Andy43

In carby rebuild kits there are two holes in the accelerator pump you may have it in the wrong hole Andy

I was also thinking maybe the valves are not closing for some reason too.

I had a holden 308 with a stuffed chain jump a tooth, it just ran but farted and shot big flames out the carby. Andy

Cam timing When number 1 is firing at TDC. Number 4 will be rocking, inlet will just be starting to open and exhaust will just about be closed. Check balancer marking is correct as well could be out or has been remarked for some reason. If thats ok set balancer to 5` btdc and dissy should be pointing toward number 1 plug lead and points should be starting to open. if thats OK check spark. If thats OK check fuel. could be no fuel or flooding. Is carby solidoid OK ? CYA Andy

We run a wade 446b grind, lumpy at idle not much below 3000, runs good 4000 to 7000 rpm. Wade will grind the cam for about 80 bucks and lifters about 4 bucks each. We run the cam advance at what wade recommend's its set to 8` btdc at 50 thou lift on intake. This works out to 72 thou at tdc. You will find the standard cam gear will retard the cam a few degrees. This will change the performance curve of the cam. To time the cam. Set a dial indicator up on piston ,check TDC on the balancer and remark if required. Rotate crank so intake lifter is on bottom of cam lobe. Set dial indicator on intake lifter and zero. rotate crank to TDC and read the lift. From here you need to decide to retime cam or leave as is. To retime. I redrill the timing gear. ( but I have been told you can buy aftermarket timing gears that will advance or retard cam by 5` Me I'm too tight to spend the bucks) I have jig that fits the inner bolt hole of the cam. I use a old gear as a template. There are 36 teeth on the cam gear, but as the gear spins at half the rate of the crank the tooth spacing at 20`. So if the cams retarded say 5` you need to move the hole anticlockwise one quarter of a tooth. Is just a matter of finding a spot on the gear using one gear as a guide and drilling through the gear dowel hole in to the other. Don't forget to remark the timing link mark for the chain. Reinstall gear on cam and remeasure. Hope this helps. If you want some pix on redrilling or timing cam, I can upload next time I do one. Cheers Andy

Hey Good to see some more Corolla's on the speedway track, My son races a KE30 as well, If you need any help just ask. Look forward to seeing the pix. Cheers Andy

Most common ratio in KE30 is 4:11, There was also 4:33 and I have been told 4:22 but yet to see a 4:22. Two types of diffs a jap one and a aussie one, The jap is bango style and the aussie salisbury, Both types are open diffs ( .i.e. non LSD)

You can swap pri for pri but you will find the discharge nossel for the accelerator pump gets in the way. The nossel is a press fit, if you use a 1mm drill bit as a drift you can tap it out swap the venturi and tap it back in again. The Secondry ones pop out OK and once again you can swap Sec for Sec, but as they are about 6 mm shorter than the Primary ones you cannot swap sec or pri or visa versa. Cheers Andy

The part number for the spacer is Fuelmiser fpi-256, Bursons don't stock them but Repco do. You get 1xspacer 2xgasket. Cheers Andy

There are a few varations to 3k carby venturi sizes. I like the 21mm pri and 25mm sec, but these one's do suffer a off idle stumble, however once there reving there the pick of the bunch. Order a 171 jet for the sec from your toyota dealer and you should be right. The pixs tell the story. the size in mm is stamped on the venturi rim. Cheers Andy

Here they are. The Jap drums are around 250mm total dia The Aussie drums are around 300mm total dia. We like the Aussie ones as where changing diffs every few weeks as there lighter and smaller they diff comes out easyer. Diff housings have the same backing plate for aussie or jap drum brakes. CYA Andy

Pongwong I will cover your options. From what I know there are basicly 4 different OME inlet manafolds for a 3/4 k that support single carby. Bigport (30mm) with bent runners. ( runners srink in size in between head and plennum Bigport (30mm) with straight runners. ( runners stay consistant in size and feed 2 to 1 then 2 to plennum) Mid port (27mm) with bent runners. (runners stay consistant in size and feed 4 to 1 ) Small port (25mm) with bents runners. (stock) The bigport with straight runner has other issues, It's plennum area is small you could hog this out, and it does not support a dual exhaust manfold so any HP gains in the inlet will be lost in the exhaust, you could get around the exhaust issue with extractors, For speedway Juniors sedans and I suspect you race in the class by the questions you ask, we must run the stock exhaust manafold. Here's some pix to tell the story. Common small port was we all know and love. Midport I suspect these are on 4k and later but now sure. Common bigport (Note If anyone has a spare one of these please PM me as this one is cracked and I would like to buy one) Early biport I think. Bigport straight plenem area. Bigport straight runner sizes. Bigport straight note exhaust triangle is 180 deg out. Bigport straight exhaust manafold. Hope this helps Cheers Andy

The KE55 has two types of rear brake drums, One type looked like they were off a HQ Holden, the other a Mini Minor, I will upload some pix tomorrow. Andy

Evan Sounds like the calabration of the Jaycar kit it wrong. How did you setup with the 1volt source ? as the lambarda sensors only work in a very short range.

I'm not sure as my head bloke does it all, Good news is I dropped a head in there last week I will ask when I pick it up in a few days.

Colin Just as a matter of interest how much difference between the single and twin set up. Thanks Andy

Old ruling reads (Note this is about to change) Shock Absorbers/Strut Inserts: All cars may change shock absorbers and springs to aid handling. Standard sealed replacement units only. No external adjustment/adjusters. E.g. no external reservoir/canister type or externally gas pressure adjustment, (e.g. increase/decrease gas pressure). No competition aftermarket derivatives. E.g. .AFCO, Bilstein, Koni, Pro, etc. Mounting ends to remain original. They must be able to fit, and mount, in their original mounting points, without any modifications.

I have a box full of 3k carbys all off single carby 3k's Primary venturi could be 17, 19 or 21mm Secondry venturi could be 24 or 25mm Jet sizes .91mm up to 1.77mm. The Yellow book claims the carbys are the same, with different venturis and jetting. The venturis can be poped out of the carby if your careful. The Secondry Venturi is about 6mm shorter in length than the Primary one. I have been playing around with Primary Venturi size, and are currently running 25mm in both pri and sec and while It pulls good when reving hard, the idle performace is not good. The mixture seems to bounce from rich to lean at random. But back to the question. Yes I think they are the same. Hope that helps Andy

Yep I understand what your saying, I wouldn't buy them, I got them when I brought the car, but didn't use them as they were illegal. Most of the other corolla owners don't know about the bilsteins yet, but I think I just let the cat out of the bag. Sused out the exchange rate and can get them for about 220 aussie each plus postage, as they can be rebuilt could be cost effective ?

Where sponsered by Pedders and are currently running pedders everything. Our road cars all run pedders by choice. (And I am happy to pay) We done the canning stock route, the gunbarrel hwy and simpson desert last year, and while we saw plenty of other brands of shocks get destroyed, the Pedders did not fail. Most 4x4 coil springs are way too hard, you need softsprings that articulate well so you keep all wheels on the ground, the pedders 4x4 springs I think when you are offroad are they way to go. I have been using pedders for years and never had a problem. Is it any different to a Commodore being rebadged as a lexin, Patrol to Maverick, A Hyundai with a Mitsabishi engine.

don't know the wording as the rule book has not yet been released. Basicly if its non adjustable, and fits you can use it, the datto owners pushed it as they wanted to run commadore shocks. We currently run Pedders red in the rear and Pedders gas in the front. We will now run the Pedders in the rear and bilsteins in the front. Cheers Andy

Mitch and Tojo Thanks heaps, I'll give quadrant a call even better there just down the road I'll chuck a sickie and check them out. Looks like p30 0077 is sports non adjustable so keeps me with in the rules. just got to clear it with the tech guys. Under the old rules it was standard OEM replacement only, so wet legs or pedders comfort gas, standard Monroes and so on. Things like GT130, pedders red, bilsteins and koni's were no go as they were considered performance shocks. Just got to reverse the eyes on the leaf springs, got a new cam grind and a new engine for the young bloke and hopefully he will give those datto's a run for there money. Cheers Andy

They have a sticker on the side that says P30 077 and there is a number stamped in to the shock saying 0770430623 Cheers Andy

Where running Holden 202 springs in out speedway car, We run out of grunt at about 8000 and have no problems with valve bounce

Hoping someone has a old Bilstein Catalog hanging around. Recent speedway junior sedan rule changes, now allow any type of shock as long as it fits and was designed for a passenger car. I have a pair of Bilstein p30 077 in the shed, I cannot find any info on these on the web, can someone please advise what they were designed for and are they a competition type shock ? Also as one of them is worn out where can I get them rebuilt in SE of Melb Thanks Andy