Rolliac

I wander how much different a 4k TRD engine manual would be.

You’ll probably get a lot of that hear mate. where pretty sentimental about our ke1x’s. On the other hand as long as you look after it (it’s not a bush basher) and have respect for the old girls heritage I’m fine with it. After all I would love to build a tubbed ke10 drag car like this one.check it out Tuff 4k's are cool too.

Hopefully someone with more sound advice can help. I would think keep the stock control arms. I read a post from one dude that said: “93 ford taurus ball joints fit in the control arm and fit the steering arm”. I’ve also seen a dude on here with what looked like an adapter plate between the stock steering arms and different modal struts. But I can’t find the link. You see the KE1x’s have 3 bolts mounting the strut to the steering arm where as other modals have 2 bolts. I think the end result you want the control arms to be spot on horizontal (consider when choosing spring).

In other posts it's been descussed about the Whiteline sway bar (probably should be put in the FAQ’s). I think all that use them would agree that there a good idea. Costs about $200. Ordered mine through autObarn. The struts and control arms are unique on the ke10 series and can’t be changed with any other modal/make that I’ve heard without cross member mods. So when it comes time for new struts, later modal inserts can be used. Also useful when lowering with ke20 upper spring perches as later modal inserts are sorter (enabling use of shorter captive spring). Here's the link. Replacing front stut inserts on ke1x I just read your other topic. Are you still doing a V6 conversion? I'm not an expert and can't tell you weather these suspension Modifications would be appropriate for you. At a guess you would need stronger springs for the extra weight.

Yes Dude there Certainly is. Check out the Knowledge Base/ FAQ up the top of the page. The Suspension and Breaks section will tell you all you need to now. Don’t forget to ditch the front transverse leaf spring and install a sway bar from Whiteline Automotive. :dance:

Good to see a classic in good hands. I seen and heard of some guys cut a pefictly good car in half and just keep the front for spares. Because they “don’t have room for two”. What a crime.

In the Knowledge Base/FAQ there’s and article called "how to build a tough k motor". In the distributor section SuperJamie talks about ignition timing: “I think a good rule is to set the timing to suit the octane of the fuel. Stock is 8 degrees on 96 RON leaded petrol, so 10 degrees on 98 RON BP Ultimate works pretty well. In the same fashion, you should reduce your timing if you're running 92 RON regular unleaded, maybe to 4 degrees, maybe 6, try it and see.” He also talks about compression: “I wouldn't suggest running much over 10:1 in a K motor. The head design really isn't the best for promoting good combustion, and detonation sucks once it sets in. I run 10.2:1 in my motor, and it get piston shakes quite badly below 2500rpm, but I think that's more to do with my amateur head porting. One of the guys on toyotastarletracing had a 4K he didn't care about anymore, so for a laugh he shaved the head down to 11:1 and slapped it back on. He said it absolutely FLEW but didn't last very long. If you want to push the limits, work out what dynamic compression you're running and keep it below 8.4. A good rule is to take the octane number of the fuel you'll be using, and divide it by 10. BP Ultimate has a RON of 98, so 9.8:1 is pretty ideal compression for an engine running on that. Standard unleaded is 91 RON, which is alot less compression. You can usually get away with deviating 0.2 to 0.3 compression points from this rule, if your head porting and fuel supply is up to scratch.”

Yeah man KE10's are sick but u might wann'a do your research befor going ahead. I don't know if the standard diff will hold up behind a CA18 turbo. There’s no straight swaps and a shortened diff is going to cost ya. Front suspension is unique on these cars. But there is plenty of info in the Knowledge Base/FAQ. You will also find info in there about an easy break conversion. You could also get some ideas from other members rides. I’m not sure if you could get the car engineered but it would be cool if you could. :)

Yeah when i crashed i had no idea why it happend but neither do most young speed demons. I thought I’d drop it back a gear and light em up around a corner. I lit them up all right but lost all steering. Car kept going straight into a poll. So no I won’t make the same mistake again. Am I the only one that made that mistake? What about powering around a slippery corner? I’d rather oversteer than understeer. Any ways I still think there crap and don’t see the point.

When I get home after a drive I could pull in the driveway but I go round the block a couple of times coz I don’t want it to end. Sometimes I like to just admire the car from different angles. Bore workmates to death telling them about her. Make sure her oil level never goes a millimetre under max. Make sure she’s parked in the shade at all times or else I start to panic. Ke10 is the best car ever made.

I’m passionate about hating front wheel drive. What a stupid idea. Why would you? I crashed a front wheel drive car due to understeer. Sure I was young and speeding. But unless you really understand understeer I think there dangerous.

Hay come on fellas no need to get all hostile. Maybe he’s building a dragster or burnout vehicle and doesn’t need good cornering ability. I bet it’ll do good wheel stands.

Yes please! I got some ideas too but don't know how much space where dealing with.

Yeah twin SU's might be the go. Webers would be cool though. Though I suppose performance is the important thing. I used to work at a turbo/ performance joint that loved their Zenith carbs.

I'm on the case. thanks mate

Hay guy's Slant 4K side draft's in a KE1X? The closest I seen look to be 4 moterbike carbs. Which might be cool if you can get them big enough. obviously length is the limiting factor. A striaght inlet track is so appealing

How do you think you'll go for clearance in the g-box tunnel with the t50? I'm interested to know.

Front sway bar that is. Surely your not still using the front transverse leaf spring. Or are you? Very interested to know.

Those door trims are the go! they must be custom. Where did you get the steering wheel boss kit from? I think we're all waiting patiently for the finishing touches of this project. I sure am. I'm going to upgrade my brakes and suspension first. I'm sick of front drum brake performance and body roll. But my car is still on the road.

This car is unlike any other. :hmm: Incredable! Can you tell us what diff and sway bar you have?

Thanks everyone.

:hmm: I did exactly that. I gave up like 3 times but finally got e'm. And laugh I did. My diff is definitely Borg and the center broke in 2 right down the middle. So yeah I was just basically wanting to know if Jap and Borg centers are interchangeable.

O well that settles it. thanks for that.

Hay folks. Does anyone know if Borg Warner and the Jap diff centers are interchangeable? The reason I'm asking is because it says in the FAQ that the KP starlet lsd center fits in the KE diff housing. But is that just the Jap diff? I have a Ke11 Borg that needs a center anyway. But i hear it's 5.7" and the KP starlet is 5.6". So if it does fit (the Borg has 23 spline axles if I count that correctly) would the crownwheel simply swop over? any help appreciated.

I'v seen a few on ebay. phil's rotary's ebay store has them. might get one myself.