GJM85

I'm keen. I might pull out before the big kart track though. Beaudesert is a long drive from Beerwah & if there's beer anywhere near me, ill drink it, then find myself in a pickle when I need to drive home.

Only Toyota at the Logan PCYC Car Show today. Represent! (Except for Steven Kelly's Crown wagon, who left just after I got there).

How did you mount up the rear bar in the 11 stu? I was looking at using the 55 rear sway bar when I put the diff in but could see no good way to mount it to the floor. Tommy's ke11 seems to have got it nutted.

When it comes to the front end handling the roll centre adjusters and adhustable camber tops are the only things I'm missing for a street application. When it comes to the rear end there's heaps to do but for a road car it's all to much. Reset springs, a retro fitted rear sway bar and tramp bars is all you'll need for even the toughest k motors. I've really got to change back to ke20 rear shocks because the 30/55 shocks are at the wrong extension for my ride height and it feels like they are pulling the body downwards rather than softening the compression of the leaf spring. I've ordered RCA's through Techno Toy Tuning. Camber tops will have to wait as will the rear end. I've got a kph/mph decal coming for the cluster. I'm still waiting for the ol' tax man to come through before I decide what's mos important. I have the gaskets to do a cam change so I'm thinking of putting the 270*/.401^ cam in. Still need some valve springs.

Yeah your right about the wind causing a vacuum drawing backwards on the carbs. I've been looking at to many matchbox cars. Some type of reverse scoop would likely be in order ____/ y / y /y / y___

You need to buy a timing light.

Ke15 race car at AJD in June. Twin webers. No vac advance.

Good luck finding anyone in Queenshole.

Sidedrafts are not reknown for their fuel economy and were designed as performance modifications. Vac advance is a pollution/economy control. They are itb's and they deliver fuel through a pulse, unlike downdraft carburettors which have a consistent vacuum. This fact makes a vacuum advance circuit unreliable due to the chatter type action placed on the stator plate. Sidedrafts are known to have poor progression from idling to running due to the lack of vac advance. You need to run a manifold vacuum advance system, which is different to ported vacuum, if you want to keep it and have never even looked at something like that myself.

When you convert to these electronic discharges you don't need a resistor or condenser and you can use a high energy coil.

Lets wait till every bodies cars on the road and then not go anyway. I am keen to cruise Reed.

Desert Fox was sold some time ago but my brother has gone done it again. Beach cruiser with a 66cc R80 two stoker, complete with leather helmet and aviators.

I love my rolla.

Rich engines get flat spots through the rev range and lean engines cut out or bog down. White spark plugs mean it's lean. Blacks plugs are rich. What ignition are are you running? Is it a standard k motor distributor? Different shaped combustion chambers require different amounts of maxinmum advance. To much advance and you'll get detonation which will blow gaskets and damage the head and pistons.

I have a 5k with flat top pistons and a 4k head shaved and ported to suit a big port manifold. Made 44hp when the cam was 20 degrees out and before i'd sorted fuel and timing. It would easily make twice that and revs cleanly to 6500rpm.

Left to advance.

There should be a stem coming from the carb somewhere around the base but not below the throttle plate. If the carb has a recticle to view the float level it is likely a Nikki as I believe there the only other carbs with the same stud pattern as the Aisan ones.

The rear bump stop in a ke20 was a block of rubber mounted to the floor above the diff centre.

There should be a vacuum line that runs from the front of the carburettor to the distributor. This is the vacuum advance line and is responsible for advancing ignition timing at take off. If its not connected at the distributor, its most likely not connected at the carb and would cause a vacuum leak.

I did the conversion on my ke20. Had no issues. If there is absolutely no pedal pressure your definitely pushing fluid out somewhere or there is still air in the lines.

You need to get a timing light, a set of feeler gauges and a tachometer of sorts. 1.Manually turn the engine until the points are on a high point of the distributor shaft. 2. Loosen the screws and slide the feeler gauge between the contacts. You want to set the gap to 0.45mm 3. Using your timing light you can adjust your timing using the dial on the side of the distributor. If it doesn't have the adjustment there, then you will need to loosen the 12mm bolt at the base of the distributor and set the timing to 8-10 degrees advance at idle. You can see the timing marks on the front of the timing cover and there should be a notch in the crankshaft pulley. It will help if you highlight this notch with white marker. 4. Tuning your carburettor could be difficult if there are any air leaks or faulty parts. Start with the idle mixture screw. On the side at the base of the carb. Wind it all the way in until it seats, softly. Wind it back out 2 turns out. 5. Moving to the idle speed screw. On the back of the carb where the accelerator cable links up. Wind it all the way out until the screw is just touching the accelerator linkage. Wind it back in 1 & 1/2 turns. This is now the base tune for your ke20. Start the engine and set your idle speed to 850rpm. Then double check the timing is at 8 degrees.

Pretty sure the rubber one is the seal and the steel ones are shims

*wizz*pop*bang* TADDAAAA!!!

That's tidy. Looks comfy too. What manual gearbox did these come with?