son of stig

haha yeah ive been to a few of the rotor bday cruises with my old pearl white 7 (R-FLEX-7), always a good day. Been meaning to get the racecar out to one for about 3 years now. one day...

the ke25 will be reassembled using the ke20 bits and given to a mate (who has already prepaid for it haha) Yeah theres a widebody RX7 and Datto 260z in the background

With the 5 speed being from a KE70, the gear shifter was a little further back Enter the persuaders... It was a quiet night and about 2am at this point, and for about 2 seconds my conscience though of how the noise would have swept the valley and woken up some livestock, but it had to be done to progress. A loud 15 seconds or so later it was spacious enough Covered the gap with the plate from the KE25, and put all the interior back together with the better carpet, seats, and dash. Had to swap the speedo cable with the dash as it screwed in on the ke25, and clipped in with a different size end on the ke20. Also had to swap 4 of the wires on the dash cluster plug as they went to different lights/gauges on the different dashes. I wrote down somewhere which ones to swap if anyone runs into that problem in the future Put all the radiator and front end back together, fired it up, drove it home and went to bed!

Assorted bits to put back in Swapped over a few things like engine mounts and carby and shoved it all back in Back in place with most stuff reconnected For some reason the original exhaust on the (AMI) ke20 mounted differently to all the other (jap) ke2x's ive got parts from. So i just swapped the mounts and with a bit of fiddling under the car with arms and legs in all direction, got it all hooked up. The one in the middle is the aussie ke20 one, the middle doesnt have a flange, its just pressed one side over the other

Started with the KE25 incase i had to abort for some unforseen reason and go home in the KE20. Disconnected and removed all the obvious stuff; radiator, hoses, wires, tailshaft, gearbox crossmember, exhaust etc. Also took off the centre of the rad support panel and brace to make a bit more room. On the interior side, took out the seats, carpet, seatbelts, dash, and gear shifter From there it was pretty easy to pull out the motor and box, though i forgot to buy chain on my way up to lift it with, so i busted out a hefty tow strap. I was by myself which made it a little trickier, wasnt too hard but at one point it was quite uncomfortable as i had to lift the gearbox end and push the engine crane back with my legs. I think it was just after this point that i washed my hands, had a cup of tea and a cigarette, and braced to do it all again to the white ke20. Removal stage complete. Time for another tea and smoke, and get set to put the 20 back together.

Sooo i randomly decided to buy a KE25 about 6 weeks ago, basically to put a few good bits from it into the 20, and then put it the ke25 back together with spares and give to a mate who needs a car. Bits i figured id swap into the 20 were: -supposedly rebuilt 4k with a 3k head on it (though I'm not sure how to verify that) mated to 5 speed from ke70 (the motor in the ke20 was starting to blow a little smoke, so why not?) -newish exhaust, not loud, standard headers, but all sealed unlike my tractor spec ke20 -new carpet -radiator -front seats -dash cluster (with trip meter) and a few other little bits and pieces. everything else i decided was already better on the ke20. So i waited till i had a night free, lined them up in my shed, and locked the door until it was done.

bad luck mate, hope all your body parts are where they are meant to be. rollcage? hope you get it fixed up and back out there soon!

the bushes literally just pop in and out with the rear leaves. there is 2 half width bushes on each end. i found the best way to get them out was to jab in a flathead screwdriver well into each bush and lever out diagonally. if that makes sense...

ouch for that engine

well if its aussie delivered it should have a borg warner diff (bolts are at the back of the housing), and mine had AMI badges on the exterior, and all the seatbelts. pretty much everything swapped over alright, but you just have to get the complete parts. for instance, when i swapped the borg diff to a banjo, i had to find a tailshaft and suspension mounts to match. had a lot of trouble getting the brake lines all hooked up too, as some of the steel line fittings were different sizes and threads

Ah that sucks dude. You going to give clearing it a go? There can't be THAT much wrong with it...

depends on if they are Jap or Aussie built. I started with an Aussie shell, and found that pretty much all parts around the place are for the jap models. Differences i ran into are Rear axle, tailshaft, steel brake lines, dash cluster, speedo cable, front brakes, exhaust mounts, accelerator cable... and thats just off the top of my head. Seemed that most of the jap ones used the same bits throughout the years though other than the obvious grill/bonnet etc

decided to go this way, all sweet now. it wasnt the tune at all in the end, the vacuum diaphram on the 3k one was rooted.

diff should be a straight swap as long as they are the same type (eg banjo or borg warner). ratios may not be the same though, especially if one is an auto and one is a manual, but thats not a big problem.

Hey all, Ive got a KE20 with a 4k, but running the NipponDenso 3K Dizzy (the taller thinner one with external fine adjustment). Ive just replaced the points, does anyone know if the points gap is the same on the Bosch and ND dizzys (.45mm)? Alternately, if anyone has a KE20 workshop manual handy, could you look up what the gap is meant to be? I only have specs for the Bosch. Cheers!

I'm sure it would look and drive insane in the metal, but in those pictures it looks like it has two ass ends. The ridiculous spoilers at the front remind me of the hideous bonnet spoilers some of the newish model celicas have!

If the relay is still clicking as you turn the key on and off you could try to follow the sound to get a general idea of whether the relay is in the cab or the engine bay, then find some part of the circuit and follow the wires back?

I'm down for that! They just need to have the beads reset and reinflated. ill chuck them on my 20 tonight and take some pics for you.. i seem to recall the front would need spacers but i reckon the rears may just fit. id love to see what the rotorolla would do with 265s on the back!

I know theyre Compomotives, and very close to the TF (pictured here) but the TF has 12 spokes and mine have 16.. 14x9" Fronts, 14x10" Rears. Anyone know more good sites for oldschool rim info?

Rollcage hey? Nice one dude, i think its probably a good idea considering the car. Half or full? Bolt in i assume?

look forward to seeing it mate... 36 hours is quite the long time, i manged to drive solo for 3400kms with car trailer and racecar in tow from adelaide to sydney and return (via melbourne... took a wrong turn!) in just over 34 hours. never again.

Holy moly... that is awesome to the max.

Cheers, I'm pretty happy with how its turned out. Its the first car where i havent gone stupid with mods so its a nice change. And yep no worries with the lights Ryan, i can even get you a set when you ready seeing as work is around the corner. Still can't figure out if i got some ridiculous discount or not tho, so could be about $100.

Name: Paul Car: 1971 KE20 AMI Drivetrain: 4K Manual 4 speed Suspension and brakes: Lowered front springs, extra rear leaf, all new steering joints, superpro bushes, all new standard brakes Wheels and tyres: 14" Performance 5 spokes with Yoko 185/60/14s Interior: Black, seat covers, tacho, stereo, fire extinguisher Body: Fairly straight Other: From a cruddy shell to a sweet daily in a few months

So a couple of months and a total price including purchase of exactly $1704 later, here it is. I'm sure theres lots of little things inbetween, but thats pretty much it in a nutshell. Shes a sweeeeeeeet daily.