nice ride, in respect to the battery, don't BUY AN ODDYSEE!!! i know some people on here have had good expirences with them in the past but about 12-18mths ago they went to shit. I worked in a battery store and saw it 1st hand, they got bought out by another company and the quality went south. On top of this, an oddysee is a race only battery, the don't like anything other than running the engine, they work in a race only car but if you have a stereo, lights, a/c or any other auxillaries they die.

 

secondly, don't buy a deep cycle, they arent designed for cranking, just constant charge and discharge (like in a camper van running a fridge) and will eventually die. Having said that there are dual purpose batteries that do both crank and deep cycle but u don't need them, they are for 4wd that don't have room for a deep cycle and crank battery.

 

Optima's kick arse, they are the best on the market by far, they ALWAYS rate higher than is written on them by a big margin (50%+) but they are expensive.

 

For yours i would consider running a federal mx5 battery, theyre semi sealed (they don't need boxing, just a small vent tube running outside the car) have about 650 cold cranking amps when tested, and are way cheaper than most other sealed/semi-sealed units. I have 1 in my KE70, it has a sr20 and full electrics and it hasnt skipped a beat for 2yrs. I chose this and i had a choice of anything in the store, including optima's. They're also small (not as small as most oddysee's but smaller than a standard rolla battery). Go to Ryde Batteries and tell them beau that worked at batteryworld moorebank, romano's son, sent u. They might give u a deal.

 

From memory they were worth $150-200, they may have gone up tho.

Jono: thanks for the info, i want it to look good so i'll probably cut and weld it in reverse.

 

FatBC: thanks for the advice. that Federal battery sounds like the go then. I definately wanna run a system, so it will be a perfect mix. Thats a good price too, last time i checked a good optima went for 300+

 

Cheers,

Mark M

yeah, the optima's are good but heaps dear, i'd go the federal and put it somewhere that leaves you enough room to fit a commonwhore battery (just get a dead one from the wreckers for sizing) and if the federal proves to not be enough you can always go the optima when the federal dies. I doubt you'll have any problems tho, unless you have a habit of running a big stereo system for hours on end with the car turned off

yeah, the optima's are good but heaps dear, i'd go the federal and put it somewhere that leaves you enough room to fit a commonwhore battery (just get a dead one from the wreckers for sizing) and if the federal proves to not be enough you can always go the optima when the federal dies. I doubt you'll have any problems tho, unless you have a habit of running a big stereo system for hours on end with the car turned off

 

Sweet, battery is the least of my worries at the moment...

Have purchased some wheel spacers to fix the tyre/leaf rubbing problem from Repco.

will be cutting and reverse welding the "bump" on the firewall on saturday morning.

also hoping to have the motor/box mounted & some accessories on.

 

Thanks for the support and advice everyone, it keeps me geed to finish!

 

Cheers,

Mark M

Hi all,

ok, wheel spacers on & car is rolling...

Motor & 'box is in...

My computer is stuffed so will have the pics tommorow.

 

the rolla is now on hold until i get back from ITALY!! :dance:

flying out on the 29th April, and getting back on 28th May...

 

Have the car booked in for when i get back, to start work straight away, probably fuel system and Microtech will be first on the list.

 

Cheers,

Mark M

Some pics:

 

Old rear-end VS. New rear-end

 

Motor & Gearbox, no clutch/flywheel inside:

 

Cutting & welding firewall "bump":

 

Mounting motor & Gearbox:

 

Motor sits slightly too high as the rubbers on the mounts are too big...no big deal...

ENJOY!

Edited April 21, 200818 yr by HIGH ROLLER

Looks like ur using A W5* gearbox. What bellhousing?

is that the really early 4agze with dizzy?

Edited April 21, 200818 yr by Jono

Looks like ur using A W5* gearbox. What bellhousing?

 

Hi champ, nah it's a t-50 'box....hoping to upgrade to a w-5# later on when power destroys the t50...hahaha

 

Jono - it sure is, big port with 8.0:1 compression....will be doing away wih the dizzy very soon though, moving to DLI/CAS with igniter box and quad-coils running off a Microtech...

 

Cheers,

Mark M

i'm still confused about the differences but i think i slowly getting there:

is it the 7 rib block with larger crank though? or the 3 rib block? it won't have the oil squirters or the stronger ae92 rods. i just got a spare big port, 7 rib block 4AGZE with the smaller rods and its a MAP version with CAS. but its on ebay at the moment as i'd rather have the ae93 GZE as its got all the good stuff: 8.9:1 comp, beefy rods, oil squirters. the ae101 GZE went back to lighter rods and the early ones don't have the oil squirters, so i reckon the ae93 one is the good one to get.

Edited April 22, 200818 yr by Jono

as far as I know, mine has the specs:

Big Port

8:1 comp

NO oil squirters

Air Flow Meter (getting a microtech with MAP anyway)

beefy H-Beam Rods

ceramic topped pistons?

 

which variant being better is a matter of opinion, as 8:1 comp & big ports are more boost friendly... :hmm:

tho it would be nice to have oil squirters, and slightly better rods & pistons...

 

it doesnt bother me, my plans are to rebuild it before i throw bigger boost at it anyway.

plans include:

Oil squirter block

Big port head

New Rods

Forgies (still 8:1)

 

All I can say is that any of the 4AGZEs are a sh*t load stronger than alot of other factory turbo motors.

 

Cheers,

Mark M

Guess who's back?

just got back from Italy on tuesday arvo.

Rolla will be rollin' into the workshop on sunday to begine work to get her on the road.

will keep you posted with any major news....

 

Cheers,

Mark M

Nice project mate..... looks like it will end up being a stinker when you get that motor going ! It should really haul some ass in that little chassis.

 

What turbo are you going to use to run the boost you want to run?

Edited June 6, 200818 yr by 30psi 4agte

So are you gonna get this car working on the current motor with a small turbo? Seems a waste to buy the thing only to use it to dummy fit and then start building another motor. You're only a couple of manifolds and a turbo away from having a car that drives if you go down that route, you could even run the stock GZE ecu to start with.

 

Please tell me you can understand why people were trying to push this idea on you about 4 months ago? Might be worth letting go of your pride for a while, people weren't telling you what to do, they were giving you advice after being forum whore's for 5 years seeing many projects finish and fail. Just think, you could have a car that can be driven in a month if you want.

hey mate.. have you got a pic of the firewall bump once you finished it? cheers