Finally.. The valve stem seals have been changed. Was all smooth going until it was time to take out the old seals with the long nose pliars I had. Anyway here are some pictures. I followed the guide I posted above, but hopefully these images I took below will help you understand a little bit more.

 

 

Alright, pull everything off, timing belt, cam gears, valve covers and everything holding it on (follow 4AGE book for detailed instructions).

 

Pull cam shafts out.

 

Remove a cylinder's shim and buckets (I did it on piston 4).

 

Get your piece of rope which will be put down the cylinder.

 

Using some sort of stick/wire, shove the rope into your spark plug hole. Make sure piston is on bottom dead centre (or near it) before you put rope in. Once it's in, turn crank clock wise until it stops.

 

Get your valve keeper removal tool.

 

Valve keeper installer side.

 

Remover side. Use this to push down onto the valve 'holder' thing.

 

You'll get it out and it'll look like this. Keepers will be sucked in by the tool (magnetised).

This is what it looks like taken out.

 

This is what your motor looks like once keepers and holder are removed. That's the spring you see.

 

Remove spring, don't forget which one's the bottom end.

 

Both sides removed and you can see the old and dirty valve stem seals.

 

Make sure all your shims, buckets, springs etc are all arranged neatly. They must go back where they came from.

 

Using long nose pliars or valve stem seal pliars, take out your old seals. I had a bit of trouble because it was in so tight and I kept slipping.

 

Old and new valve stem seals side by side (from left to right, old, new).

 

Put a light coat of oil over new seal and place it over the valve stem.

 

Using a deep 10mm socket, push the seal down evenly until a 'click' or 'pop' is heard. Either that or push down till it stops. You don't have to put much force into it.

 

Left side is new seal done, right is still old seal.

Both done.

 

Keepers and holder when all apart.

 

Put spring back in the way it came out, place keepers into holder like one of the pictures above and place of spring making sure you don't drop anything. Dropping a keeper down the head could be a major problem (ripping head off then searching for it in the sump).

 

Push down with your tool. It's only standard springs, but a lot of force is still needed.

 

It should then look like the way it was. If only one keeper went in properly, make sure you use the tool to remove it then install again with them both out. If it goes in dodgy, take out again.

 

 

Photos where taken with a camera which had a broken screen so sorry for dodgy photos.

 

I could've made a more detailed 'write up' but there's already a few out there.

 

Changing valve stem seals isn't a hard job if you've got some mechanical knowledge. It would've been a lot harder without the valve keeper removal tool and I would recommend getting the valve stem seal pliars cause the long nose pliars where shit. :cool:

 

I've gone for a drive and so far so good. Feels bit better (performance wise), but it could've been the new, thinner oil I just did the oil change with or the change of valve clearances (it's a good time to do valve clearance check and fix them where you can).

i can see your rolla does the same thing mine does makes your bleed!

 

looks good

Bahahaha yeah, a pinky had a blood blister the other got a massive cut while trying to yank the old valve stem seals out. I've had my Hepatitis B and C shots so hopefully the rust doesn't kill me. :2thumbs:

 

I forgot to mention that I got out bidded on the Nardi and the fixed back seat has been paid for. :cool:

 

 

Edit: New seals will be put into my leaking dizzy tomorrow. It's leaking like a bitch.

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by adam-__-

Dizzy seals have been replaced. Wasn't too hard to change. Only had trouble unscrewing the two screws inside the dizzy to take out the shaft and drilling out the pin to remove the gear. Apart from that, a pretty easy replacement and I saved $100. :P

 

Guide to replace seals are in the links below. First link is for big port dizzy and second is for small port.

 

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8286

 

http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=21555

 

 

The part numbers for the two seals are 'TC12379VI' and 'BS217' from CBC Bearings. Set me back $6 altogether.

Edited February 3, 200917 yr by adam-__-

Nice write up on the stem seal changing. Should get one of the Mods to throw it in the FAQ so it is easier for other users to find for future reference. Great work :P

This car is sik :party:

 

Thats really good info on the valve seals i second the motion of a mod putting it up 2 make life easier for everyone :P

 

thats all that cars were designed to do is take ya money, chew it up, spit it out then start over again, then hurt u phsically and hurt your wallet big time but the end product is always worth the cash and time spent on it :cool:

top efffort

how did you go with putting the cams back in and getting the timing right?

 

joe

Hrmm after reading your replies, I'm starting to think I should've done a proper write up. There's already some around, but instead of people linking to other forums, if I had written one up, people would link to rollaclub? More people on rollaclub=more money? :cool: I'll see what I can do...

 

 

Putting cams all back was a piece of cake (following the guide in the 4AGE manual). The first time I had the head off/apart I had a bit of trouble getting the timing right because I don't have the timing belt casing which has the markings on it, but yeah I've learnt how to get the timing right without one. Dizzy was just marked and put back to its original position.

 

 

Plans for it now is to just install the seat I've got coming, new tyres and then probably a new steering wheel. :P

Where did ya get ya PS arms from Adam?

I got them off a member on AE86DC. He was parting out his car so..

Damn, looking for a set.. and $300ish a bit more then a i want spend on brand new ones :D

I got bored today so I pulled my front 8kg springs out and reinstalled my lower '8kg' springs. It's now tucking tyre and feels like shit to drive compared to the real 8kg springs. Feels really sloppy.

 

This is how it looks like now.

 

 

 

 

These photos were taken by that stuffed screen camera and it looks a little blurry for some reason.

 

8kg springs and Sierra shocks are for sale! Buy buy! Own a bit of this car's history.. :)

Id be happy to have that in my driveway.

 

:)