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Posted

Hi guys,

 

I'm looking at getting a ke10 or ke20 and wanted to look into what conversions there were available.

I don't want to put a older engine in there but i do want a turbo. I was looking at the sr20 and was wondering if there was much support for this?

Also if anyone has experience on how difficult it was to do and any recommendations.

If there were any other engine conversions that were good reliable engines that were easy/cheaper/ and less hassle to put in id definatly want to hear what you think.

Much appreciated!

Cheers

Adam

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Posted

don't go destroying a KE10 or KE20 by putting an SR20 in it. Anyway you can't engineer one in legally. Legally without engineering you can go 15% bigger than the original engine which usually means a 1300 4k, but you can sneek a 5k or 7k in if your carefull. :)

Posted

What engine is the 1300 4k?

I don't think it would destroy the car by putting a good engine in the sr20 is a great engine.

But if i can't get it engineered then ur right theres no point..

Is the 4k a old engine?? Cause i want a newer engine in there.

Cheers Gav

Posted (edited)

$10000 base to $20000 full resto total for ke20 with sr20det non road reg diy yourself all tools / skills

$10000 base to $20000 full resto total for ke20 with ca18det road reg diy yourself all tools / skills

 

add $15000 for drive in / drive out from workshop.

 

a rough idea of what you may want done:

 

motor halfcut

rwd engine conversion (might be needed)

custom mounts engine / custom mounts gearbox

gearbox tunnel replacement (might be needed)

shifter relocation (might be needed)

gearbox

tailshaft

wiring

diff

lsd

stud pattern conversion

aftermarket ecu

engine tuning

rust removal, new metal welded in

bodywork

wheels and tyres

new paint

new car components steering / suspension

seats

turbo new / reco / highflow

intercooler setup / boost controller / bov (if wanted)

brake upgrade

new interior

sound system (if wanted)

suspension springs / shocks / coilovers (if wanted)

 

yeah easy $10000 to $20000...

Edited by styler
Posted

15% Bigger for engineering in NSW? I don't know if any state has that law..?

 

NSW engineering states that for a turbo conversion, you multiply the RTA claimed weight of the car by 2.5. For n/a engine conversions you multiply the base weight by 4.

I.e. My cousin could register his RA23 with a 1JZ turbo'd or he could opt for the 1UZ and stay N/a...

 

I can also understand why some would say its destroying a car by replacing the factory n/a carbie 36kw motor with a 25 year newer engine, countless advances in technology, more after market support then almost any other motor available on the market. But i also think that that is something that comes down to your preferences and interests.

 

Personally, i'd much rather spend 2500$ on a SR20 and make an easy 150-180rwkw then spend 3 times that and possibly get 100rwkw out of a 4k, 5k or even another great toyota motor like a 3tgte. No doubt, if i had the fabrication skills to and a spare 10k laying around, i could go a beams 3sge or a full house 3sgte. But bang for buck, you really can't go past a sr20...

 

But if anyone on here has done the conversion, i'd appreciate what had to be done to fit it. I.e. Massaging tunnels and/or firewall.

 

Also, what sort of brake upgrades have people run? Do the ke10/20 share the same strut as any later celicas?

 

And what diffs have people chosen? are the ke10/20 leaf spring or spring and shock? Do they share any similarites with a ae86 rear end?

 

Cheers,

Adz

Posted
So you can engineer one in legally or you can't?

Is the weight of the ke10 or 20 less than 800kgs?

 

Cheers

A KE10 and KE20 weight less than 800kg. If you want to SR20 something much easier in a KE70.

Posted

Conversions on these models are not cheap/straightforward if that's what your after. The figures already quoted would be realistic of whats required. Do you have a budget in mind?

Any reason why you wouldn't just 4AGE/4AGZE/4AGTE? It's been done many times and can be made legal.

 

Best advice we can give you is to do a search, go through the rides and projects and see for yourself what others have done.

Posted

The reason would be because of better power and aftermarket support for a sr20 or ca18.

After the feedback i think the ca18 would be a better choice.

I will start reasearching into it .. thanks guys any other words of advice??

Posted (edited)

you will need a new driveline and new brake setup which also are big jobs...

have you done a budget on the whole project, it can add up quick :y:

as they say speed, reliability and cost... pick any 2.

 

i think the ca18det is a good choice for legal power/weight requirements, cheap to buy and for parts,

it does have some characteristic problems but so do a lot of motors. it makes a fair bit of power stock and can make

loads of power cheaply, just have to make the rest of the car to suit the power which can be expensive.

Edited by styler
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I agree that the best motor to keep it all legal is the ca18det it i a good basis for making decent power with only minor mods. My advice is go through the rides/ projects section aswell as engine conversions and find the info. I know that ke10hoon on this forum has done this swap into his ke10 so maybe chase him up and ask a few questions, The ke20 Sr conversion has been done a few times and my cousin is fortunate enough to have built one, it owes him well over 25 large and is a total wepon and it still runs the standard T25 turbo, unfortunatley there are not many engineer's willing to pass it. His is fully engineered and runs Borg warner rear end with commy stud pattern also cressida struts with RX7 brakes and much, much, more. :)

Posted

i'm in the process of fitting my ca18det back into my ke20 after finishing the engine mounts. i picked up all my parts very cheap ie trade or second hand and i'm owed about 10k. this has covered the car, a shortened t series disc rear end, engine & box, custom radiator, intercooler all the materials for the mounts and crossmember and a few other things like clutch & flywheel, oil seals and so forth. all fabrication and wiring has been done by myself or close friends. so basically if you do all the work yourself for 15 thousand you should be able to build a very nice car. its when you have to start paying proffesionals to work on your car that the cost blows right out the door.

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