YKE 20T

well done mate she ran straight and hard.

when I purchased my brake upgrade from hoppers stoppers i got them to supply a master cylinder to suit. they gave me a universal one that fits straight up. i'm led to believe its a 1inch master cylinder. its dual circuit and has individual reservoirs for each circuit. i don't know the part number but you could ring them and find out. its a bit longer than a standard cylinder and slightly taller due to the reseviours but it fits nicely and squeezes in next to my ca18. anyway just thought i'd let you know that they are out there and you should be able to find one to suit your needs

hi guys i built nathans (ke70-4kcz) supercharger mounts and his crank pulley. the ratio of the crank pulley to the superchargers 77mm pulley is such that the sc14 will spin at 10,800rpm when the crank is doing 7,500. i don't expect this 4k to see 7,500 too often so i don't think the sc14 is going to over rev at any stage. also the car has a good sized intercooler on the front so that extra heat shouldnt be a problem. Crostek where did you find the forged honda pistons? we where aware of the fact that 1g rods bolt in but where having probs finding a forged piston (apart from a custom set) that fit the 4k bore. some help in that department would be great.

thanks for that info. i only looked in the t series geatbox section of the faq. do you have the model numbers of the vehichles that use the k - t bellhousing. i'm told that the old liteaces had them.

hi everyone. what i would like to know is was there ever a cable clutch celica 5spd. i think the celica 5spds were t50's but i'm not sure. the reason i ask is i've been busy helping a friend build his sc14 powered 4k ke70. we've finished the install bar drilling the lid for the carburetter box and hooking up the fuel pump. its got the 77mmm pulley on the front and we are expecting some stoopid amounts of air to get pumped. anyway when it gets tuned and back on the road in the next few weeks i don't expect the gearbox to last long under the power or his shifting technique. was hoping there may have been a cable clutch celica 5spd we could adapt using a k 2 tseries bellhousing. if not how hard is it to convert the 70 pedal box so that it will use a clutch master cylinder. any info would be appreciated here's a pic i'me sure my mate wil post more as i think he has a thread running.

have been a it lazy lately should have uploaded some photos. i pulled the motor out and fabricated new engine mounts and gearbox crossmemeber. while the donk was out i put new front and rear main bearing seals in it aswell as a cromemoly flywheel and a cushioned bb clutch. bought a ross tufbond harmonic balancer and stainless exhaust manifold and dumppipe. fitted the motor a few months ago just have to bolt a few things back together and i'll be done down that end of the car. i do have to fix the transmission tunnel were the previous owner butchered it. i also bought a shortened t series disc rear end but i wont put that in untill i have bought some billet axles. anyway i'll upload some photos this evening. Ke20nut, the kmac strut tops were straight out of their catalouge and they went straight in without any modifications.

for the 4kz i'm helping my freind build for his ke70 we have gone down the path of making custom mounts for the charger and a custom outlet for the supercharger. we decided to go with a blow through set up using an xf carby and a small intercooler behind the grill. i've machined up a custom 8pk crank pulley to suit the 77mm 8pk snout pulley. were looking at making around 16psi at 6500rpm. we will see how long the stock 4k lasts but we have allready started building a hard 4k to drop in after our hour of fun. good luck with your project and i'll keep you posted. go the 4kz!!

was the centre locked? locked centres put increased strain on the axles causing them to snap. you could invest in a mechanical lsd and some billet axles. i'd be very suprised if you had any problems with that setup. it is going to be a bit pricey but you don't have to change housings etc.

hi guys. my freind and i started pulling his 4k apart last night. we giving it a little freshen up as its going to get some abuse via a sc14 blow through set up. the motor is in very good nic and doesnt require re boring just a light hone. now with the money saved from not having to head to the engine re conditioners we were planning to get some head work done. what is the best avenue of attack? we were planning on getting it ported by the local head joint (they have a good reputation) and may be a three angle valve job with bigger valves and stiffer springs. were can we get heavy duty springs and bigger valves or do we have to use parts out of a different motor. i know there is a few rally guys on here so feel free to crawl out from under your cars and point me in the right direction.

Hi guys. My freind and I are in the process of putting an sc14 on his 4k ke70. we've just bought an 77mm 8pk pulley of the net. i was just wondering what the standard diameter of the 1ggze crank pulley was as i'm going to machine a 8pk crank pulley to our application and i don't want to over boost it more than it allready will be. Cheers in advance.

truly beautifull

it always starts out small lol. the next thing you know you've spent 12 months and 10 grand and still arent finished lol. good fun though. realisticly budget 5k and you should be able to get all the neccesary stuff completed.

thanks for that guys.

thanks for that.

hi everyone. just a quick question. i'm chasing down wheel bearings and discs for my JDM t series (kouki wide bearing) rear end. i've searched around on the net for discs but have come up short. i also rang a couple of local parts stores but i just ended up having to explain to them what a t series was and that they did come with discs in japan. i don't even know where to start with the bearings. does anyone else have this diff if so where did you get youre disc and bearings from? Cheers

i'm in the process of fitting my ca18det back into my ke20 after finishing the engine mounts. i picked up all my parts very cheap ie trade or second hand and i'm owed about 10k. this has covered the car, a shortened t series disc rear end, engine & box, custom radiator, intercooler all the materials for the mounts and crossmember and a few other things like clutch & flywheel, oil seals and so forth. all fabrication and wiring has been done by myself or close friends. so basically if you do all the work yourself for 15 thousand you should be able to build a very nice car. its when you have to start paying proffesionals to work on your car that the cost blows right out the door.

i went to the local soccer club for lunch and they had chicken schnitzels for $2. i ate two. i'm fairly impressed with my four dollar lunch

love the exhaust out the side. keep up the good work.

whatever name you refer to it as it is pure porn.

some good points. i'll have to investigate what is allowed for the hillclimb but seam welding from the towers back looks on the cards.

i suspect the mig will be fine i just wanted to clarify that it wasnt some awesome space age alloy or crome moly before i try to find / order some.

yours should fit as the 13b would sit a bit lower in the engine bay than the ca18 in my car. the main problemm with mine is the slant of the ca. the top of the inlet manifold is higher than the head. don't think ous was the t3 as we got ours from the states.

did you use a mig or a tig welder? i have a mig so i just want to be sure that i can weld the pipe before i go and buy any.

yeah i was considering doing something similar in the boot of the 20. i've got a strut brace that i got off here through a group buy but i don't think it will clear the inlet manifold of the ca18. thats what spurred me in to action. i think i will investigate you're rear brace idea as well as adding to the spots on the chassis rails. thanks for the input and watch this space lol

hi guys i have been doing a bit of thinking and searching on the internet in regards to some chassis bracing for my ke20 while i've got the motor (ca18) out. i don't want a roll cage as i intend to get the car registered but i want to hit wakefield and the local hill climb regulalrly. i was thinking of making up some bracing for the strut towers. i was planning to run some bracing (25mm tube) fordward from the tower to the chassis rail and also from the towers to the firewall (about 15 to 25 degrees inwards on this one). what bracing do people have in there veichles? i own a mig and am pretty handy with it so i'm looking for good ideas. what sort of rear bracing do people have? anything between the strut towers? i'm looking for any bracing ideas that don't involve putting a full cage in. thanks in advance.