son of stig

Are you using the 5k alternator or the original ke20 one? KE20s have an external regulator (ie not on the alternator, generally on the engine bay sidewall) while later models have an inbuilt regulator. Its not hard to change between the two, but a couple of wires have to be changed, as mentioned here: CLICK HERE

May be of interest to some.. related news story There was a pic on p5 of the Advertiser (Adelaide) last thursday the 1st July, can't find it on the net but if anyones interested i can put a scan up later.

my only other train of thought toward carbs is in the future when it hits the track.. I'm guessing that having the efi could put it out of some potentially competitive classes? seems to be a pretty well done package all round and certainly has potential from what little driving ive done of it!

Yep sounds like wacking the F7c on might be the best option for now.. i dare say ill end up trying a few setups, but thats no doubt a good place to start.

Appreciate the responses, thats pretty much exactly the sort of stuff i wanted to hear. Just a few more cars to get through and that little puppy will be at the top of the list :yes: I do have a spare haltech F7c but thatd be fuel only, ill see what i can come up with. Is the person that originally worked this old girl on Rollaclub? Id love to know some of the specs and history!

Oh and its running a standard computer.. i assume this offers very little scope for adjustment, are these setups worth putting an aftermarket computer on? Ive not had a close look but the only tuning thing i noticed was at the air flow meter (bottom left of the pic). Is that all?

What do people think is a better/more powerful/more tunable setup for a worked 5K? The EFI setup for K series motors or twin carbs? If twin carbs, are Aisans up to the job or is it really worth the extra for webers? Currently have the EFI setup going but its having warmup / idle issues possibly due to the cam, and i can't help but wonder if it would all just be easier with carbs... Any help / experience / advice appreciated, Cheers ;)

datsun 260z mags certainly do, ive put them on all sorts of old corollas including 55.

from memory, exhaust side, at the gearbox end of the block on a flat pad (possibly covered in grime), running vertically, big 4A followed by 7 smaller numbers.

Try superpro bushes http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/superpro.html interestingly, the whiteline sway bar i got for the front of my 55 is thinner diameter than standard, but does a much better job and comes with bushes to suit.

Aside from the points gap, your first post says you have no spark from the coil? Is this rectified now? Forgive me if I'm on the wrong train of thought here, but i don't think replacing all those things will solve the spark at the coil? That would more likely be the coil itself or the wiring to it?

Those wheels on the 20... best thing ive ever seen. We should put all four on once i put the rims back together :thumbsup:

KE20-25 ones are the same length and gearbox outputs are the same (though as above, auto and manual are different) and also came with banjo or salisbury rear ends, so could be used. Pretty sure they are not as beefy though.

supposedly Suzuki Swift GTi seats are a straight bolt-in

I'm with Jason, Brocky's Energy Polariser in the old Director takes the cake for me. He stood so strongly by it... Although he had apparently been spending time in Nimbin around the time of its conception? I'd love to see someone do a thorough study of the effects of one!

unless you like your wallet being empty, id recommend leaving it non turbo carby.. everything is so much more simple and reliable! if you really want to do it though, id also agree that a 13BT half cut would be the best option, mated to an aftermarker computer.

not sure but ive had a favorite steering wheel/boss that ive put on a ke20, 25, 30, 35, 55, and 70, and the same one fit all.

hey I'm not a forker either... like i say, i just made up one out of a few old ones. but doesnt change the fact that the fastest and easiest way to solve many such problems will be forking :P

Go the rotary if you want more power, but expect a lot more screwing around ($$$) to get it in. Go the 4AGE if you want nice controllable fun, with a relatively simple (less $$$) install and continued ease of use.

Sure, you can always find a $500 bargain, and it might be the best example you will ever come across. But you can't expect that to be a standard. Ive had plenty of free or under $500 cars, some worth much more, and some much less. But then I paid $1400 for a bog stock standard 55 coupe about 4 years ago, and thought that i should have paid more. Considering the one owner bought it new when he was aged 70, and only put 110,000 well maintained, loving, garaged kilometres on it. $3k does sound like too much for a bad example, but a car is only ever worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

I found two different types of standard exhausts when i was putting my ke20 together, between AMI and Jap models. Both had single inlets from headers (i think the twin inlets started in the ke3x onward?) but the mounts to the body were different, and the flange between the front pipe (from headers) and rear section were too. The Jap model has an actual 2 bolt flange, the AMI model was just 2 pipes pressed over each other with a clamp. Therefore the mounts on the body are different between the aussie/jap model too. That said though, I ended up putting a jap standard system together for my aussie ke20 by swapping a few bits (no welding required). And also a half jap/ half aussie system onto a Jap KE25. Or even better, just fork out a bit for a new one :jamie:

and now you will even be able to see where you are going at night when the foot is down...

Nice Rolla mate, it looks exactly like my KE55 when i bought it, and that too had only one owner (bought new when he was 70!), icy air conditioning, and roughly 100k on the dial. Personally id say do absolutely nothing to it other than a manual conversion. The biggest regret that ive had with mine is modifying an immaculate classic! Its now running a 4age, big brakes, and a lot of suspension work. don't get me wrong, its freakin awesome, but i wish id done it to an already molested shell and kept the minta as a backup daily. Of course its completely up to you.. all the best with it! The search function doesnt always bring up what you want, but believe me, everything you need to know is on this site somewhere!

sweet, cheers. makes sense. as tempting as the upgrades are, I'm trying to keep the motor as standard as possible for now. i keep forgetting my dailys are dailys, don't want to end up with another modified project in the shed!

So who wants to explain to me why it is beneficial to put a 3k head on a 4k like the motor ive just put in? I assume it would raise compression a bit? I can't really tell much noticable difference between it and the standard 4k that id driven about 30,000km, other than the usable power drops off about 1000rpm higher. Still doesnt rev like the standard 3K's ive driven though.