Justin the TRD upright K motor had a gear box with a 30 degree off set bell housing cast on it in my TRD book. So gear box still sat flat.

Cool, so that is obviously a custom made crossmember in the pic..

one of those custom cross members could be made very easily, so easy even i could do it :D 2 30deg wedges and a piece with the appropriate holes welded together then the complete wedge welded to a cross member= easy.

 

CHEERS

Ryan

a custome made bell housing for the box is a lot more complex than 2 30 degree wedges weldedon to the x membar or even finding a TRD 1.

so have many people done this oh and I'm not doing this for the side draft crap, that shit is a head f@$k, every time you want to tune it you have to pay through the ass to get it done + the cost of the system. i know it increases power and all, no shit, but i just don't think its worth it. i could set up an sc14 for less. not having a go or nothing just clarifying what my intentions are so this dosnt turn in to a post just on twin carbs.

 

as i was saying what kind of numbers of people would have this done, TRD or home made just curious on that?

I only know of 2 genuine upright kits and they are both from NZ.

 

Other setups I have seen are peoples own fabrications..

so all and all this is not a verry comon thing to do, that just makes it more fun. iv been reading through some of the old posts about this, none of them as detailed as this, and 1 says it has a power increas of 10-15hp and another says 20-30hp. as if id think 5hp at the most.

 

what do use think about this part of the conversion??? this should be good to see...

It is an excellent idea to get more clearance between the motor and the strut tower, I know my motor with twincarbs leaves bugger all room to get in even with the baby filters I have now..

 

In your case where you want to fit a turbo it will give you plenty more room to play with to set it up.

 

It would be interesting to see on a stock motor how much of a power increase it may actually give..

well just for giggles il just do that. il dyno a 4k stosk slant 30, than il do the 0 degree mods than dyno that without doing anything to the motor and il post that info up along with all the steps that i will take to make it stand upright. might be valuable info to some others in the future...

 

il be starting all this work in about 4 weeks from now...

Here are some pictures of the solid engine mounts

yea do a step by step on how u do it id be interested for sure. g/l with it all.

are those mounst fully soild with no rubber dampers at all?

 

CHEERS

Ryan

Edited May 11, 200818 yr by KE25 KID

They go on with rubber mounts too, those ones mount to the block and the rubber mount goes between them and the crossmember..

this is really sng do draw atention to you la ay. so tell me a little more about these engine mounts.

 

are these the ones il need to coppy?

do they use a rubber on it?

why is one differant to the other?

 

my plan was to make total custom mounts left and right and keep the engine as low as posible but 1/2" gap between the sump and the brace under it so as i don't damage something under reving upand down. my mounts will be simple and adgustable, just a little...

Yep, Those are genuine TRD uprite engine mounts, You will need to get a rubber mount to suit the ones you make up..

like i said pice of piss even if i have to carve the rubber...

if you look at the original mounts they're different anyway, the drivers side mount has a flat mount to block surface and the passenger side has the bottom mount boss further out than the top mount boss. as Medicine Man said above theres a rubber block thats bloted between the engine mount and the mount on the cross member.

 

CHEERS

Ryan