I see the biggest problem in your setup. The 32/36 weber. They work best on 1.8 to 2.3L motors. A little 1.3L 4K does not generate enough vacuum for proper carb venturi signal strength, especially in the idle to midrange.

 

A weber like a 32/32 DGV or 28/36 DCD would give you a lot more low end torque and throttle response. Either one would bolt to your existing adapter plate, plus changing the diff gearing will make your car go MUCH better.

 

Have you tried a stock carb at all? With some rejetting and a decent filter, it would probably give better allround performance then your 32/36 at the expense of a couple of HP in the top end.

Edited February 20, 200917 yr by Felix

what do you think is the best gearing ratio

 

its got the 4speed but i wanna change it to 5 and standard diff i guess your talking diff ratio ?

 

how much for that

 

 

 

also i spent a bit of money on the weber the shop guy said its the best one for the car

 

I'm sick of this people trying to get my money

 

so i wanna keep it if i can but

 

i need to know about the 3k head for more compression 11.1

Well you've probably finally found the right place for doing things on the cheap!

 

Lower the better as far as gearing goes for your setup. I'm not sure what the standard diff ratio in a KE55 is. The might be lower in the auto's? I'm sure someone will pipe up.

 

Last 5 speed cost me about $70 from a u pull it. :D

 

A bit more for a diff centre I think.

 

Two choices for compression. Head shaving, or 3k head. A 3k head might send you backwards with smaller ports, so I'd probably want to check that out before swapping.

 

If you shave you also have to adjust the rocker towers. Check out "How to build a tough K motor" in the FAQ. It will tell you a lot.

 

I'm with felix, I'm not sure the DGV was the best choice, despite your mechanic.

yea i think you might be right do you guys know how hard it is to make engine mounts

 

 

i might drop a 253 or some thing in it there so cheap and so many parts

 

or a 12a rota

:D I thought all the kiddies where back at school now!? :P

:D I thought all the kiddies where back at school now!? :P

 

Home-school?

 

Or maybe just during computer-science periods....

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but the reason a cam has a recommended compression ratio is because of the loss of dynamic compression due to overlap? He's probably better off with lower compression for bottom end driveability, more comp will just bring out the high revving nature of the cam even more.

 

Get a new cam from the wreckers (30 bucks) and an entry level (110 bucks). Done and dusted. Or you could just put a standard camshaft back so it's driveable while you spend your evenings researching Volumetric efficiency.

 

It sounds like your carby has been set up correctly, at least I would assume so given you paid a professional to build it correctly. How did you tune the carby, and what timing have you set?

 

 

:D :P

 

Depends if you're paying by the hour or go to the right part of town and you might get one for half a pack of ciggies.

If you're married - Anything with diamonds in it!! :yes:

 

Could cost you a house and the kids as well.

 

also i spent a bit of money on the weber the shop guy said its the best one for the car

We're sick of people making dumb decisions without the proper research then complaining about it. If you told him you want hot street performance, he gave you what you asked for.

 

yea i think you might be right do you guys know how hard it is to make engine mounts

 

 

i might drop a 253 or some thing in it there so cheap and so many parts

 

or a 12a rota

 

If you want people taking more of your money, either of these 2 options will suffice. Difficult, costly and expensive.

Edited February 20, 200917 yr by philbey

this might help !

 

My son had the same problem ! have ya got a roll master in there! if so advance the cam 2deg(or x1 hole)can give it a go ..it moved the power range fron 5000-8,000 down to 3000-7000 rpms for us .(runs heep better from idle)

some large cam can move 4deg adv and bee fine

Try using Firefox instead of internet Explorer.

 

It blocks spam and popups better and it has a spell check.

 

With the cam issue, rev its tits off, or get a standard cam.

correct me if I'm wrong but i thought the point of this forum thing was so some one like me can ask quesions and get answers

 

no I'm a I.T student.

 

so put it this way me working on cars to me is like you trying to use group policy on a windows sever

 

but I'm happily learning

 

so please be help full

No need for this thread to get out of hand guys. Quite a few people have contributed suggestions. Don't take the light ribbing to heart.

 

You have a few options to try now you need to make the decision what to do.

correct me if I'm wrong but i thought the point of this forum thing was so some one like me can ask quesions and get answers

 

no I'm a I.T student.

 

so put it this way me working on cars to me is like you trying to use group policy on a windows sever

 

but I'm happily learning

 

so please be help full

 

Unfortunately I think it's a bit of a case of not exactly knowing what you're in for when you answered the question. All I can think of is Hitch Hikers Guide, and the answer 42.

 

It sounds like they gave you what you asked for, a big road cam. Unfortunately you didn't quite understand what this means in the big picture. to give you an idea, it's possibly a touch more aggressive as the cam I had in my $3000 3K rally motor. That price doesn't include carburation. (I haven't stuck the cam specs through the calculator, so that's a rough guess......)

 

To get the most out of it, You'd really be wanting to hit the list Styler put up pretty hard. I ran a 4.5 diff, and small tyres as well. It was also not a friendly car around town.

 

I personally think that you may need to pull that one out, sit it on the shelf for now, and stick a milder grind in. That way you can develop the engine further, without pushing the boundries to try and make it work with the cam.

 

A wise old man told me that alot of people "over cam" their engines. I think this may be a good example.

 

In short, IMHO, swallow your pride and pull it out.

Edited February 20, 200917 yr by Redwarf

All I can think of is Hitch Hikers Guide, and the answer 42.

 

Pisser.

 

chappo, at 110 bucks a shot, swapping different cam grinds in and out of K motor is by far and away one of the cheapest, simplest and fastest way to fiddle with your performance. With practice you should be able to swap one in under an hour.

 

Compare that with these sort of prices for other apparent easy performance upgrades (if done properly)

 

- Carb change 500-1000 bucks for any sort of reasonable large single/twin setup like Webers, dellortos, twin sprinter carbs

- Head work - 300 bucks for a quick port tidy up (ie skimming off the flashing and maybe a bit of a polish)

- Turbo setup - 400 bucks if you do the hard yards yourself like Taz with hours of home development, fabrication and research

 

Best bet now, read up on Cam theory. Try get a good idea of the following aspects: Duration, Overlap, Lift, Degreeing Cams, Phase. Then go into your cam grinder and you're set!

 

Plus, you could probably flog off your cam to someone on here anyway.

yea thats the best thing to do i think

 

any one got a spare cam for sale ??????????????????????

hay i found a ke 70 motor and box for $200

i wanna get it but i wanted to no if the ke70 4k has a 5 speed