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Jamboree

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seriously something like that would only be a drag engine. no way you could run one in a street car, well you could but you would be rebuilding the thing like every 6 months. with a full seal kit around $2000 or more it would be an expensive exercise.

 

more a dreamers thing.

 

the amount of port overlap with a bridgeport isn't really the best for forced induction. it would be like running a set of 3/4 race cams in a normal engine and then adding a turbo.

 

a turbo PP would be like the equivalent of taking a formula atlantic 4ag, and throwing a turbo straight on. ok, if you are going to rebuild every few passes, but not for a street engine.

 

a mate of mine has just rebuilt the 13b in his rx3 coupe. it used to run mid 13s in bridgeport guise, now after a rebuild it has been taken out to monster port specs, and is expected to run a mid 12. it cost him $2500 to rebuild, he is a mechanic so gets his parts on the cheap too.

  • Author

doug

 

you are not entirely correct there. you don't just go and turbo any bridgeport or peripheral port motor or else you will be left with an overlapping pig of a motor. there has been a lot of r&d into turboing these things and you can all but eliminate the overlap issue by the positioning of the actual ports in the housing for a PP or the plates in a bridgey. turbo bridgeys are becoming more common for street cars as the australian builders put more time into development... speak with Jon from RX Engineering in newcastle if you want more info, he is building plenty of them at the moment and is well respected in the PR scene (turbo BP motherland) for his top notch tuning and engine building (they fly him out there all the time)

 

any PP or bridgey will need to be freshened up regularly, the PP even more so, however people are now testing small 'bridges' over the peripheral ports which stop the apex seals flexing so much over the ports and causing the fast wear that we all know and love. just like the 'rotaries are unreliable' myth, the 'big ports can't be turboed' and the 'ported rotors need a rebuild every 500m' myths are fading away as more r&d takes place...

 

to cut a long story short :

 

NA bridgey/PP motor will be built entirely differently to one that you want to run with a turbo applications, and a turbo BP is probably even more streetable than a NA BP because of the way the ports are set up, not to mention quieter

 

there is a lot of info on the internet about this, it makes for a good read, you might find it interesting

Rotary port locations are just like our cam specs. The different positions of the ports decided what overlap/duration the engine runs. Same as a cam...but lucky for us we can just whip a cam out and change it...they have to get a whole new end plate/housing and re-port it to the new specifications...

the mazda rotary engine is still really in its early days. but development is moving fast because of modern technology and past experience with different motor designs

 

the piston combustion engine has easily had another 100+ years to develop. back in the 40s they had massive V8s running 5:1 compression and "big power" on the street was about what my 4k makes now - that's one shithouse engine. the earliest piston engines ran leather rings in the bores. now THERE is an engine that's going to need rebuilds alot. just because it's primitive doesn't mean it's not going to get better

 

the "rotaries are unreliable" and "rotaries need rebuilds all the time" myths are pretty much gone these days. you build a stock rotary "block" up with modern components (ignition, seals, induction, etc) and it will last just as long as a stock piston motor from the same time. i'll bet you see renesis engines easily making quarter of a million km

 

most rotaries you see are worked anyway, and all worked motors need rebuilds more often, no matter what they are, because they are under more stress as they run, and usually get driven harder anyway. i know i certainly don't expect my 4k to last any more than 100,000km at most. i'll probably have moved onto something else by then anyway (mmm rwd 4g63)

 

i would like to see where rotaries are, given the same amount of time to develop as piston engines have been. now THAT would be one tight little motor. i just wish they'd make them small enough that i can put one in my car :)

i just wish they'd make them small enough that i can put one in my car :)

A 10A isnt tight enough for you???!!? Theres even 800cc rotarys getting around

 

even a 12A is pretty itty bitty

10As are difficult to get, and you pretty much need a spare 12A/13B to transfer all the good shit across from anyway. if i could find one cheap, then yeah, but i can't so :)

 

12A in ke25 is illegal. by 4kg original tare weight! bastards

can you put them in a street car? how much are they? haha your "extractor" would be one single pipe all the way to the back. and f@$k it would have a funny idle

As far as I know theyre legal....but why would you want them on the street...theyre more of a track/show motor

 

a mate of mine was gonna put one in his AE86 trueno

BECAUSE I WANT A ROTOR f@$kYA :) my car is actually registered as a "ke20 variant" and the body type is "sedan". i'll send the rta an email and ask if there's a real "ke25" and "coupe" category and what the tare weight is, maybe i can do a change of details to the right thing and my car can gain 5kg and a 12A. dream dream dream

ohh so u love the rotors..

 

so if i get this car u will love me too hehehehehe :)

unless you're shaped like a funny triangle and move in an elliptical pattern at over 8000 times per second, sorry toots, you lose

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