son of stig

just saw this haha glad to help. i made the same mistake :D

jack it up, shove like 30 tennis balls between the spring coils, lower it back down by far the most dodgy yet hilarious solution i have witnessed when my housemate did it but yeah id say you need new shocks

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone here has installed a KE3x/5x brake booster/master onto a ke20? Ive seen a couple of KE20s with the big ugly rectangular PBR setup (like KE55), was this a factory instalment on the late models? Curious as to whether the pedal setup or bolt holes in the firewall are different. Any info much appreciated! Cheers, Paul

hot. no doubt about it.

yep lots of the bits are missing from the white one at lonsdale, ive got them :D you don't need a compliance plate to register a car. just go through the 'exemption from the fitting of a compliance plate' process, which is basically a roadworthy. if its been written off it will need a tier 3 inspection too, if you go that way you need reciepts of all replacement parts and labour. anything is doable.

probably be best off trying to find some 17" aftermarket S13 Silvia wheels or something like that

Is that a s2/3 RX7 in the background of the first shot? Whats goin on there?

Whiteline does a heavy duty sway bar for the front. Somewhere between $120-160 from memory. Interestingly it is actually a smaller diameter that the standard one but more rigid. Definately worth the $ from my experience

Theres lots of options, I'm sure everyone could suggest something different. Personally i think for the car that it is, its best to keep it simple and unadjustable (and hence cheaper) In my KE55 (4AGE) ive put corona struts up the front for bigger brakes, with just new gabriel shocks and king springs. Had RX7 S4 camber tops on these struts at first but decided i liked it better without them. Whiteline heavy duty sway bar (which interestingly was thinner diameter than standard, but more rigid) up front tightened it all up, definately worth the $ The rear just has KYB shocks, reset leafs and an extra leaf added. Standard sway bar. Sits at the exact minimum height specified by Transport SA. Hooks really well in the hills, a lot stiffer than standard but still rides well and absorbs bumps. Cost me about $400 all up but i hunt around a fair bit. That said, before i bought decent stuff i just cut the front springs and flipped one leaf in the rear. Made a hell of a difference, cost $0. Even with stuffed shocks all round it nailed corners. Leaned like all buggery, and i actually wore away the writing on the side of the tires (165s) from how much they were rolling, but it never stopped hooking.

i think it looks good with the roof down, would have been insane at the time! so many people talk about (and do) just chopping the roof off a coupe but big ups for actually doing it the right way! good to hear its going to hit the street again

depends how much you really care about the lasting quality. me and my mates prepped and painted our whole bus for about $200, only lightly sanded and using rollers. it looked awesome as a whole, wasnt like a showcar up close but still had a gloss and did the job.. i did my rx7 with a fair bit more prep, and sprayed enamel (regrettably) with a pretty cheap gun and compressor. But it probably didnt cost much more all up than the bus did. Looks more pro up close though.

you can find anything if you look hard enough... i got a set of 14x9s and 14x10s in 4x110 for my widebody series 2 rx7.

R & S series plates are available for any car of any period. So SLO xxx or SLY xxx or RAD xxx are all goers for about $75

ive gone with xt130 corona front struts with new struts and king springs. just have to cut and swap the bottom spring seat with that of a corolla so you can use corolla springs. handles pretty good with a whiteline heavy duty sway bar up front too. rear you could just get some decent shock absorbers and add an extra leaf or get the leafs reset or both.

hey all just a question for those who have played around with the rear axles of ke20s... are the pinion flanges interchangable between the borg and banjo diffs? ive got a borg diff in it atm, but tailshaft for a banjo. also have a banjo rear end in the shed, but not the mounting brackets... so can i just swap the banjo pinion flange over to the borg and save myself looking for the banjo mounts? has anyone tried this before?? any help appreciated! Cheers, Paul

yeah front lights/indicators are the same (other than the round -> square headlights), bumpers can be slightly different, and rear lights can be changed between 35/55 pretty easily, just need to do some rewiring on the connectors in the boot.

yeah i just lined up a ke20 tailshaft next to a ke3x/5x tailshaft on the weekend, and they were pretty much exactly the same length. ke3x one is a fair bit wider though. as long as the yoke lines up with the diff, i don't see a problem!

ive got a set of toolex lever reversible ones. range 10-19mm. you can't get into some tight areas cause of the extra space taken by the ratchet mechanism, but definately a good investment!

i would think you could use the same ignition coil, ive swapped coils around between the older K series motors and a 4AGE for testing electics, and had no problems...

yes it probably means the gearbox is on the way out. very cheap and easy to replace though!

black wheels, no tint just so you know I'm fairly sure fender mirrors (or anywhere other than standard australian market placement) could be defectable as they would no longer comply to ADRs.

that seat is awesome... it looks like a transformer!

fuel cutout solenoid incorrectly wired? (to constant power instead of accessory power?) this is that one wire that comes off the carby with the green clip.

ke30, ke35, and ke55 diffs should all fit. the earlier ones may not have sway bar mounts, and smaller drum brakes, but theyll still bolt up the same

definately no sign of one of those hideous little puippies on any of the manifolds ive got!