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Advice For Stubborn Head Bolt

Featured Replies

Hi guys,

I have been stripping down a 5K with a blown head gasket and I am down to the last bolt. The head of the bolt has been slightly rounded as though someone has used an open ended spanner to loosen it before. Anyway, I have been using every inch of my strength to crack the seal of this extremely tight bolt and still have not gotten anywhere. I have used a socket with an extension bar and still nothing. The socket now seems to be starting to slip a little and I REALLY need to find an adequate way of getting this bolt off. I was thinking of using a rattle gun unless anyone can suggest something more appropriate.

 

Any thoughts?

try using a smaller socket and don't use a rattle gun on head bolts.

use single hex sockets for better grabbing of bolt heads.

  • Author
try using a smaller socket and don't use a rattle gun on head bolts.

use single hex sockets for better grabbing of bolt heads.

 

Yeah no worries, smaller how so? if it fits a 14mm reasonably firm what would you go to? and why not use a rattle gun?

Yeah no worries, smaller how so? if it fits a 14mm reasonably firm what would you go to? and why not use a rattle gun?

next size down or 1/2 inch socket.

rattle gun will spin too fast and it will round the head bolt,do it slow and steady!

  • Author
next size down or 1/2 inch socket.

rattle gun will spin too fast and it will round the head bolt,do it slow and steady!

 

Yeah no worries, so past using what muscles I have, what else can I use/Do?

I say one of them things kinda like a welder but it blows blue flames. I don't remember what its called, obviously.

 

 

Oxy torch?

 

 

We used one on a stubborn bolt on my exhaust, don't know if it would damge the head though.

I say one of them things kinda like a welder but it blows blue flames. I don't remember what its called, obviously.

 

 

Oxy torch?

 

 

We used one on a stubborn bolt on my exhaust, don't know if it would damge the head though.

 

Yes that would damage the head.

 

Like Red said, you need more leverage. Use a long breaker bar with either a trolley jack handle or water pipe or something that will fit over the breaker bar to get more length and leverage. Watch that you are not slipping on the bolt head though, as the resulting release of pressure could be interesting when you slip. :P

i had a similar problem with my 4age that ive just taken apart, went to bunnings and found these special sockets that have heaps of teeth, multi fit sockets i think theyre called.

they grab pretty good on semi-rounded bolts, 28 bux for the set of 8 but well worth it.

i had a similar problem with my 4age that ive just taken apart, went to bunnings and found these special sockets that have heaps of teeth, multi fit sockets i think theyre called.

they grab pretty good on semi-rounded bolts, 28 bux for the set of 8 but well worth it.

 

You'll find out soon enough that 12-point sockets will actually round bolts/nuts faster than 6-point...the main reason for 12-point ones is to double the number of starting-points for tight situations (especially on non-ratcheting spanners)

^^^^ Agreed. :hmm:

 

Deffinately use a "single-hex" socket as mentioned above. With a big breaker bar....... and a old matress behind you!! :(

 

Oxy torch (gas-axe lexxi :P ) + Alloy head = hot puddle!!!

 

Oh and maybe also give the head of the bolt a light tap with a hammer, not to the point where you damage the head of the bolt though. Sometimes the jolt will give thread a bit of a free-up. And soaking it in WD40/CRC etc might also help.

Edited by Taz_Rx

  • Author

Sweet, thanks guys,

Respray pics and mods coming soon too

Hi,

Just use an impact driver if you have one.

 

I find they remove any old bolt I can find on a rolla that has refused to move with a normal breaker bar.

 

Few hits and it is lose.

 

Cheers

Cameron

You'll find out soon enough that 12-point sockets will actually round bolts/nuts faster than 6-point...the main reason for 12-point ones is to double the number of starting-points for tight situations (especially on non-ratcheting spanners)

 

actually these sockets I'm talking bout arent standard 12 points, they are a weird design that really does work, they have a sort of square-ish point instead of triangle and they grip the bolt like its welded on..

 

i agree with using an impact driver, just don't use cheap one

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