LukeAE71 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 have you considered 3sgeI'm running one in my panelvan and it puts out the same power if not more than my gze AW11 did I gather from your rides thread that the previous owner did this conversion. Do you have any idea on the costs to do something like this?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roo Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 you can't compare a na 20v to a turbo 4age and a turbo or supercharged 4age needs a better gearbox then a t50 so by the time you work out the figures you might as well get a ca/sr dropped in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36panvan Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I gather from your rides thread that the previous owner did this conversion. Do you have any idea on the costs to do something like this?? Good thought, 3sge conversion =$$$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stixy Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 thanks to all who helped with there input. it has helped alot. so its a no bingo on the 20v and a basic coin flip between 4agte and 4agze or even a worked 4age...... oh its going to take some more reaserch i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budowski Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I'm looking into the 3sge I'm guessing it will cost about 4k all up doing the work myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I'm looking into the 3sge I'm guessing it will cost about 4k all up doing the work myself If you were going to all the effort of the 3SGE is there any reason why you would not go the extra to a 3S GTE?? Since Stixy you have said no go on the 20 Valve does anyone want to give a rough guide to costs for a 4AGZE. The motor alone would have to be $1500 or so at Importers prices. It also depends on how much you can do yourself Stixy.... :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trav_555 Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I'm building a na 4age I'm aiming for anything over 200hp at the fly 304 cams, 11:1 compression, itb's, all the good shit then once off p's its gonna be high boost 4agte So depends how much shit you want to come out of your pants when you put your foot down really :dance: Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmac80 Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 20vt is a good option. the silvertop share the same rods as the ae101 gze so it has the beefiest rods etc. the high compression is downer for turbo but.... a fella on club 4age has been running 14.3psi for over a year now on stock compression, pistons etc he has only done work to his exhaust side of things. and with that he's making 220kw atw,!! but even that pushing it. a silvertop will handle 7-9 psi all day long on stock internals.... not saying from experience but from lots and lots of research. and that will give you approx 150rwkw. td04 would be a good turbo. the 16v is more torquey. but the silvertop isn't... although if you go aftermarket ecu and have the vvt switch on earlier you will make the power and more torque a lot earlier on. my thoughts are..... 16v is more simple and easier... no real benefit over the 20v. 20v more difficult but newer technologies and still just as much potential as a 16v. another thing to consider is that ARIAS make aftermarket low compression pistons for the 20v...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benzo Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) I'm doing a 20 valve into AE71 at the moment. When it is finished I can tell you if it is worth it or not. At this stage I am reluctant to continue with it due to increased cost over the 16 valve, however I am too committed funds wise and with parts now not to go ahead with it. I am not sure if I had my time again that I would go 20 valve. Too much stuffing round with the dizzy and water cooling issues. 20 Valve conversion in my mind - without labour costs as I have done most myself - will run into $3K plus. 16 Valve 4AGE can be had for $1500 as a package with ECU, gearbox, etc out of a RWD Sprinter so you bolt straight in. Way cheaper. 20 Valve will be revvier and make a bit more power than 16 Valve. But if you can't bare to spend more than $3K on it, don't even start with it. 4AGZE actually aren't that exciting out of the box and make about as much power as a 20 Valve standard. 4agze might not have much more power than 20v but power means shit, its the torque that counts. +1 for 16v. very easy and cheap conversion I'm building a na 4age I'm aiming for anything over 200hp at the fly 304 cams, 11:1 compression, itb's, all the good shit then once off p's its gonna be high boost 4agte So depends how much shit you want to come out of your pants when you put your foot down really :dance: Travis seems stupid to build a very very very expensive N/A 4age (200hp is gonna cost $$$$$), with plans to then just build a high boost 4agte in a year or two. You won't be able to put a turbo on a 200hp N/A 4age, unless you run 2psi boost lol so you will have to sell that engine (loosing alot of money), and then spend lots of money building a reliable 4agte. Think it through a bit more... Cheers, Ben. Edited April 9, 2009 by benzo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OniBerserker Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 4agze might not have much more power than 20v but power means shit, its the torque that counts. amen its all about torque delivery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmac80 Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 torque delivery isn't everything to some people. depends on how the individual driver likes to drive. i'm not a fan of cutting sick burnouts or anything like that so torque isn't important. however my driving style is waaay up in the rpm range when doing hill runs. i spend a lot of time near the limiter so up there its all about the KW not the torque. but again driving style... during the week etc or around town i put around like a nanna. so as said before it all depends on what you want out of your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budowski Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 If you were going to all the effort of the 3SGE is there any reason why you would not go the extra to a 3S GTE?? The GTE doesnt interest me, I'm a lover of the NA and many reasons why i only want the 3SGE which turn into would a old man ranting :dance:. Not interested in the 1.6 when i could have more power from a 2L in standard form. 86kw 4age easy to find, 100kw 4age 16v hard to find. 20v sorry to say (ill get flamed) but i really don't see the point just personal preference sorry guys. 4AGZE is in a class of its own. 3SGE 3rd generation before emission change in 1996 puts out 132kw and to me the torque matters for what I'm going to be trying to acheive. For me this is just something to play with as my next real car will be a GTR. Hope i havent come off as arrogant :) rant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerhead Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Basically your comparing apples, oranges and banana's. All of the the motors above have there advantages, be it price, torque, or power delivery. 20V's are only rumoured to have bad bottom end torque due to poor tuning when running open velocity stacks. Well tuned they have a great linear power curve and keep on giving to well over 7200rpm. If you like cornering you want a nice progressive power curve, something that's easy to put down and not just all of a sudden have your torque double and induce wheel spin. If you want to beat all the bogans in there VL turbo's or V8 commonwhores, a 4AGZE or 4AGTE will definitely be a better choice. If you're a lover of atmo motors and like ITB induction noise you can't look past a 20V. On a race track a stock 20V will leave a stock 4AGZE for dead if well driven. They are a more challenging motor to drive fast, but if you're good on the stick and keep the revs up they are a great track motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roo Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I'm building a na 4age I'm aiming for anything over 200hp at the fly 304 cams, 11:1 compression, itb's, all the good shit then once off p's its gonna be high boost 4agte So depends how much shit you want to come out of your pants when you put your foot down really :dance: Travis lol good luck, why would do lay down 5k+ just to change in a year or 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trav_555 Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 4agze might not have much more power than 20v but power means shit, its the torque that counts. +1 for 16v. very easy and cheap conversion seems stupid to build a very very very expensive N/A 4age (200hp is gonna cost $$$$$), with plans to then just build a high boost 4agte in a year or two. You won't be able to put a turbo on a 200hp N/A 4age, unless you run 2psi boost lol so you will have to sell that engine (loosing alot of money), and then spend lots of money building a reliable 4agte. Think it through a bit more... Cheers, Ben. i have thought abotu it and i have 5k+ to spend so why not? not spending it on anything else... and it will take a year to build the 4agte so i want a nice tough 16v to cruise around in in the mean time so yeah, don't worry ive thought it through :dance: money isnt a factor, just save longer Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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