lildavo

Best write up on this conversion to date. I just got myself an AE71 donor car and am hoping to get a start on this conversion in the next couple of months so this will be really helpful. Jeez you're keeping the folks at the Orange wreckers in a job :)

Hey some of you guys might be keen, easy to enter... Play Finders Keepers to win an All-New RAV4

Those were some mad rust holes! Good job repairing them. car looks great

read this thoroughly http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm I would honestly forget about s13 suspension. yeah, you can do it but there are better/simpler options out there IMO.

you could probably get an ae92/3 sx if you shopped around at that price, which would be a better option imo. But yeh it depends on the condition of the twin cam really...

It does look like a nice example of a standard KE70, but at the end of the day between 1980 and 1983 toyota made over 10 million of these cars world wide. They're hardly rare and when buying a 30 year old car you would be a fool to trust what it says on the speedometer. I replaced the dash in mine to put a tacho in and automatically wiped 160,000kms off the speedo... Honestly, one of the best things about KE70s is they're cheap and can be found anywhere and everywhere and are also a fantastic base to modify into something awesome. They're not exactly a rare commodity that it's worth spending a fortune on a Overrated example. It kinda gets to me when I see these for sale ads asking $3000+ for a stocker they probably grabbed out of some dudes yard for $200, preaching its their grandmas car they owned since new. I could never justify paying anymore than $3000 on a stock KE70 and it would have to be COMPLETELY rust free and straight to meet that $3k Judging by those pics I personally would value it around the $2k mark. Is there any rust in the spare wheel well? where the boot closes? rear guards? around fuel filler cap?

I ordered springs through AJPS once. Took 2 months to get to me and when they arrived they weren't what I ordered and I've got a feeling he just gets a spring place in SA (aurora springs?) to make them up and then put his own tax on it. If I got springs again I would probably just chop falcon springs up, Save a couple of hundred $ and probably be more satisfied. Also lots of places are to make up any kind of custom spring with the diameter/height/strength you need, AFAIK King springs offer this service...

I'm with snot35. I recommend changing to xt130 corona struts with xt130 lower control arms. Just find a wrecked one somewhere and take all the front suspension out, its a bolt in package. With xt130 struts you will have a much larger range of shocks to choose from as the strut diameter is larger. I'm using kyb Excel G st185 shocks with a spacer in corona struts with lowered 6kg springs in my ke70 As far as I know xt130 are the same dimension strut as the ae86 but come with bigger brakes and you can upgrade to hilux caliper and Peugeot disc which you can't with ae86 afaik. Your choice in shocks and springs depends greatly on what the car is going to be used for. I recommend you do some research on what other people have used and what results they got. You'll find a thread on another forum with pages full of different setups people have used with the pros and cons of their setup. What are you building the car for? P.s I don't recommend ajps at all, I asked for a spring to match the ke70 top and corona bottom and after waiting for over 2 months got sent an ae86 spring instead. And all the shocks I bought through ajps I realised later I could have got them through repco or supercheap cheaper without having to wait ages and being fed crap as to why its taking so long for parts to show up at my door

Looks awesome man, love those wheels. Are you having a lot of trouble with them scrubbing? If so, what are your plans to stop it?

bought something exciting yesterday... now just need to get the following... -ae71 crossmember and engine mounts -t50 gearbox/gearbox mounts, pedal box, M/C and lines + tailshaft -Cut and shut Intake manifold -RWD exhaust -RWD alternator/alternator bracket -Cooling system pipes, etc I'm a bit unsure about wiring a small port up. I want to use the original loom but I've heard the wiring is far to short and I'm not to confident chopping the loom up. I've also read it's easier to just make a new loom up from scratch. the ae92sx still drives and has rego, I drove it home from where I bought it. runs really good, did a compression test before I bought it, has good compression on all 4 pots. too bad the chassis is bent lol. Also got my ass kicked by the misses for buying this before paying the gas bill :o Should be stripping my interior out and removing all the sound deadening as soon as we put another 12 months rego on our daily, cause we've been using the corolla as the daily cause our other car has no rego atm.

Contact breaker gap should be set at 0.45mm according to gregory

The springs rates will probably vary a bit through the different models, you'll find the xr and tickford falcon will be a higher spring rate. Does anyone know the specifics on this? I googled a bit but couldn't find anything... What's a good free height to chop them down to? Also what shocks match up well with them?

I wouldn't pay $300 for an engine crossmember. I got quoted $75 from the wreckers. People are making 4a conversions to expensive by putting a tax on the parts required.

Should have no worries with a rattle gun, I just removed the strut out of the car, chucked them in the boot of my other car and ran them to the nearest workshop and borrowed their rattle gun. Thought of investing in one, but don't have a compressor and the electric ones seem pretty expensive.

I measured it yesterday, it is 110mm. From what I've read, boss kits for other toyotas will fit the ke70 aswell. I'll call around places like saas and see what the shortest Toyota boss kit they make is. Works bell make a 45mm boss kit, but it is fair expensive.

Unknown brand, I've seen pics of 25mm boss kits. But can't find any. Asked around at a few shops. Apparently saas used to make a short one but no longer do. The one of my car at the moment is probably around 110mm

Hey guys, I just fitted a fixed back seat into my car and now I find the wheel is all up in my face, not just that but I can't reach the indicator stalk with a standard boss kit. Wondering if anyone knows where I can find the shortest possible boss kit to fit a ke70 or if anyone else has had this problem and how they dealt with it? I was thinking if I can't find one short enough, might just cut a section out of my current boss kit and weld it back together... anyone done this before?

Seats all in now, welded onto standard rails thanks to my Dad who is a clever man with steel. heres some pics that also show how its mounted... I need to get a shorter boss kit or something though, I'm only a short man, so I have to have the seat fairly forward to reach the pedals :P and my arms end up squashed between the wheel, not to mention the indicator switch is unreachable without taking my hand off the wheel. Anyone know of any short boss kits or wheels I could use?

Raising the car would have a small impact on camber so maybe try some longer springs. Is there such a thing as a positive offset rca? Or can you mount an nrca backwards? Or just borrow some wheels for engineering

Nisrola, your setup looks awesome, did you modify the standard rails or just make some up from scratch for your seat? or is the seat welded into a fixed position? My plan was to weld two plates across the standard rails and drill holes in the plates where the bolt holes would match up to the seat then just bolt it in. Snot, I'd be scared running the belt at to much of an angle, I've read it can actually compress your spine in an accident or even snap the seat and at the same time snap your spinal cord. Rob 5000, would that be because they lack that external oil drain from the head to the sump? Ive been seriously thinking about the SR20de option...seems like a better option for track work and probably more cost effective. Getting turned off 4age for a few reasons- people seem to be asking alot for anything related to doing a 4age conversion, i see $200+ for pedal boxes $350+ for t50s, $150+ for ae71 crossmembers, and $600+ for a motor that'll probably need a rebuild anyhow. then all the little things you need, like all the parts to setup the water system and fuel system and chances are I'll have to pay for it to get wired up cause from what Ive heard they're a bit of a nightmare to wire up and after all that the power isn't all that impressive anyhow. Ive just got to compare prices and convenience Custom mounts to suite sr20 vs ae71 crossmember + 4a mounts t50 gearbox vs rb20/30 gearbox with sr20 bellhousing (or run the silvia box with the shifter in an odd position) ae71 tailshaft vs custom tailshaft sr20de power, price and reliability vs 4age power, price and reliability There is alot of hidden costs in both conversions though. Either way I can't see myself having either in the car for atleast another 6months to a year unless I get some mad cash flow happening somehow :P

Bought a little something yesterday off a fella from toymods. Going to attempt to weld it onto the standard rails and get a 5pt harness to go with it, seems really silly to have a fixed back bucket seat with a lap-sash belt ;) Anyone got a harness in their car?? what harness is it? how did you mount it? what angle are your shoulder belts at? I'll be stripping all the interior out in the next week to make way for a cage when I can afford it, so if anyone needs any interior bits, just send me a pm, otherwise it'll end up at the tip. With cages also...I was thinking of giving bonds roll bars in Mulgrave hill a go, anyone dealt with them? how much did it cost?

Make sure the car is out of gear and with a ratchet spinning the crankshaft pulley turn it clockwise. you should see the valves moving up and down as you rotate it. the valves open during the intake and exhaust stroke and are closed during the compression and power stroke. watch the way the valves operate a couple of times think intake, compression, power, exhaust. A helpful tip is when cylinder 1 is at TDC cylinder 4 will be transitioning betwen the the exhaust stroke and intake stroke, so you'll see cylinder 4s exhaust valve pushed down immediately followed by its intake valve pushed down - at this point Cylinder 1 is at TDC and you'll also notice a timing mark on the pulley line up Least this is how I've been doing it, someone correct me if I'm wrong please...

I have xt130 struts and lcas in my ke70 sedan using the standard ke70 swaybar. Works fine for me, don't know if there is a difference between ae86 and ke70 swaybars though.

I bought the car with the clock stopped at 330,000kms. I took it to Wakefield a few weeks ago and thrashed the guts out of it. Ran a 1.31 with that motor :-) You're probably right that its not just tappet rattle that's wrong with it. But its definitely an issue. I measured one having a .8mm gap. This motor is probably passed its used by date. I just wanted to fix the tappets cause it doesn't cost anything to fix. I won't be spending any money on it, when I can put it towards a conversion. I'll pull the cover off again on Thursday and have another shot at getting them to budge. Anyone else had them seized up? Oh also, one of the reasons for it being so filthy might be because when i bought it the hose that leads from the top of the rocker cover to the air filter had been chopped off some time in its life. so its had unfiltered air/dirt/crap getting into it for god knows how long.

Is build-up this bad out of the norm for a motor this old? I'm not to stressed about the condition of this motor, just wanted to stop the rattling tappets. I'll be doing an engine conversion once I've saved the funds for it. Is there a trick to busting the adjusting screw loose?