YKE 20T

thanks for that i'll have a look into getting some new wheels at tax time i tink

what offset are you're rims? do they clear the front struts or did you have to use spacers? just wondering as i have pondered getting some 16's or 17's for the street and keeping my 15's for track work.

very nice i like the bracing on the strut towers. you've inspired me to do something very sinmilar to my ke20 while i have the mototr out. what did you use for the braceing? just mild steel pipe or something exotic?

i got the kit from a company in outer Melbourne called hoppers stoppers. just Google them and have a browse on their website. its a pretty professional kit i 'm pretty happy with it.

hey mate. i've put a ca18det into my ke20 and i found there is no need to modify the crossmember you just need to make new mounts for the engine. i don't think there would be much point in making a new crossmember as i suspect the gearbox would foul on the steering arms (the one that links the box to the lhs). as for brakes you can go with later model corolla or celica stuff, the s13 conversion or you can pay the money for the hoppers stoppers kit which is 285mm discs and twin piston a calipers with custom hubs and caliper brackets. i went this option but it did cost me 1400 bucks. and if you are going to the trouble of upgrading brakes i would seriously consider rebuilding the entire front suspension ie ball joints, tie rods, swaybar bushes, swaybar link bushes, raduis rod bushes and lower inner bushes as the oem stuff is at least 34 years old and most likely shagged. you will need to budget at least 1.6 to 2 grand for an lsd conversion as the ke20 diff doesnt last very long. if you want pics of mounts and anything else just pm me and i'll sort it out. and if you search the website their is a thread by me with a heap of photos showing front end rebuild. this project should keep you entertained for years. its kept me busy and broke lol.

i really wish that we had 2 door ke70's in Australia. the 2 door looks so sweet.

that really is commitment lol

thats the one i was referring to. can't say i have eaten one sober but they rock at 430am saturday mornings

i'm with raven go the hero!!!!!

i can see this thread digressing into childish insults lol love the internet

i am so jelous. i couldnt afford a mig so i bought myself a little oxy set to make myself feel better. love your work its going to be a quick little unit whenits done.

thats pretty cool. love the flares. keep us posted will be interesting to watch your progress

that is officialy insane. well done jamming the 1uzfe in there.

they are reasonably cheap to buy as a half cut and have plenty of potential to make good power. Putting a ca18 in wouldnt be the worst idea floated on this forum.

lol i can assure it is still alot of fu#%ing around. i some times wish i had just built a spastic 5 or 7kte instead of going the ca. but i guess once its finished i'll be a very happy man. at least the 4age leaves a bit more room the ca is a tight fit. buy a ke20 and i can answer all your questions lol. with my car they appear to have scavenged a cross member off of something else i suspect its the s13 one cut and shut. if you use the 4ac crossmember that will make fabbing engine mounts easier as you wont have one with a strange angle and position. the drivers side on mine is hectic couldnt make it out of plate had to machine it from a solid piece of tool steel.

it might not be a go cart but it should boogy in a straight line. how long did it take you to cram the commo v6 in?

i'd sell you my ke20 with the simmons ca18det installed and running (but no diff/tailshaft) and engineered for 6K. if you really want it just turn up late one night with a flat tray or car trailer and "procure" the said item. not that i would advocate this sort of behavior lol

i think there are a couple of people on here that have 4age ke20's so if they pop up they should be able to answer your engine related questions

unfortunately there aren't any bolt in diff upgrades for the ke20. i started a topic on this a few weeks back and came to the conclusion that you either have to go the expensive route of getting a housing shortened or use a t series housing and install flares (diff is wider and hence wheels protrude past gaurds). with the brakes i just went the hoppers stoppers kit. its huge (285 rotors with twin piston falcon calipers) and you only need 15's to clear it. bolts straight onto the struts. $1400 is a lot of money but writing off your car because you couldn't pull up in time will be slightly more expensive lol. can't help with the 4age questions as i have a ca18det in my car. just fits in and required a bit of ingenuity and customization ie: engine mounts gearbox cross member.

I think a quote from the movie " the castle" is appropriate.... "tell him he's dreaming"

interesting. i would love 17's on my 20. i guess with the right offset and some spacers you could get them to fit. something to add to my large to do list lol.

i abuse my internet priviliges at work by frequenting the site and avoiding any substantial work. i think CTC is Canberra Toyota Club

that would explain why he isnt advertising anymore. i've just got to finish my engine mounts and whack the motor back in and i'll get him around to give some guidence on all the little niggly issues.

i'm fairly certain that marloc does both nsw and act as he was listed on the rego act website. i'll email jhon wilson but i looked again and couldnt find his yellow pages add which is a bit sus.

hi guys hope youre all busy working on your rollas. just wanted to know if anyone had dealt with an automotive engineer in the act? my freinds have used AKZ engineering but i had heard he was retiring and he no longer has an add in the yellow pages which makes me suspect that the rumor was true. i did a bit research and there are two other engineers listed, Marloc engineering and a mr ray spence from canberra motor works. has any one dealt with these guys?