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Doogs' Ke20 - Lke020

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  • Author
Nice progress dude :dance:

 

If you want to paint the car with the rubbers on the windscreen, i found a really cool trick so you don't get those ugly mask lines around the rubber. Just get some wipper snipper line and push it under the rubber just slightly. That way the rubber is raised up and you can get paint under it. When it comes time to finish, you pull the line out and the rubber sits back on top of the paint just like as if the rubber has been removed for painting :)

 

Thanks Johno.

When we did the first lot of topcoating a mate suggested we use a similar technique with electrical wire, it did a good job.

I have not been as patient with some of my primer coats though. I had a go at cleaning some of the overspray off the other day and it's looking a little better. I'm not sure if the screens will stay in when I do the topcoating but if they do I will run a wire around.

Cheers

Edited by Doogs

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 407
  • Views 857.5k
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  • Thanks for the kind words guys.   I took the car up to Lake Eildon this weekend as I was going waterskiing with mates. Car ran pretty well but I think I have a blocked PCV, there was some oil leakag

  • Your 20 looked great at Classic Japan today, so bloody clean.    

  • Cheers guys, will definately be up for a cruise when i get it all put together. :)

  • Author

Hey guys,

I have been doing a bit more work guidecoating and removing scratchmarks etc, still waiting on my bonnet from my mate.

 

With the help of another mate I'm giving the left gaurd another go, and replacing the thin rust riddled steel. Last night I filed a patch peice to make my mates job easier at TAFE. (He is doing a night course on panelbeating and panel making, to aid in the restoration of a 1930 Dodge roadster he is re-building.) Hopefully this gaurd will come up quite well with a bit of careful work with an oxy.

IMG_0164.jpg

 

The steel in the base of this panel was very thin and rust affected, which has made repairs difficult. If you were really keen I think you would be just about better off fabbing up a new bottom section.

 

Cheers,

Dougal

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Turns out the welding was once again a bitch of a job and it warped a bit when my mate welded it up. I'm gonna head round on Saturday and see what we can acheive with some heat and some beating. These little jobs are holding me up a bit unfortuantely, which is frustrating when the rest is so close. Should be ready soon....

Steady as she goes.

  • Author

Hey guys,

I blasted my door hinges, and fuel-flap hinge round at a mates place tonight. Such an easy way to strip them ! ;)

 

Before:

100_2896.jpg

 

100_2899.jpg

 

Booth:

100_2902.jpg

 

100_2901.jpg

 

After:

100_2905.jpg

 

100_2904.jpg

They look great man! Was going to that with mine but couldnt be stuffed lol...

  • Author

Hinges have since been primed and I have worked at getting the new left gaurd straight. I have also bought a Rarespares patch section for the base of the gaurd. My spraypainter mate came round on Saturday and thankfully he was happy with what he saw ! (phew)

 

The plan now is for me to re-hang the left door, and we will weld in the new gaurd section after checking alignment with the door. From here we will spend the rest of the weekend going over a few areas he pointed out to me and then hit it all with the final lot of primer. My mate has said we will leave the car for 2-3 weeks after primer to allow it to dry a bit, because apparantley it is helpful for the primer to oxidise a little before topcoat. He has almost conviced me to lay a bit of pearl over the white to add a subtle twist, but not make the car look to outrageous and out there. My only worry is it might turn out like some disgusting riced Magna etc with a terrible pearl job. :) Having said this, I trust his skills and I think using a flat/true white instead of a cream/off white will help this. I understand this will make future touchups more challenging but I think it's a sacrifice I'm willing to take.

 

I'm starting to get excited now ! ;) :D Hopefully will look shit hot when we are done. :wink:

  • Author

Unfortunately this weekend was far less productive than I expected. My mates shed is full and so we were forced to work in the driveway. In typical Melbourne style we were battling with showers on and off all Saturday. All we acheived was a bit of "gapping up" panels and we popped out the front screen. My car now sits in his front yard covered in a shitty car cover, with at least an inch of water in the footwells :). Geeeee I hope he got around to pulling the drain plugs out today...

Hopefully we have better days of progress to come.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

G'day people,

 

The repair section is now welded into the gaurd, and the repair is looking far better than previous attempts. Unfortunately the donor gaurd I bought does not line up all that well on my car, when you have the door hung. This meant we chose to use the original gaurd. The rear frame on the original was quite rusted out, so we had to weld in the frame from the new gaurd and then the rares-repair section. This was quite time consuming but has reaped quite a good result.

 

We have spent quite a bit of time so far gapping panels up and twisting/bending to make things sit nicely. I beleive this will end up with a far better final result. I'm really learning some great tricks of the trade from my mate from our work so far. ;)

 

Excuse my mate's guestures! lol

100_3010.jpg

 

100_3011.jpg

 

Prior to gapping/adjusting

100_3012.jpg

 

Drivers door re-hung

100_3009.jpg

 

I have found that there is quite a bit of play in the drivers hinge, so this will need to be replaced or the hinge re-built. I spent time hanging the door and getting the lineup right, only for it to drop 10mm on me !

It's a tedious process but worthwhile..

 

Hopefully we will be back at it next weekend.

  • Author
Coming along chief, once it looks like a car again you will be suprised how motivated you will become!

 

JP

 

Yeah it does help morale when it actually has a few panels hanging !

Edited by Doogs

Nice work mate! Going Well!

I will have to try those repair panels, Way better than trying to make your own.

Does any one do those rear lower quarter sections?

Going for paint any time soon?

Keep up the good work!

  • Author
Nice work mate! Going Well!

I will have to try those repair panels, Way better than trying to make your own.

Does any one do those rear lower quarter sections?

Going for paint any time soon?

Keep up the good work!

 

Yeah they are not a bad option, it's a rarespares one and it was about $50.

This said, because they are from rares they don't fit perfectly and are not cheap !

Thankfully it was not too much trouble to fit, because of where we chose to take the cut.

  • Author

Tonight I went round to a mates place so I could use his Lathe and rebuild the flogged out door hinge.

Once dis-assembled I found that the shaft was worn and grooved, and so were the nylon bushes. I expect this is what was causing all the play in the hinge. To fix this I made up two new brass bushes and a new shaft to hold it all together. I'm pretty happy with the result and hopefully the problem is now fixed.

 

Old setup dis-assembled;

100_3013.jpg

 

New brass bushes;

100_3014.jpg

 

New assembly;

100_3019.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So the rolla is now undercover at another mates place and has been for a week now. Due to it sitting in the rain at my other mates, water got under the primer on the bonnet and it blistered up :hmm: . This meant it was critical for me to strip the bonnet bare, and so I have.

From here we also removed the rear screen and dropped the rear corner of the headlining so we could beat out a dent in the roof.

Whilst sanding the roof I found a few splotches of rust, so this was stripped bare as well.

 

From there we decided to start sanding the rear 1/4s and found that the left side had a hit in the past, and was filled with bog that was not adhearing well. My mate guessed that judging from the repair and paint we found this was done in the 80s.

We have decided not to risk painting over the numerous layers of paint on the car (some mine and some prior) and have begun to strip the car to original paint and bare steel. (We trust the original stuff a little more than later aplications).

So I'm slowly heading back to square-one :blinks:

 

We have also established that the car must have had a reasonable hit in the back. We decided this after inspecting the dents on both sides of the back of the car, the back valence panel, and the misalignment problems with the new bootlid. This will require a bit of careful work with a slide hammer, and sadly lengthens the project further. Although once again time spent sorting these issues will help produce a good final result.

 

It's a frustrating process undo-ing all my previous hard work, but it has to be done to get things right. I'm trying to relish the opportunity I have learing from my mate, and develop my skills as much as I can.

 

The bottom drivers hinge has also now been re-built because it had too much slop, like the top one.

 

100_3022.jpg

 

100_3039.jpg

 

An example of the rust under the paint;

100_3031.jpg

 

Rebuilt hinge;

100_3044.jpg

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