Just recieved my r/h tail light... :wink:

Hey guys

 

Well not much has happened in the last two weeks. Just been working and trying to get as much money as possible.

 

Well as my 3K has no compression:

How much would a rebuild cost?

Could I do it myself? (I have my uncles backyard workshop to do it at)

What would need to be changed on it? New rings etc

What does reconditioning a head mean? Would I need to recon mine?

 

I'm still saving up for a 2T/2TG, but I'm not sure if I want to go through the hassle of the conversion. Anyone have any info on that? I have a bit of an idea of what is involved. Eg Engine mounts etc

 

I just want to get this peice of shit running :P

 

Cheers

Tally

 

p.s This is all a learning experience for me and as this is my first car I'm a bit out of the know.

Edited August 24, 200719 yr by SLY T

If you just want to get it running you should be able to find a 4K at a reasonable price, they're not too hard to come by, $200 or so. Or buy a rust bucket KE70 with a sweet motor. It'd be the quickest option.

or buy my 5K for $400 and get 1.5L of goodness :P

yea guys just went and had a look at a 2TG. Its in a 71 ta22 Celica. Its running, has extractors and is running sweet.

 

Wants $1300 for the engine, gearbox and exhaust, or $1600 for the whole car.

 

Told him to hold it for a month while I grab some cash together. Fits straight in apparently. So should be killer :P

 

2TG in KE25 = Street Machine!!!

Edited August 25, 200719 yr by SLY T

No, I can assure you, it does NOT fit straight in.

No, I can assure you, it does NOT fit straight in.

 

so whats the catch? he is giving me the ta22 engine mounts/crossmember and I have read they bolt straight in.

 

As the KE25 came out in Japan in the Levin spec it had the 2TG as the standard engine. It actually bolts straight in. You might just flatten out a couple of the bumps on the fire wall so you can remove the rocker cover easily and taking the engine and gear box as an assembly you need to gently wiggle it over the steering arms but it all seems to fit in snuggly. I think we ended up using modified engine mounts to move the engine forward about 20 mm to give it more room.

 

You can see in the photo where the engine mounts are it is slightly off set forward. This way the cross member stays unmodified and you just use the mounts.

Edited August 25, 200719 yr by SLY T

You need to move the engine mounts, and move the gearbox mount on the crossmember over to centralise the gearbox in the car.

 

I moved the engine mounts on the cross member, so I can easily change the rubber mounts when time comes. This also allowed me to move the engine over the required 20mm or so to centralise it in the car.

 

You also need a hydraulic clutch system.

 

You also need a custom tail shaft.

 

If the thing has any reasonable power, you're going to need to upgrade the diff, probably sooner rather than later.

 

Dude, it doesn't bolt in. Not if you want to do it properly.

Edited August 25, 200719 yr by Redwarf

You need to move the engine mounts, and move the gearbox mount on the crossmember over to centralise the gearbox in the car.

 

I moved the engine mounts on the cross member, so I can easily change the rubber mounts when time comes. This also allowed me to move the engine over the required 20mm or so to centralise it in the car.

 

You also need a hydraulic clutch system.

 

You also need a custom tail shaft.

 

If the thing has any reasonable power, you're going to need to upgrade the diff, probably sooner rather than later.

 

Dude, it doesn't bolt in. Not if you want to do it properly.

yea I understand mate, I knew I needed to do that. Is it a massive task to do? Any complications in doing it?

 

Well I think this thread is going to help greatly once I get the engine and start the conversion.

 

thanks heaps mate for the help

 

Cheers

Tally

Tally, what is making you go for the T engine over a K?

 

you can pick up a schmick 4 or 5k for under $500, throw on a weber and exhaust. your laughing

 

ull be on the road in a weekend, and with alot more cash in your wallet rather than in a car that is still not on the road.

 

just think about it before u go turning another RARE ass corolla into a PROJECT CAR that wil never get to be enjoyed as it should.

 

just some food for thought T.

cheers scott

Maybe youre right Scott. Thats what my dad said.

 

By what Redwarf stated its not a bolt in conversion.

 

I’m not sure what I want to do. I bought the car purely with the intention on driving it with as less hassles as possible. I spent money on the 3k and found out it had no compression. I got pissed off so thats why I put it up for EOI. I got some interest like I knew I would and it motivated me to keep it because I waited so long to get one and I'm not going to let it slip away.

Now I came up with the 2TG idea because my mate has a Celica with an 18RG (which is longer in length) in it. Now I understand that is a whole different ball game as it bolts straight in with the Celica.

With the KE25, even though the te27 Levin/Trueno in Japan came with a 2TG, to convert a KE25 to a 2TG is much harder as Redwarf said with the custom engine mounts, hydraulic clutch, custom tail shaft etc etc.

Maybe its because I like the sound of the 2TG. Sounds mean az.

Maybe it is better to stick with a K series. As like you said I will have more money in my pocket then in a car that’s not on the road.

Anyway I wanted to keep the car as close to original as possible. So a 4K or 5K would be as close to original as I could get.

 

Wanted the 2TG because it would make it a bit more like a TE27 with a bit more power.

 

Hmmm Thanks Scott.

Yeah mate, i agree with Scott on the K motors. :P

I have a Stock 5K, with points dizzy and standard carby and pipes, in my Early KE20.... :P

It goes hard for the money that i have barely spent on it :dance:

It gets me plenty of attention from all sides :D :P

At the end of the day its still a KE ... NOT a Trueno?? and a TIDY one at that

Ok so lets get this straight.

2TG theory out the window.

My 3K is bust.

Leaning towards a 5K or maybe a 4K.

Whats involved in putting it in the KE25?

pull out 3k bolt in 5k afaik, i don't know much about k engines

Ok so lets get this straight.

2TG theory out the window.

My 3K is bust.

Leaning towards a 5K or maybe a 4K.

Whats involved in putting it in the KE25?

I can tell you a KE55 4k & gearbox drops straight in but i would go 5K. :hmm:

Raven :hmm: 1.5L of goodness definately. :) Very strong too.

I don't treat mine well but she still gets me around.. quickly too.. :D

The only issue will be exhaust flange... keep the exhaust manifold off your 3K!! :)

The later ones have a twin pipe flange. Also, i think the KE30 single pipe flange is different to KE20? :hmm:

That's what the gasket catalogue says, from memory, anyway. :hmm: