kangaroosa Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 I have an electronic distributor (nippon denso i think) fitted to a 5k motor, and it has two wires coming out of the body. I've been told that one is positive and one is negative. Can anyone tell me where each of the two wires should go? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 well just bolt the negative to ground and take the positive to a fuse or battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 It doesn't work like that with an electronic dizzy Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 But the way he described it sounds like just a power in??? thats what it sounded like to me (assuming all the work was done internally) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 5K isnt like that. Camry is the only one I can think of off the top of my head that has a coil built into the dizzy. Â My guess would be that one goes back to the coil earth and the other ive got no idea where it goes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickZ Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 one is positive ignition on,one is the negitive side of the coil (fires the coil) don't earth/ground it. its a reluctor dizzy. i can't remember the standard wiring colours....if you tell me the colours i might remember what goes where Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Jamie Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 if it's a 5k dizzy with internal ignitor, red goes to coil+, other goes to coil- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted January 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 Thanks guys - i took a punt, from what i've read and have already done what jamie suggested. The car runs great except for it running a little warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted January 9, 2005 Report Share Posted January 9, 2005 Is this with the new 5K? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted January 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 Yep, Its all running and goes good from what i have seen. Its still being run in so i havent giving it a hard time yet. But coming from a 4k to now a 5k, you can notice a heap more torque down low. The only problem i have with it, is that it runs pretty hot. The hottest the radiator temp got to was 96 degrees - which by the way, i don't think is too goood for the new motor - let alone any motor. Thats just over 3/4's on my temp gauge. Currently i have discarded the standard fan and installed a 12" high powered thermo fan, as reccomended by Davies Craig the manufacturer. So tommorow i am taking my spare radiator to get reconditioned and see what they can to do help me out with this problem. Worst case scenario, I will install the standard fan with the shroud and maybe mount the thermo fan infront of the radiator as a backup. There's now so much under bonnet heat and no constant fan to try and move some air around, under the bonnet. So i'm still thinking the problem through. I'm open to suggestions by the way. I might post a new topic later and see what other people have done to combat the problem. By the way, i'm not driving to and from work because i don't want to cook the most expensive part of my car. Hehe. So instead i'm driving my old mans XF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Jamie Posted January 10, 2005 Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 it's pretty well known that a factory engine fan and properly mounted shroud will cool better than any thermo fan. make sure all your hoses are going the right way, check the water pump isn't f@$ked or the belt slipping or too loose? a street motor is sposed to run a coolant temp of around 90C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted January 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 Thanks for the comment on the normal operating temp, i was actually wondering what a healthy temp was, now i know. Anyway the Water pump is brand new - Thermostat is brand new - No leaks - Fan Belt is tight. I'm pretty sure all the plumbing is correct except for the two heater hoses. I think they are right. The hose out the back of the head connects to the upper heater pipe (which has the tap built into the pipe). The lowerheater pipe is connected to hose that runs to an outlet on the left hand side of the water pump (if your looking at it from the front of the car). The main problem i noticed was that when i first filled the radiator up full and started the engine so it warmed up and so on - the water level never dropped in the radiator (which every other time it's has on previous motors). I opened the valve located on the front of the block to see if there was an airlock or something - but only coolant came out. Like you mentioned - I'll just run the standard fan and shroud once i get the radiator back from being reconditioned. If i find that its not enough (which it should be i guess) i'll look at mounting the thermo fan on the front of the radiator as a back up. What do you think?? Also i was wondering if there is anything that they can do to my radiator to help it cool better. I have mates with v8's and they used to talk about 3 core radiators or something down those lines. You think anything like that is possible for my radiator? OR do you know of something that bolts into my ke30 corolla and is more efficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demuire Posted January 10, 2005 Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 I got a 3-core put onto my end tanks for my KE35 Corolla, so yes it's possible. Not sure how much better it is, but with my thermofan and shroud I've never had any issues, running a 4AGE. The only time I've ever had the car running hot was on the skidpan where the car was sideways (less airflow) and revving at about 7000RPM constantly for about 5 minutes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted January 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 Correction - The water level did drop, but not as much as i expected, compared to my previous experiences with the 4k after replacing head gaskets. So i did have to top up the radiator (but not very much at all). A few hoses were leaking at the start, so water was getting circulated. Like i said previously, all leaks are now fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted January 10, 2005 Report Share Posted January 10, 2005 a street motor is sposed to run a coolant temp of around 90C Alebit thats probably an emissions thing. Circuit racing cars try to keep the temps much lower, around 60-70 degrees I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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