does anybody know how to shim the oil pump, i might as well do it as i have the sump off and engine out of the car, i couldnt understand the faq properly

but a broken fuel pump arm doesnt explain the oil light was on?

unless it blocked the oil pick up?

 

dw to shim the oil pump is the engine is kaput

ok i think you got confused, i am putting in a worked 5k instead of the 4k that has rod knock, i found that piece in the 5k sump, and i was thinking to shim the oil pump of the 5k as it has 4age pistons and stage 5 cam and I'm going to use 4k head with holley downdraught and extractors

Pull the pressure relief valve out and put a washer in the bolt where the spring sits, This will increase the oil pressure.

i kapish now :hmm:

ok so i went to shim the oil pump today, found that it was already shimmed with a couple washers, so i chucked another in there so theres about 3mm worth, should keep things nice, then sealed up the sump with a new gasket and gasket goo, also had a double row timing chain, now what i was worried about was what to do with the head gasket seeing as it has 4age pistons that must have a larger diameter? do i use the standard head gasket?

Use a 5k head gasket, not a 4k one.

Recommend a genuine toyota one too. Not cheap at around $80 but deffinately the best you can get. :hmm:

ok so next problem to over come is what water pump to use

 

 

the water pump on the left is the one i was using on the 4k, the plate that the fan attaches to has a larger stud pattern than the one that was on the 5k, so that way i can use the larger 4ac clutch fan and also has the outlet that goes to the thermostat, however the 5k pump seems to have a larger turbine inside?

 

If i was to buy a new one should i tell them its for a 5k? will it have the correct outlets or doesnt it matter for the coolant to go back to the thermostat? also does the turbine size make a difference? Also is a 4ac clutch fan better than a solid fan?

Edited August 4, 200917 yr by anastasios

bump?

Just use the same pump, thermostat etc that you were using. Basically just remove all of the ancilaries from the 4k and bolt them onto the 5k. Otherwise you start having issue with things like the pump-thermo little hose.

 

Blade size doesn't really matter, they both pump water!

 

As for the clutch fan - engine fans put mechanical load on the motor. If you can take this load off the motor when the fan is not required by using a clutch then you'll get a poofteenth more power at the wheels. A solid fan however is always sucking that power from the motor.

 

Thermo fans obviously put no mechanical load on the engine, but they do put electrical load on the alternator when they kick in. Thats why the revs will drop just slightly when it turns on.

awsome, is there anyway to open up the clutch to re-oil it? i heard something about impact screws? any ideas on how to get it open?

awsome, is there anyway to open up the clutch to re-oil it? i heard something about impact screws? any ideas on how to get it open?

 

Never really played with a clutch fan. Have always just removed the engine fans and replaced with thermos.

so the electrical load is less than the mechanical load of the clutch fan?

so the electrical load is less than the mechanical load of the clutch fan?

 

 

Yes but not much. The main beneifit to be had (over a solid fan) is that this electrical load is only applied when the engine gets hot and triggers the fan to turn on.

 

When I removed the solid fan from my 13bbp you could actually notice slightly more power at the wheels due to there being no fan mechanical load.

 

This also explains why a lot of race cars don't run alternators. :hmm:

interesting! well i picked up my new late model ke70 water pump, is it necessary to unscrew the backing plate on the pump and use gasket glue on that inner gasket? or should i just leave it and worry about the gasket that connects to the block itself?