GJM85

Radio Frequency Interference. Basically, the tach signal wire is picking up the electromagnetic discharge from the plug leads. At idle the voltage is average and doesn't effect the signal. But, at higher rpm and higher engine load the voltage output increases and each plug lead send an extra extra pulse through the signal wire to the tachometer effective doubling the reading.... Now. How to fix this?

It could be the issue indeed. I just don't understand how or why it's gone wrong.

Taco taco man!

I've just installed a SAAS 2" tacho in my ke20 5k. It seemed easy enough. Black to earth, Orange to (+) battery, Red to ignition, Green to (-) coil and White to dash lights but ran it to ignition instead so its always illuminated. The tacho works fine when the engine is free revving . (ie: when the car is stationary). The problem is, when driving, it moves erratically and reads almost double the expected rpm. I'm using a GT40 coil and an electronic dizzy. Any takers? PS: Yes, the tacho is switched to 4 cylinder....

So much to learn. The Weber book helped me understand how engines work and ultimately enabled me to tune my ke20 unaided. I can't wait to see what I can gain from this one. Updates soon I guess. Thinking battery in boot, thermo switch for the fan and hopefully get the #104 cam in as well.

:oops:

The standard float level of any carb is set just below the holes in the emulsion tubes. If the level goes above these holes emulsion doesn't occur and it runs rich. Too low and the bowl runs dry. Here's my uber fast paint diagram.

Unfortunately there is no fixing the laws of physics. The easiest possible solution is changing your driving line and maybe the gear your using. You can check your float level is right and make sure you've got no vacuum leaks. The other concern could be fuel pressure. If your fuel pressure is too low the centrifugal force can stop fuel flowing the the lines. When turning left, the fuel in the tank moves toward the pick up and fuel lines and doesn't stop fuel supply like it does when turning right.

Yay!

It's probably leaning out as the fuel moves away from the primary main.

I didn't see anything to do with the RSCRA at AJDC. Its good to know there around as i'm thinking of moving the 20 onto club rego and getting a daily.

Mazda 7 of Clubs Car Club does concessional rego. Pretty sure they accept all cars nowadays. The other would have been the Rising Sun Collectors Register, but I'm not sure it exists anymore.

Unfortunately for the 6a/4a series carbies tuning goes as far as idle mixture and idle speed. Getting different size jets would err on the ugly side of impossible. And they have a bajillion holes and pollutiomajiggies.

Unfortunately for the 6a/4a series carbies tuning goes as far as idle mixture and idle speed. Getting different size jets would err on the ugly side of impossible. And they have a bajillion holes and pollutiomajiggies.

That's crazy talk. I don't believe there is anything in the way of carb upgrades for the a-fc series engines. There is so much pollution gear it'd be a big head ache for little to no gain. These engines are built for economy and to get the most power out of them, keep them clean and well maintained. A good quality air cleaner and a free flowing exhaust is the best you can do without spending big dollars. If its a tired old engine you can advance the timing and run premium fuel to get back a few jigawatts.

Southside Suspension at Underwood. The guys a member and a corolla owner.

Ke30/55 diffs don't just fit. They are 35mm wider which causes causes scrubbing head aches. The big issue is the shock absorber mounts. They fix to the spring mount on the 20 diff & to the lower center plate on the 30/55 diff. Its not worth the trouble. Just shortem the 30 axles and fit them to the 20 diff

I'm sunburnt, but happy with how people received the ke20 at its first car show. I took no photos, though. Would have been good to see more Toyotas

Weather predicts a few showers & 27°. Did the full detail today. I'm going rain or shine. Even if nobody goes you may see a little blue classic sitting on and oval all alone if you drive by...

Its is more than likely cam timing. turn your donk round to tdc on cylinder 1. (timing mark at 0 & rotor button at terminal 1). Now turn it another 360°. This is where the overlap of both valves of the first cylinder can be measured. Use a stanley knife blade across the top of the valve retainers. They should be level. If not, turn the crank until both retainers are level in the overlap. Check your timing mark on the crank and you should see how many degrees out your cam is.

Cool beans.

Whaaaa! Whhhaaaaa!!!!

I would end those mutha fukers... END~! Don't mean to make things worse but if that was my 20, i'd be out of the car, destroying faces, right before I cry myself to death. A sad sad day. Thoughts are with you mate.

ʞ©$ɟ yes Chris, your a champ. I reckon that design is perfect.

If your doing your compression test correctly then you could expect a bit more than 150 psi. I would suspect cam timing. Warm engine. All plugs out. Wide open throttle and turn it over testing each cylinder.