Rolliac

Nice ride. soon you'll just need a 4age and it will be perfect.

Is there a limit to how low you can go with the leaf spring still in there? Like my ke10 is so low I want roll center adjusters. (I’m running whiteline sway bar and no leaf spring). Would I be correct in saying the leaf spring acts as a spring and a sway bar? Remember the ke10 coil springs are really thin. So if you take the leaf spring out you’ll need thicker coils. I’m just using cut ke20 coils but there not really stiff enough IMO. Also I have the shorter stroke ke30 strut inserts but my springs still are a long way from captive. I would like to find even shorter stroke strut inserts and cut down the struts like the AE86 and KE70 drift guys do. As for caster and camber you could use adjustable strut tops but you won’t get much adjustment without coilovers because the top spring seat will hit the strut tower.

Do big port and small port 4age heads have the same size inlet valves? If they do, would the air flow be any different between the two heads? Just trying to work out which head/ cam combinations would work best. thanks

So you’re only going to run the stock harmonic balancer. Not an after market crank pulley. Then I’m guessing you can’t run a harmonic balancer and an after market crank pulley like this… T3 Crank Pulleys I see they have double row too I kind of know what a harmonic balancer does but need to do some more research. Don’t even have a workshop manual for the 4age yet so… Yeah this is the balancer I got with the engine. It was not attach but I’m guessing it’s stock Toyota.

Just found this article that’s interesting One pic shows a 4ag crank with a bigger key way milled into the crank for a bigger key. here

Ok just learnt that the key is actually removable :y:. Sounds like it will be all good then. Thanks a lot.

My guess is as good as yours. There looks to be a picture of a snake and the word Cobra on them.

Does anyone know what is involved in fixing this problem? The engine is a small port 4age. I’ve only just brought it and apparently there was a problem with the old harmonic balancer key way having too much clearance. The harmonic balancer I have looks alright but I’m a bit concerned about the key on the actual crank. It looks a bit worse for wear. I haven’t got the new balancer on yet as the key would need to be filed down a little I think as it’s hitting the balancer. It looks kind of bent and worn so I’m thinking it would just get worse until it brakes.

The KE10 already has nice interior. I will be leaving mine original and neat. Don’t even want to cut the dash up for gauges if I can. Only thing that I will change is the seats to something like this.

First thing that comes to mind for me when I look at your car is wheels. Make it look good first that way the car would be worth a lot more anyway. You could go a cool metallic paint job and fashionable wheels Or…. Something like this. (notice the standardish ride hight).

That makes me angry to hear about a cop abusing his authority. I been in a lot of shit and mostly met good cops. I hope you do make a complaint. If this one thinks he can take his miserable life out on someone else because he’s got a badge I hope he gets what he deserves.

I’m looking at buying a ae71 but wont if I can’t change the slant nose to flat nose. This question has probably been answered before but can’t find it. Just starting to dabble into 70’s Thanks.

Black or the same colour as the car. Remember to sand back the letters.

Ok thanks for the replies I think I’ll ring some diff specialists and get a quote. I did notice there were splines on the stud I knocked out and yeah they’re in the hole too. Don’t have a clue what tool they use to make female splines in the stud holes.

I would like to change the stud pattern on the rear of my ke10 to 114.3. Wondering if I could use a bench drill and an accurate ruler or vernier calipers to measure 4x 114.3 and re-drill the axles and fit new studs? I have a spare set I can practice on but is this a big no no for any particular reason? I realize the rim has to sit perfectly flush on the hub so accuracy of the stud holes position and straightness of the studs is of the upmost importance.

Yeah go the Rona’s mate! This one is still in my back yard (soon to be gone). Was a beast in the day. Lowered all round on 18” chrome rims. Did good skids too with the 2000cc engine. Comfy too.

So did you just connect these both to the D+ on the alternator? Thanks heaps for your help. I’m a noob when it comes to electrics.

Thanks a lot for you help. So could I also run the Turn Signal Flasher wire to the D+ terminal or where would you recommend for 12v?

Has anyone changed the alternator in a ke11 from the external to internal regulated type? There is an extra wire going to the regulator compared to other KE’s (I think) which is for the “Turn Signal Flasher” I understand that when changing to internal type reg the Charge Warning Light wire runs straight to the alternator but I don’t know where to put the Turn Signal Flasher wire. Could I just join it to the Charge Warning Light wire and to the alternator?

Ooooooo. Pretty. This is probably not too far off completion. Not at the rate you work anyway. Good on ya mate. So ya can’t put a crappy N/A 12a or 13b in there but you can put a SR20 turbo capable of 400hp!!! That’s a bit silly.

You must be so proud. :hammer: I know the feeling. :y:

Good idea. Please give as many details of the conversion as you can as I want to put a 4age in my ke10 too. have you come across this guys topic: Davros' ke10 4age Also:

This is a vid but it's well worth checking out. nice 16v with the works. Wait till the end to see the flames out the exhaust. 4age at 9500 rpm

YES! whats up with the Ke10 I hope it's being looked after

I’ve dreamt about an 8 second KE10. I hope the pass is on YouTube. Thanks for posting and keep us updated.