redae71 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 i agree with the idea of ignition module or crank angle sensor... when you say it jerks under heavy load is it a missfire or boost surge? when a factory computer sees overboost it will cut timing right back which can cause that problem... use a gauge connected to your wastegate actuator and see what pressure it opens at and compare that to factory spec... crank angle sensors are known to break down when they are faulty and heat up... if there is a correlation in the signal coming from the sensor, the car will not start as ckp signal is one of 4 base signals needed to run any engine... use an oscilliscope to check the signal under cold start then when the car shuts down again, crank it and see what sort of signal is coming out... hope this helps you a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Thanks for the help folks... UPDATE: We changed the whole distributor with one from the wreckers off a corolla which had only done 50,000ks. The car was driving for prob about 150ks and never played up once, and then with no warning, it shut down again - same as before. Basically we've narrowed it down to: -anywhere (stationary with engine idling or while driving along in gear) -anytime (day or night, hot or cold, rain or shine) -without warning (car doesn't jerk, no lights flicker and nothing bizarre happens - it just shuts down) -its like something in the electrics sends a signal as if you've turned the ignition off and it kills the spark and the injector pulse -if you go to start the car straight away the engine light wont come on with the rest of the lights on accessories and it cranks but doesn't fire -if you wait a few moments and then go to start the car the engine light will be on with the read of the lights on accessories and it will start -then it could run fine for how ever long it chooses until it shuts down again and the cycle continues... People who have looked at it seem to think that its the actual computer internally which may be causing a problem... somewhere, somehow... So we might have to remove the computer and ignition switch and send them to Toyota for a look... Not really sure yet. In other news: I'm in the market for a daily driver... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 i bet toyota let out a big sigh of relief that these cars didn't sell very well when they saw most of them coming back for repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 i bet toyota let out a big sigh of relief that these cars didn't sell very well when they saw most of them coming back for repairs. They only released 110 for SALE, so its not that they didn't sell well, they were limited to start with... How do you know they've had 'most of them coming back for repairs'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) They only released 110 for SALE, so its not that they didn't sell well, they were limited to start with... How do you know they've had 'most of them coming back for repairs'? because both terminal and soulsearcher have had problems with their sportivos :cool: and now yours, so thats 3 of the 100 sold to the public, that we know of on this board that have had problems :2thumbs: there were 110 built, 10 were apparently used for crash testing, and 100 for sale. i went searching for terminals thread about the problem he had and believe it or not but yours sounds the same if not similar to terminals problem and it turned out to be the cars computer had crapped its self, click the link below for the thread. Terminals problem Edited February 2, 2009 by MYSTIK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 i know they were sold in limited numbers, but apparently they took a long time to sell with many dealers struggling to move the ones they had bought for stock. Didn't Soulsearcher have ECU problems too? If i remember right she was lucky it was under warranty otherwise it would have been cheaper to replace with a Haltech or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 i don't think lesley(soulsearcher) has had problems with the ecu, i know the motor and turbo were replaced, and the latest is that the stock turbo manifold has cracked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redae71 Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 -anywhere (stationary with engine idling or while driving along in gear)-anytime (day or night, hot or cold, rain or shine) -without warning (car doesn't jerk, no lights flicker and nothing bizarre happens - it just shuts down) -its like something in the electrics sends a signal as if you've turned the ignition off and it kills the spark and the injector pulse -if you go to start the car straight away the engine light wont come on with the rest of the lights on accessories and it cranks but doesn't fire Crank angle sensor refer my previous post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulSearcher Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 (edited) i don't think lesley(soulsearcher) has had problems with the ecu, i know the motor and turbo were replaced, and the latest is that the stock turbo manifold has cracked. uh, the 2nd exhaust manifold has cracked, the first one had too, and the 2nd one after 14 months, possibly some time earlier, cause who really would take the heat shield off regularly to check it??? No ECU problems (yet - touch wood) Edited February 4, 2009 by SoulSearcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYSTIK[RL] Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 (edited) Crank angle sensor refer my previous post have a read of terminals post from his thread and tell me its a CAS, the problem he had was/is almost the same as sportivo_65's problem. plus i would be pulling the ecu out and taking the back off of it to see if there are any leaking capacitors. I've got an AE112R Sportivo Turbo, and while driving it likes to turn itself off. showed this to mechanic and NRMA dude, neither of which have any idea yet. it's still at the mech, but if i could get an easy fast solution it means i can get it back on the road. Basically after about 5 - 10 minutes of driving the car cuts out, as if i turned it off. if i turn the key to off, then back on again it will crank over. It doesn't get affected by the way i drive, either grandma like or takumi drift style. Anywho, i'm just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem before. I'm thinking either faulty ignition barrel or distributor/ignition coil. let me know your thoughts guys. Leshy oh, and lesley i only thought one manifold had cracked, guess i miss-heard you :cool: so can you :P next time to make sure I'm listening :party: Edited February 3, 2009 by MYSTIK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 Been doing some reading.. here is a quick check you can do. Been typing this for the last.. good few hours, so sorry for any.. gaps. hahah. Pull out the ECU, Open it up, and get a magnifying glass & check over the ECU for any forms of Capacitor leakage that would run over the circuit board. The Computer system in the 112 isnt the most advanced, realistically people need to remember that fault codes are only set when the computer see's that a variable is set outside of the set parameters = Meaning that because its a basic system, there are not too many parameters to start with... Unless a particular component is causing a direct issue, and operating outside of those factory programed specs, then the computer would have no reason to set a fault code = in its eyes there are no issues. Its amazing how many people think that if there is a problem, the computer simply "Tells you" whats wrong. Its anything from that, 95% of the time. These non-Gen auto-elec's are using non-gen Tech Tools.. I don't know how much that can access. But i do know, if you take it to a Toyota Dealership, the Proper IT2 unit will read quite alot of data. Anything can pull out a check code, but weather or not all these other tools can read the data, Access Freeze Frame data & Operate active Data... *shrugs* With the Immob.. Well, i can't really comment on it - but in a normal application, once the transponder ecu has received the signal from the correct Key to say Yes, thats me, car will start - Car simply starts when key operated correctly. If you have a Simple blank cut key in the ignition, and you hold up the transponder from another working key to the base of the ignition barrel with the blank key in the ignition (ie. tape the base of a working master key to the blank cut key in the ignition) then the car will start. Why am i saying this? because once the car is started, you can take the transponder key away when the car is running, and it keeps running. How do i know this? ive tried it several times for various diagnostic and service fix's. No, it doesn't help you steel a car, because unless you have that working transponder key, nothing happens :P Back to the problem at hand. Its good to see everyone trying to help out, but unless you have actually had some practice at playing around with these sorts of problems, it is VERY easy to go off onto a guessing-educated duck hunt-tangent. lol. To orangeLJ - Re "I wouldnt take it to a dealership, most of the time they will just plug it into a computer and then stand and scratch their head when it doesnt tell them what to do." - You Really have little to no clues as to what happens behind the scenes. Comments like that are a little to generalistic for my liking.. Toyota at Kedron is close enough to where the car is atm. I cannot guarantee that it will be a quick fix process, but the branch has 2 of the most switched on Toyota Tech's in QLD - On top of that, Toyota Access & Support because its a Toyota Dealership. Ie. A solution to problems within reason. There is hope yet :cool: T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted February 3, 2009 Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 Toyota at Kedron is close enough to where the car is atm. I cannot guarantee that it will be a quick fix process, but the branch has 2 of the most switched on Toyota Tech's in QLD - On top of that, Toyota Access & Support because its a Toyota Dealership. Ie. A solution to problems within reason. There is hope yet :cool: T How do you know all that :P 'sarcasm' must work for toyota... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redae71 Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 how many other sensors can make a car shut down? depending on the setup, ckp, cmp, water temp sensor, tps... unless there is a problem with the CAN BUS system... yes also ecu damage, but normally when an ecu is damaged (capacitors etc) the problem will not be intermittent, it will be there all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 how many other sensors can make a car shut down? depending on the setup, ckp, cmp, water temp sensor, tps... unless there is a problem with the CAN BUSsystem... yes also ecu damage, but normally when an ecu is damaged (capacitors etc) the problem will not be intermittent, it will be there all the time Caps are liquid cooled, When the leak they over heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 No, Cap leakage can be an intermittent problem depending on how sever it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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