Nope that backing plate is sealed already.

 

Just get yourself a proper water pump gasket, can be had from Bursons etc for a couple of bux. :hmm:

what are the benefits of running an 80A alternator instead of the stock one? does it charge faster? also what does underdriving it do?

it means you can run 80 amps of draw, rather than the factory 40 or 50 etc

so you can run more electrics, like thermos, lots of lights, electric winch etc etc, should maintain spark strength better too.

 

dunno if it charges faster, doubt it...

 

underdriving it means it spins slower. so less charge down low, not really a good thing. the pulley is pretty small already, i would only underdrive it if it was a race car, and was definately going to spend the majority of its life high in the rpm.

 

obviously the benefit is, the slower you spin it, the less drag it creates.

the difference it would make, i don't know.

 

but having an alt running to not running is a big difference in load, ie, it was spinning, but not charging, once i connected it to signal to charge, the idle dropped along way, so i don't think it would make a huge difference, as alot of the load is created just because its charging, dunno how much difference speed makes...

awsome thanks for the help, ill probably leave the stock bosch one atm, also is there supposed to be a gasket between the part that holds on the oil filter and the block?

Yes as its pressurising to ~80PSI, probably more in your case now! Not hard to make one though if you get yourself some gasket paper - then you can do you water pump as well.

 

IMHO the only time an 80 amp alt is really required is if you say had a 2000+watt RMS ICE system and your capacitor(s) still can't keep up. :D

yea ill just make one up, i got excited and went and bought a new water pump for 72 bucks that came with a gasket so I'm all sweet on that, thanks guys

hey guys i am using a mechanical dizzy and there isnt supposed to be play in the shaft is there?

how much play ahve you got?

have to allow for the fact theres always gonna be some backlash in the gears, especially how many thousand kms later...

Is it the shaft moving or just the rotor button?

if i grab the gear at the bottom it moves about 1mm up and down

ok well i worked out that the play is normal, i went and bought a new o ring, points and rotor button etc, and was wondering what to set the gap in the points too?

ok well i worked out that the play is normal, i went and bought a new o ring, points and rotor button etc, and was wondering what to set the gap in the points too?

 

 

Supposed to be about .8mm

Just open them up as big as you can so it still runs, then slowly close them up until it stops missing. That'll give you the fattest spark you can have. :lolcry:

could someone move this to technical builds? and maybe change the title to 5k build?

ok guys i need some advice for what work should be done to my head, i have the 5k with 4age pistons, stage 5 cam, that was used in ke25racers car, i am going to use a 4k head off my old motor, but thats stock atm, i have a downdraught holley and extractors and was wondering how far to go with head work? would it be most reliable if i leave it stock?

Supposed to be about .8mm

Just open them up as big as you can so it still runs, then slowly close them up until it stops missing. That'll give you the fattest spark you can have. :P

Won't this bugger the coil?