alfa carbys!! be careful. most of these carbys are good BUT they is a couple of types that are a problem.

the type of dellortos u want are the universal type. on the carb where it has dhla40

there is a letter after that u want the one that has a C or E (universal performance non-emission) if its got the letters F.G.H.L or N this is emission type it can be used but its a little harder to tune

 

i suggest if your going for webers of dellortos go and buy this book: how to build & power tune weber & dellortos(second or third edition). it gives u jet sizes,chokes sizes,which carb to get & how to tune them your self

 

hope this is of some help

Thanks TRD, i'll make sure that i look out for those stamped letters on the carb.

 

What happened to all the carbs in the trading post? Years ago there used to be lists of them -Now there is one dellorto 40dhla for $250.

Not even a weber in sight.

i have that book somewhere. i was looking for it earlier on in this thread, but it's in a safe place, even i can't find it :D

 

edit: found it :P i also have a program on my garage page called jetting.exe which you put in your engine and rpm and it gives you a very accurate base tune for twin sidedrafts. 1496cc at 7500rpm it reckons 36mm chokes and 145 fuel jets for max power, 34mm chokes and 140 fuel jets for max flexibility. gives full emulsion tube and air jet and idle jet and idle air specs too

 

see here: http://www.superjamie.net/garage/

Edited April 24, 200521 yr by Super Jamie

LOL -Street Rod, I love it. - I used to race home from school to play that game.

7500RPM seems pretty high (but you know your stuff) - I don't think i have taken any of my motors that high. 6000-6250RPM and the engine sounds like its going to start spitting parts out - hehe.

 

I went for a more modest 6500RPM - 1544cc -Best Power

Weber 40 DCOE - 33mm chokes - 135 mains

i've seen my tacho needle point to about 8200rpm.....thats about the time you go for the key if you can't control the acclerator....(acclerator cable got stuck)

 

it didnt even seem like it was going to valve bounce....and thats with single springs......

piece of shit stock carby won't rev past 8500 on mine :P

 

cafee's ke30 has a 4k, very similar to mine and teddy's, with a pretty well modded aisan. his throttle cable stuck down, so he braked and it's pushing the locked front wheels down the street, so he clutched in and his monster tach hit 10.5 :D people said it sounded like a motorbike accident

10500rpm without any holes in the block. Not a bad effort, without even trying hehe.

That reminds me - I gotta buy a new Tacho. Mine hasnt worked ever since i swapped over to electronic ignition with the 5k. I emailed VDO numerous times and didnt even get a reply. The tacho is about 10years old - so i guess it wouldnt hurt to upgrade.

maybe the problem with the DGV, is a blown powervalve diaphram. i had this problem when i was running a 32/32DGV (think 24/25 mm chokes from memory) for a while last year, on a 4k. when the diaphram goes it makes the carb run hell rich, as it thinks it is at full load all the time. i wouldn't have realised except that i had just fitted an O2 sensor and a fuel mixture display.

 

i found a 28/36 DCD weber gives much more stable AF readings than a DGV. i am still currently running my DCD on my warm 5k with 25/65 cam. the DCD gives awesome lowend throttle response with 25/ 27 mm venturis. the venturis are replacable in a DCD. the same carb ran really sweet on my previous 4k with 25/25 venturis.

a 28/36 DCD will bolt straight onto a DGV adaptor plate.

 

i wouldnt bother with a single side draft. i'd try to either find a decent downdraft setup, or go twin SU for a road car. or if it is a weekend competition machine go twin sidedrafts.

Thanks felix for the info.

I'll leave it to the more knowledgable guys on here for an opinion on that.

I'm still kickin back taking it all in, and weighing up my choices from everyones opinions.

 

Twin SU's - From the pics i've seen, it doesnt look like the SU's have the same bolt pattern as DCOE's. So what manifold do people use for the su's - If it custom, you can scratch the idea of SU's.

I just found this site. Its "Lynx Manifolds and Adaptors".

Theres two manifolds for corolla's:

Twin 1 1/2" SU's and Twin DCOE Webers. (not sure if the SU manifold is for "K" motors).

 

http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/ourproducts/pdf...posals.htm#LYNX

 

or

 

http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/

to fit sidedrafts you use a sidedraft manifold, to fit SUs you use an SU manifold :P lynx manifold M117 is what i have

Just thought that i'd add the latest prices for Redline intake manifolds and linkages to suit "K" motors for anyone else looking to go down this path.

 

Twin DCOE Manifold and Linkages Prices

Manifold P/No.12-3062 $222.96

Linkage Kit P/No.42-2562 $153.74

 

Single DCOE Manifold and Linkage Prices

Manifold P/No. 12-3112 $226.99

Linkage Kit P/No.42-2612 $101.99

 

I can't justify or afford the cost of setting up twin carbs at the moment. So i think i'm going with a single DCOE on the redline manifold. I figure its gotta be better than a standard carby on the original corolla manifold.

su manifold price?

Lynx SU Manifold Prices

Part No.M117 Induction Manifold TOYOTA Corolla 2 1-1/2" SU's

Ex GST $100

Incl GST $110.00

RRP. $210.00

 

Lynx Twin DCOE Weber Manifold Price

Part No. M120 Induction Manifold Corolla 1100 1200cc 2 DCOE Webers

Ex GST $180

Incl GST $198.00

RRP. $295.00

 

Product Listing and Prices for Lynx Corp.

http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/ourproducts/pdf...posals.htm#LYNX

 

The following quote was an answer from the sales division at Lynx in relation to whether they had any carbs that they could ship with the manifold to complete the set.

"At the moment we only have a pair of 40 DCOM Weber Carburettors as new 40 DCOE's are very hard to obtain, the 40 DCOM come complete with some linkages and are priced at $1,700.00 so you may find it better to shop around and try and buy some 40 DCOE's second hand".

Edited April 26, 200521 yr by kangaroosa

i'd be buying SUs :D