7shades Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 That hottest day this summer, takes commitment to work on your car... Bin Laden has been hiding in Tasmania fighting the 'war on rust'... Quote
machg Posted January 3, 2008 Author Report Posted January 3, 2008 The first part to get transplanted, LOL The twinky wheel will sit a good couple of centimetres further back (towards driver) than standard, has anyone else put one in a T18 or similar? Did you modify anything to get it to sit forward? (back closer to dash, as factory) Or was it O.K. being a bit closer? Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 3, 2008 Report Posted January 3, 2008 The first part to get transplanted, LOL The twinky wheel will sit a good couple of centimetres further back (towards driver) than standard, has anyone else put one in a T18 or similar? Did you modify anything to get it to sit forward? (back closer to dash, as factory) Or was it O.K. being a bit closer? You want it closer so its away from the stalks. When your driving hard you don't want to be hitting blinkers and wiperes and such. Quote
Raven Posted January 3, 2008 Report Posted January 3, 2008 Bin Laden has been hiding in Tasmania fighting the 'war on rust'... I would've gone for the "war on terror rust" myself :yes: Quote
machg Posted January 3, 2008 Author Report Posted January 3, 2008 You want it closer so its away from the stalks. When your driving hard you don't want to be hitting blinkers and wiperes and such. Good point, I have never been a fan of a straight arm driving style either. I suppose I could also mount the pedals back a bit (I'm a shortarse) and slightly improve the fore/aft weight distribution. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 3, 2008 Report Posted January 3, 2008 (edited) Good point, I have never been a fan of a straight arm driving style either. I suppose I could also mount the pedals back a bit (I'm a shortarse) and slightly improve the fore/aft weight distribution. Well thats a big job (pedals), but they do sell extra long bosskits and wheel spacers for a reason. Its coming along quite well for such a new build. Id never have the guts to take on so much rust, but this car will be worth it for sure. And as the late Peter Brock said, "Bite off more than you can chew, then chew like hell." Edited January 3, 2008 by LittleRedSpirit Quote
machg Posted January 4, 2008 Author Report Posted January 4, 2008 Got a bit overwhelmed with the enormity of it all today, so I got away from the shell and worked of these today. They have all had the major rust removed and surface rust treated with rust converter. To finish them will be a matter of fabricating patches for big holes and welding them in (rust converting the welds), reo boging small holes, bogging any minor panel inperfections, then painting with Tremclad. Also swapped some more parts AE82 => TE71, its quite amazing the similarities: Tail light bulb mounts are the same. Accellerator mount is the same, just had to bend past the pivot point to line up with cable hole. Quote
machg Posted January 5, 2008 Author Report Posted January 5, 2008 (edited) AE82 radiator looks almost "factory" AE82 loom plugs straight into all TE71 connections on steering colomn, indicators, headlights, gotta love Toyotas Not transferable parts so far: brake and clutch pedal assemblies, dash board. Surprisingly; the AE82 shell is quite a few cms wider than the TE71 shell. Edited January 5, 2008 by machg Quote
machg Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Posted January 19, 2008 Been a while, think I'm going to need robotic jaws. :D Thankfully, the back of the crossmember, where the front suspension tie rod (?) and sway bar bracket mounts is untouched. I am thinking of not cutting out this rust, rather wire brushing and rust converting then boxing in over and past the rusted areas. I think I'll need something stronger and thicker than the 1mm steel I have got for panel patching. Would 2mm zinc steel sheet be thick enough? Also will MIG welds have enough strength/penetration? Quote
Medicine_Man Posted January 19, 2008 Report Posted January 19, 2008 I think you mean castor rod. The front doesn't really support that much so I don't see why a 2mm plate welded with a mig would cause a problem. Quote
machg Posted January 30, 2008 Author Report Posted January 30, 2008 (edited) Wasn't supposed to happen this way, but the mounts showed up and I couldn't resist! A couple of questions: engine will be sitting much more level when gearbox is attached, yes? At the moment the back is sitting on the (cough) steering cross member (cough). Also, the driver's side mount isn't sitting down fully in the mounting cradle, its sitting up by about 8mm, and there is no obvious reason for this. (clearance all the way around the engine) Any ideas? Went with 3mm plate (free, LOL) Not the easiest to shape or cut... Turned out pretty well. Edited January 30, 2008 by machg Quote
Medicine_Man Posted January 30, 2008 Report Posted January 30, 2008 What crossmember are you using? any close up shots of where its not sitting in the mount properly? Quote
machg Posted January 30, 2008 Author Report Posted January 30, 2008 What crossmember are you using? any close up shots of where its not sitting in the mount properly? Engine crossmember is the standard unmodified T series one. It had a 2TGUE sitting on it. I'll get some more pics tomorrow, everything looks spot on alignment wise, maybe the rubber mounts are a fraction thick, could also be because the motor is not sitting level, I might put a jack underneath the back of the engine and level it and see if that does the trick. Cheers, machg Quote
Medicine_Man Posted January 30, 2008 Report Posted January 30, 2008 Never compared a T series crossmember to an A series one, Could be slightly different.. Quote
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