Because it's worth it.. I changed my oil and oil filter a little over a month ago, but the filter sucks.. Takes a couple of seconds before the light goes out after I start it up, and I don't want to kill my motor, could've driven with the old filter then.. And since I almost have 5k km on the 'new' oil and filter now, I'm changing it over the weekend. The OEM filter is only a couple of dollars more than the crap I bought last time, that's just awesome really :y:

 

What filter did you put in it before you swapped to genuine?

 

Valvoline has been proven to be a crap filter and doesnt meet the australian standards.

 

Ryco is good, never had an issue and AC Delco filters are 50/50.

Valvoline has been proven to be a crap filter and doesnt meet the australian standards.

I didn't know Norway had the same standards as Australia. :y:

I didn't know Norway had the same standards as Australia. :y:

 

Henceforth why I said AUSTRALIAN :y:

 

Australian standards are pretty strict when it comes to manufacturing. I should know, I made the handbrake assembly for the VE Commodore, both left and right hand drive.

 

So if its absolute crap by our standards, I wouldnt recommend it to anyone :)

I just checked it out, it's a Tecneco filter sitting there at the moment. We have 3-4 big chains selling car maintainance parts in Oslo, it wasn't like I tried to save a couple of bucks buying crap. Especially as you obviously don't save a lot at all :y:

Edited May 20, 200917 yr by eiriksmil

Never had problems with Ryco or Purolator, but given that Ryco are an Australian company I doubt they're readily available in Norway.

 

Then again, nothing wrong with going genuine.

genuine toyota filters are pretty much the best you can get for a standard oil filter.

i don't use anything but genuine toyota oil filters.

I have only used genuine Toyota filters for years. My understanding was that Ryco filters did not have a drain valve to stop the filter draining each time the engine stopped which meant it had to refill before you got oil pressure. That may or may not actually be the case.

 

Whatever, as soon as I started using genuine filters, the rattle on startup disappeared.

Yeah, can't wait to get that rattle gone.. Valves rattle for seconds as the oil pressure light is still on, and that's kinda sketchy when you sometimes have to give it a little gas to get it to start. Like I said earlier, if I wanted to slowly kill my engine I wouldn't have changed it up in the first place.

I have only used genuine Toyota filters for years. My understanding was that Ryco filters did not have a drain valve to stop the filter draining each time the engine stopped which meant it had to refill before you got oil pressure. That may or may not actually be the case.

 

Whatever, as soon as I started using genuine filters, the rattle on startup disappeared.

 

I'd say they do, because every time I do an oil change the bastards are still always full of oil, even after letting them sit for 20 minutes

 

EDIT: quick skim of the Ryco websites seems to imply that they don't have an anti-drainback valve, rather an anti-syphon valve. Drain-back valves block the inlet on the filter so oil doesn't drain back to the sump, syphon valves block the outlet (and thus keeping pressure downstream). Both serve roughly the same function, except that the syphon valve should theoretically allow the filter to drain but keep oil downstream of it.

 

There's a PDF about it on the Ryco website.

after seeing a ryco filter tear itself off a 3T-GTE engine and then melt the internals due to lack of oil.... i will never use a ryco filter.

 

I'd sooner fill my engine with sawdust.

I'd sooner fill my engine with sawdust.

 

No no... thats for noisy diffs.

 

:D