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Sam_q's Scooter - Yes A Scooter!


Sam_Q

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I know this isnt relevent to this forum and I am not running any toyota parts but I thought people might be interested to see some custom work done on something unconventional.

 

I wanted a scooter that was affordable, had a clutch, air filled tyres and was relatively fast and cheap to mod and service. This ruled out any go-ped or zenoa engine. So I decided to make one that was made from the parts of a pocket bike, cheap easy and with disk brakes.

 

Anyway here goes:

 

 

 

 

 

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- Heres what I started with after I stripped the frame and choped a bottom plate off

 

 

 

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- After I chopped off the rear fork and welded on a pocket bike fork that I prepared earlier

 

 

 

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- I braced the frame

 

 

 

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- I welded up the rear forks properly, chopped some bike forks down for the front, bolted them to a wheel and sat it next to where I thought it would end up sitting

 

 

 

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- My new custom fork tack welded together

 

 

 

 

 

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my new forks welded to the original forks that had been chopped

 

 

 

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how it made the frame sit with the lower height, notice how it slopes downwards

 

 

 

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the front part of the frame chopped getting measured to see how much to take off

 

 

 

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aligning the newly cut down forks and checking for straightness

Edited by Sam_Q
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- Dummy fitting the engine roughyl where it will be sitting bar it being a few cm higher and more towards the front of the bike

 

 

 

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- Front part of the frame welded on and smoothed over

 

 

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New headset to frame pipe welded in and smoothed over.

 

 

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Vertical pipes shortened, horizontal pipe welded in, two strengthening gussets welded in.

 

 

 

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Making some new engine mounts

 

 

 

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Aligning the two rear pipes for engine mount brackets. The pipes have two temporary peices of steel welded to them to hold them in place which will be removed once it's welded together.

 

 

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Engine + mounts tack welded to frame and also additional suport welded that has a bend in it to not hit the chain.

 

 

 

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Front temporary bracing removed.

 

 

 

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Forks back in and with higher handlebars fitted.

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020.jpg

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- New side pipe welded in, pipe on opersite side cut and welded in, top loop

welded in, top engine mount welded, cross bar cut & welded in and I also welded all the joins that had temporary tack welds holding them together.

 

 

 

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- Engine out with the welds cleaned up and I chopped off the temporary rear section.

 

 

 

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- Engine reinstalled

 

 

 

 

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- Cro-Mo diagonal braces welded in

 

 

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- Wheel reinstalled

 

 

 

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- As it is currently

 

 

 

 

Did some more work:

 

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- I modified an already modified stock pipe to suit my scooter layout. I figue it will work for now till I am ready to install my fat boy pipe. Even though it's temporary I am quite happy with how it sits. When the time comes I will definetly have to install a gaurd so I don't burn myself.

 

I also shortened the stand so that it will work for my scooter. Originally on the pocket bike it was in a much higher postion so when i used it for my scooter it no longer worked. I took a 30mm or so long peice out of it and now it works great.

 

 

 

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- Fitted the disk brakes to the front. This was an unusally hard job to do, but now with some time and a serious amount of patience it lines up perfectly and uses all of the brake-pad surface.

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Today I spend a unreasonable amount of time making this:

 

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- I know what everyone is thinking.... 'WTF is that!?'

 

 

.

 

 

 

A pictures worth a thousand words:

 

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- This is what I came up with for a fuel tank mount, the round section is Cro-Mo pipe (same pipe as the angled brace on the rear forks) and it's quite light. When in the down position it clamps the tank quite well. I figured I would need this because it would be suject to some intense vibrations. The fuel tank is a slim-line pocket bike tank that is supplied with any fat-boy pipe, it should be enough capacity for me and look ok.

 

 

Next on my list of things is to make this mount bolt to the frame, not as easy as it sounds.

 

 

 

Another good day of work, unfortunetly it might be the last one in a while.

 

 

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- Fuel tank mounted, tank clamped down

 

 

 

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- Clamp in the released position

 

 

 

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- Tank removed with clamp attached to frame.

 

 

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- The clamp is attached by Cro-Mo pies that are bolted. This way the mount possitively locates and therfore is very solid and can't move. I used M5 bolts and I will source some decent cap screw high tensile ones of the right length later. My welds for the mounts ended being a bit rough for this one, but atleast it won't break.

 

 

 

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- Showing how the mount unbolts

 

 

 

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- I modifed my tank a little, what I did is I clamped a fuel hose on and then used a heatgun all around near the bottom of the tank. Then once it softened up I tilted the outlet on an angle at the same time as I was pulling it down. This does two things, first up originally the outlet on the inside has a decent sized lip, so the last bit of fuel never would come out, by doing what I did the lip is sunken and all the fuel will come out. Secondly the outlet is now facing where I need it and its not a strain on the tank anymore. Sure I could of lifted the tank but that would make it look less neat. Also as shown in the pic I hooked up the hoses, clamps and a filter. It's short, neat and simple, as a bonus I can still take my tank off without disconecting it.

 

 

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Putting the throttle on and levers in place. A big thanks to Jason from Toowoomba Pocket Racing for giving me these. I decided to keep these handlebars even if they make the scooter look a bit querky. But I do still plan on modifying the gooseneck to be about 10cm longer. I will also make up a longer bolt using a peice of all thread and a long nut.

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here is what I have currently being run in in my pocketbike which will end up in this scooter:

 

 

- 2 peice head kit with 13.5:1 compression

- tiny boost port

- 33mm crank

- 50.1cc

- dellorto carby

- fiberglass reeds

- fat boy pipe

- lightened flywheel

 

parts I have coming or havent installed:

 

- tripple stage reeds

- timing key

- full circle crank

- 15:1 head kit and dome

 

future mods

 

- modifed fat boy

- central boost port enlarged and 2 more added

- ported for slightly higher revs

- balance crank

- modify the combustion chamber

- modify the crankcase for more flow

- modify the barrel for more flow

- custom dual peddle V stack reed setup?

- lightened and windowed piston

 

 

 

 

 

did some work during weekdays this time due to my lack of free time

 

 

 

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- Here is the arangement I have so far come up with. I have small sprung V-brake levers for the brakes and a mini lever that I am setting aside for the throttle. I also fitted a cut off switch on the right hand side.

 

 

 

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- I bought a length of all thread so I could make this extra long head stem bolt. To make it I welded on a car spec nut onto the end of the all thread and then ground it down to make it neat. I needed it so long to suit this...

 

 

 

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An extra long head stem! To make this I took the original head stem, chopped the pipe off an old head stem I had, welded it onto my original

 

 

 

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- I started and finished my deck, I really like how it turned out. I think it looks mean as is simple and light. I used counter sunk M6 screws and recessed them to be flush. I cut the plate back near the front vertical pole so that it clears the weld. I did this so that I wouldn't have to grind the weld back and potentially cause a weakness.

 

 

 

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- Front cable put in place, attached the cable to the brakes and adjusted them. I also fitted the rear brake cable and heat-shrunk the wire from the kill switch along with it. Now that I did this it looks like one cable.

 

 

 

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- As it stands now, I am really happy how its looking. It is still very light and easy to use. The front brakes also pull up real hard. Notice the tall headstem with some temporary primer on it. I need to borrow some scales and check this thing compared to my pocket bike, because it may be lighter. One other interesting thing is the fast I can actaully bunny hop this thing with everything attached atleast 10cm, now that is unusual for any scooter. I am hoping that because of the light rear-ward weight I might be able to do some nice wheelstands with some carefull weight trasfer and some power.

 

 

 

Next up: Custom throttle link and cables + rear brakes + custom tensioners

 

after that its ready to ride!!! I can't wait.

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well it finally runs!

 

 

049.jpg

 

Here is how I did my custom throttle cable, I just clamped two cable together, great to work on and does the job flawlessly. I also made it do the cable has a section further up the frame for decreased friction.

 

 

 

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A closer look,the clamp is off a brake caliper that has been customised and some washers added for clamping.

 

 

 

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The rear brake cable; this also has a bare section for decreased resistance, it was at first much harder to use that the front but with this and some PTFE lined cables its pretty good now.

 

 

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Complete!

 

 

I will do another update to explain what has since happened. But I will say right now I think in due time I will be able to do some killer monos and it's a blast to ride.

 

 

 

 

I initually ran the engine with no spark plug cover and not suprisingly I copped a few shocks. Other than that it ran great and felt good. I fitted a rubber boot over the spark plug and also went to fit my other engine.

 

What happened is that I was ready to change the engine and I did. Interestingly enough the chain was adjustable perfectly for the previous engine but when I swapped to my decent engine it wouln't fit. It seems that theres a bit of a difference between castings and the heights of the mounts. I tried running a chain a link longer but it was too long. I bolted it up still and used it. I rode it and it had twice the power and that was with the standard pipe, it was great.

 

I initually filed the engine mounts down a bit to level it a bit like I did with the other engine, but to correct the chain length issue I filed it down some more and retried it. It didnt make much of a difference so I took it back off and then got the grinder out and took more off. I retried and it seemed like I took too much off. I tried two different sizes of washers and I when tried the thinner one it suited perfect.

 

However when i tried to start it it was dead. I spent half a day trying everything and I found nothing. Finally I put my orginal engine back in and it fired up. I figure I just popped a seal somewhere or something I will find out soon.

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thanks guys,

 

I didnt mention it but I took this thing for a torture test and on the way back I actually snapped the custom head set in half. No big deal though, I will fix it and then continue to make something better. I am going to have a flat handlebar like a mountain-bike I think.

 

I in due time want to master some mono's (if I can) and then do some vids of me helping increase my mortality

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