Rolliac

overrated! Brakes, suspension, engine, body you’ve covered every thing. Well done.

Good thread man. What’s the plan for the car? Restore it, sell it, I’m guessing this is no drift pig.

Nice work dude. I like the wheels too.

Are they just the standard LCA's

:)

It’s not hard to get the whole diff out. I’d just get it out and tip it on its side. The axle should just fall out.

Apparently silver top rods are beefier. If you really want to wind the boost up, forged rods would be piece of mind I’d think.

So do you know if the cut down axles are re-hardened?

My daily driver has a welded diff. did it myself about 3-4 months ago. My opinion: Horrible for daily driving. It sucks bad in car parks. I feel bad for the poor axles and expect them to snap any time. It is defiantly fun for ripping skids and getting sideways though.

Did they get ke20 and ke30 mixed up? Dumb asses. Good to see mate.

Sad but you get that. It had a good life. Is the engine and diff and all that still ok. If it make’s ya feel better, at least your not the only one: ke15 crash (classic Adelaide)

Good info on the welding Davros. How much to get the diff cut if you don’t mind me asking and who through? I spoke to a joint that said they only use billet axles coz it’s hard to re harden the cut ones. At $3000 I said “not on my budget”.

What about chassis? Original floor or full tube? What’s the goal? 7 seconds?

I use lead replacement for my 3k. Yeah aluminum heads have hardened valve seats but the older seats weren’t made quite as well as the new ones or I so I’ve heard. I don’t think it hurts to use it anyway as is says it can be used in late model cars too. As of your fuel chewing. I’d check for leaks. I found a crack in my fuel line recently.

Wheels are sick. Keep up the good work. I want this car as a magazine centre fold to stick on my wall one day. What’s the goal? 7second 1/4mile? 8’s at least right?

I think your original choice is good. I shore hope you thrash the hell out of your 70 like there meant to be.

Yeah I chopped the shit out of my front springs. I also used ke30 shocks. They have a bit shorter stroke than ke10. Still nowhere near captive springs. Springs are just chopped ke20 not very stiff IMO. I haven’t lowered the back yet. It looks pretty stupid and handled even worse. I’ve also taken out the transverse leaf spring and installed a WhiteLine sway bar. I want to get shorter stroke strut inserts and cut down the strut tube. Or perhaps find a way to use different struts altogether.

Was so happy to see this on Sunday. I was right next to the start line for one of your passes. Even checked out the bay when ya had the hood up. The noise, the launch, the mustard… f*#king awesome.

Do you think it would have a heavy spring rate or something?

I think there ae86 struts & brakes and steering knuckles. I want that adaptor sleeve.

Do you have a web site or thread somewhere? I’m very interested to see a list of your products.

I just used a Gregory’s workshop manual. It’s pretty easy. From memory: you line the rotor button with number 1 on the dizzy, set number 1 piston to TDC on compression stroke. Then install the dizzy. You might have to use a screw driver to turn the oil pump so the rotor is aligned. The manual has pictures and stuff. You can even get one from the library.

Sam Q you are the man. You should make like a package, 20v into Ke70/ae71/ae86. Or do you already have one? I’ll buy it for sure. And optional extras like dizzy relocate and ya coil thingy. LittleRed too you guys have done the hard yards. Making my life easer. Thanks.

12months of nothing! Wow. 2 months of nothing is too much. Anyway I’m feeling ya pain with the build man. Some fellas have a smooth run. Others just can’t get a win. Keep us updated.

I thought my old RT104 (1978) had a T series diff. pretty sure it did anyway. Whatever it was it handled a lot of abuse.