try using some thick ass HYDRALIC OIL (not diff oil/ used engine oil etc etc)

 

But don't expect it to work!

 

You need to look at the viscosity index of the oils, or you will end up with something that thins out too quickly when it heats up. You should also test the viscosity of the oils if you don't have that listed from the manufacturer, as a slight change in viscosity may mean a big change in shock stiffness and you can end up with rigid shocks. I found a hydralic oil designed for machinery in Antartica worked well, but this was over 20years ago & I can't remember the name. It was quite thin but resisted temperature change very well.

 

While I haven't had a rolla strut apart, we used to alter the valving on Datsun 1600 struts for rallying, a simple job involving blocking some holes in the bump and rebound valves, then use a thinnish oil. That worked OK.

 

Slapper you sound like an old bugger, I'm sure you could teach the young guys on here stacks of stuff in some good tech articles...

Also make sure that the oil you are using is compatible with the seals in the strut. Some hydruaulic oils will EAT the seals......

Also make sure that the oil you are using is compatible with the seals in the strut. Some hydruaulic oils will EAT the seals......

 

 

aka don't use diff oil/ brakefluid/ used engine oil

 

I'm gonna go to super cheap tomorrow and look for thick ass hydralic oil :P

No, certain types of hydraulic oil are not compatible. Not just the above.

If you are going to change oil in your struts, talk to a motorcycle shop that plays with race bikes. They should have some idea of what can be used and what can't.

 

And yes, don't use old engine oil. It ate through the seals in one day :P

If you are going to change oil in your struts, talk to a motorcycle shop that plays with race bikes. They should have some idea of what can be used and what can't.

 

And yes, don't use old engine oil. It ate through the seals in one day :P

 

 

hahahhahaha :cool: please add this to my "dodgiest mods youve done to your car" topic

don't no if this has been answered but is there a sway bar that will mouth straight up to the origonal ke55 rear sway bar that is stiffer ?

maybe give whiteline a call?

don't no if this has been answered but is there a sway bar that will mouth straight up to the origonal ke55 rear sway bar that is stiffer ?

 

Why - do you like single spinning to a standstill any time you go near a corner???????

Edited September 29, 200917 yr by coln72

i need the car stiff as possible its drift only car

Just make it solid then - why bother with suspension :)

a little thread reserrection,

 

went down to my local pedders store and asked for std height springs for mine, they only had lowered ones

 

witch shares the same part number with N13 nissian pulsars!

 

so if your pov and want a little low, go down your local wreckers and look for the pulsar section!

 

happy rolling

Edited September 26, 201016 yr by Evan G

more thread resurrection....... I checked out the Whiteline site for swaybars and the only ones listed for the KE 3X series exclude the wagon. Anyone know why or have any ideas as I really want to improve my cars handling. AFAIK there is no real difference in suspension between the sedans and wagons. Feel free to prove me wrong though as I am a Rolla noob lol

a little thread reserrection,

 

went down to my local pedders store and asked for std height springs for mine, they only had lowered ones

 

witch shares the same part number with N13 nissian pulsars!

 

so if your pov and want a little low, go down your local wreckers and look for the pulsar section!

 

happy rolling

Question - front or back on the N13 ?