate it when people do that shit. Like the story locally though. A local bikey had his place done over. Lost cash, jewlery ect. and his BROS MC ring. Well the club found the person who robbed his place....... Lets put it this way, everything that was taken was replaced :wink: Someone tried to do that to an ex gf's KE20. Got to the lock nut and gave up. Still left the rest of the nuts loose. She notices something felt funny on the freeway and found that 3 nuts were missing. Still f@#cked the rim though.

OK, I have done this in the past, but it was a competition only car. The LCA's can be moved out by 25mm if you are prepared to go up a bit as well. This will change your front roll centre. Whether this is benificial to you, or you care, I don't know. Now, I felt this was benificial in my circumstances. Did not notice any bump steer or anything else ugly. Still had plenty of meat in the crossmember and if it was gonna tear out, I would of got it to do so :rolls: In my case, it handled a lot better, with much reduced understeer (was running a locker) and much more comfortable to drive. For a pic of what I did click here

Loved the old days when 225/60 13's were easy to get hold of....... They bagged up nice on a 6" rim.

There used to be a couple of KE10/15's that ran in the street car class at Mallala SA. Dunno what specs but it might be a lead to track down for information. Bob Morris was the other driver. KE10's won their class in '68 amd '69. As it was run under series production rules, I'd doubt if it was dry sumped and uprighted but I could be wrong as some strange things got allowed back then..... :hmm:

Dunno, guess the organisors want to look green, so they are forcing us to run it eitherthis year or next. Even making electric powered teams jump onto a heap of pedal generators to put back what they use to charge there batteries back into the grid..... At least they can use mains power now, previously that was banned so they had to use a heap of solar panels....

Thats the risk, what do you leave and hope cuase I have done that in the past and it has come a long and ripped me a new one :bash:

Unfortunately we don't have a choice. We are looking to build a new vehicle this year for a class that has just been introduced and we have to run E85. At least they give us 5 litres instead of the 3 we get currently.... Need to do some testing I guess as all of our fuel lines are plastic :| and we are running a diaphram carby not a float type carby, so the float is not an issue but I am thinking the diaphram might be........ :hmm: If I go hunting, I am sure I could dig up some carbies off bigger Honda to mix and match something that works. Guess I will be able to up the compressipon though :jamie:

From memory, it was a Wade 169 grind. can't give you the specs anymore as I lost the timing sheet but they would of been posted on here in the past. It was a reasonable cam, no waiting for it to come on but with the ability to rev out. Could of gone bigger but then it would not of suited the type of motorsports I was doing where I needed instant response.Found specs from Wade's site lobe lift In .269 Ex .268 timing ad open/close In 41-70 Ex 75-36 duration @ 0.050 218 valve lift .395 lobe separation 109

G'day all, Just thought I'd post here a question that I have. I know all you knowledgable and not so knowlegable people will have an answer. As some of you may know i am involved in building and running Energy Efficient Vehicles in a 24hr event (795km on 2 litres of fuel last year). Now that E85 is available, any new vehicle built must run on the stuff this year and every vehicle has to next year. I'd like to get the jump on everyone else so I want to start testing the stuff to see; a. if a 35cc Honda will run on the stuff b. how much more I am expected to use c. what I have to change to stop it melting things. So if anyone has played with the stuff in small motors, could you give me any pointers. Am about to hit google, but I find much of it B.S. :hmm:

If you want to convert to solids then go for it, but in my opinion and experience it will be a WOFTM. My club car ran a 5k with the usual stuff done and would regulary run 7500rpm plus. This was on the standard lifters and springs. You may be unlucky and get into coil bind with your cam when you select one and will need those fancy dual springs, but extra stiffness will cost you power due to greater friction.

:y: :y: :y: for that.

That is one thing that should be mandatory for all road users is a decent advanced driving course. Not just P platers but for EVERYONE every 5 years or so or everytime you replace your car, what ever is soonest. Having done a couple when I was younger really woke me up to what I could and could not do in a car. Shit how hard can it be to stop a car from 60km/h. VERY if you wanted to avoid killing cones. It is a chance for a proffessional person to analyse your driving and vehicle and offer advice on how to improve both. On the advice of the instructor I changed my seating position in te car and looked at the drivers seat. Found out that some nufty earlier on had the seat apart and forgot to refit the washers to the bolts holding the seat back to the base and the bolts were being pulled through the frame. Looked perfect from the outside.........

Well first up, when I was on my P's, I had moments when I drove like a tool but it was very rarely on busy roads. It was mainly on bush tracks where the speeds were low and if I stuffed up it was only my car that got damaged. But I did have mates that didnt have the same respect for others and got in trouble for it. The thing that slowed me down was getting involved in motorsport, initially indoor kart competitions and later with the TCCA and the Ballarat Car Club. And, yep Ballarat has changed over the years. Been nearly 10 years since I left and I don't like going back as the vibe of the place gives me the shits. Used to be fun laping the Rolla and shutting down the Torana/Commodore drivers from the lights but we never exceeded 60kmh so the cops left us alone. Everyone seemed to have brains and if someone acted like a tosser, the "group" would put them back in line quickly as it brought the heat down on everyone.

Alloy welding young man and if its a decent shop they should be able to spot face the under the bolt heads to the right thickness. Anyway, what happened to using old nails ect as spacers....... you younguns have no imagination :rolls: