Rolliac

I thought my old RT104 (1978) had a T series diff. pretty sure it did anyway. Whatever it was it handled a lot of abuse.

Best Ke20 grill IMO.

Excellent info guys. Thanks a lot.

Cool. Your not still running standard computer are you?

The pinion shaft has come loose in my diff centre and made contact with the pinion and crown wheel chipping the teeth. The pinion and crown wheel still turn ok so I would like to lock this centre via welding with my arc welder. I have a new diff for the car so don’t care how long the locker lasts. It’s always had a lot of backlash anyway. What I want to know is: • Can I weld the pinion shaft to the differential case? Would I use cast iron rods? • Do I use cast iron rods when welding the side and pinion gears? Locker will be used at the track for sliding practice. Any help would be dandy.

Hope to see this rig at Jambo.

Did this car crash? Check at 0:25sec: It's the same car right?

Thanks mate. The wire comes from the ignition barrel. I’m learning how to use my multi meter. My mate tells me if the wire produces say 12v when ignition is turned on then the wire should connect to the positive side of the coil. Well if I’ve used my multi meter right it produced 11.9v. Don’t know if I trust my mate and certainly don’t trust my multi meter skills. Man I always learn lessons the hard way.

Or anyone for that matter. Coolest KE10 I’ve seen but what’s more interesting is his front end setup. club4ag ke10

Can I use this coil with my electronic ignition? The car is a KE11 and it has electronic ignition. It looks standard but may have been swapped at some stage. All I know is it uses the same rotor button as the Toyota Liteace (5k) Can I just swap the coils over or is there more to it? Excuse the toys in the photo.

Do they both have bolts on the back of the center housing. Perhaps you could just get some slip on spacers.

Hi I just did a dumb thing (I do that a lot). I took me ignition coil off and didn’t take note of where the wires connect. Well it’s just one wire actually. The wire is black with a yellow strip. I believe it goes to the ignition but don’t know where it connects to the coil. Positive, negative or the resistor? the car is a KE11 Any help much appreciated.

you have been busy.

Excellent thanks. I’ll give it a go.

This link might have the info you want. falcon springs

Nice work mate keep us posted. I had the same revelation recently. Suspension first. Engine 2nd. The 4ac still drops skids. Especially when the diff’s locked.

Thanks Yeah I can’t find a way of getting the nozzle out without breaking it. I had a go on a stuffed carb I got but the nozzle just broke. Grrrr. Don’t want this to happen to the carb I’m using. So the issue it’s causing is that the secondary throttle won’t open, coz the actuator get’s vacuum from a hole in the side of the choke which lines up with a hole in the boar. My choke sits too low in the boar and just spins around freely so the holes will never line up. Hence I want to replace it. Driving around with only the primary throttle leaves a lot to be desired.

How can I get the primary choke out of my ASIAN carb? The secondary comes right out when the throttle plate is removed but I think the primary comes out the top when the venturi is removed. Only thing is the accelerator pump jet is in the way. I need to replace the primary choke on my new/ second hand carb because it has been tampered with and doesn’t sit where it should.

I’ve got 3 different K carb’s. One’s from a 4k, one from a later modal 3k (I think) and the one on my ke11. The one on my ke11 has 4 different settings in the linkage for the accelerator pump adjustment. The other two as far as I can see don’t have any other optional setting.

You might find it useful to pick this guys brain (rbfrog). Send him a message perhaps. Haven’t heard from him in a while though. Here is some of his topics: topic 1 topic2 project thread

I can’t believe what I’m seeing! Please keep us updated. Is it just me or do you not see RB’s used as weapon of choice for proper drag cars that often? Ever since I herd this I’ve had respect: Are you keeping it black? It’s F#@ken cool.

Hi Going to have to be straight with ya. Search, search, search and then search some more. Beware: KE10 is not for the ingenuitively challenged (and I may have just made up a word). You might want to scrap the whole front end and start from scratch.

Whats up dude? Over it already? What new project are you thinking? I think when I finish my car I won’t want to take on another project for quite a while.

Cool Yeah only seeps past throttle shaft with engine off and pressing accelerator. I guess when the engine is running it’s sucking some air past the shaft so it doesn’t happen. So could be too lean??? I’m going to try the choke trick. Problem is the same whether cornering, straight or in neutral. Hitting the wrecker today. Thanks a lot guy’s. Much appreciated.

Why on earth would he say the model number was no use to him? I got talking to the dude at REPCO and he pulled out the Fuel Miser book. There was a few different but very similar carbs for the 3k and 4k. It has diagrams of the gaskets for the different models. One indication was the amount and position of the screws on top of the carb. You can match it to the diagrams. I think it’s worth making sure you get the right one. I had to take one back coz it wasn’t correct. Lucky they know me at my local REPCO and spend the time finding the right parts for my KE10.