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Phils Ke30 3sge Beams


philthy30

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Ok bit of an update. Motor hasnt had much work done I'm still pissing around with the blacktop throttle bodies making a manifold plate and welding it onto the factory runners etc. I am still waiting on my axles to be done by the engineers should have them by tomorrow hopefully, have made up my front strut setup with shortened

AE86 strut cases and AE92 top threads welded on to take the AE92 bilstein inserts with adjustable sleeves and springs. Have gone for 6kg/mm springs in the front hope this is close enough. I have dynamatted the firewall and front floor to reduce road/engine noise a bit as it was terrible before, Just in the process of wiring up headlights etc. and that will be the wiring completed.

 

I will put up some more photos of the struts and diff when i have them painted and completed properly.

 

Phil.

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What made you say that 13x7 hotwires are better than 14x7? I'll be running 14x7's on my KE30 when it's running

atleast till I stop liking them :)

 

 

I'm just a fan of 13's i suppose haha. 14 x 7 hotwires in corolla stud pattern are hard to come by over here.

 

Got my axles today and springs for my adjustables so will get some pics up tomorrow of the setup.

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I'm just a fan of 13's i suppose haha. 14 x 7 hotwires in corolla stud pattern are hard to come by over here.

 

Got my axles today and springs for my adjustables so will get some pics up tomorrow of the setup.

They're not the easiest to come across here either... I was pretty lucky to get mine for just $80! But I haven't seen a set for less than $250 now, which go up to prices of $500 for a set of four. I'm so glad I got them cheap, but I want wider for the back :) Pretty much impossible to get in 4 stud. 14x8-9 five stud go for go for $500+ a PAIR.

 

Anyway, good to hear that you're getting all the gear to bolt up most of the underside of your car. Can't wait to show you my KE30 when I start getting work done to it. Might look half as good as yours :)

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What made you say that 13x7 hotwires are better than 14x7? I'll be running 14x7's on my KE30 when it's running

atleast till I stop liking them :)

 

There are few old school wheels that i know of, that look wayyyy better in smaller sizes 13" mainly.

 

I know the dragway splats (4 spokes) i had on my KE30 looked better than their 14" vairants. << Applies to the 4 spoke variant only.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey,

 

got my front adjustable strut and big brake setup all together and ready to go in i am just waiting on my wheels to arrive so i can fit them and check the width of the diff before i go ahead fitting it.

 

All the wiring underbonnet and behind dash is all sorted now, everything works suprisingly. All i need now is the radiator and drop tank, sent away a request today for a qoute for a custom alloy radiator should hear back tomorrow. and drop tank and intank pump will be made and fitted once the diff is in the car.

 

Some photos of the coilover setup. Bilstein AE92 inserts, shortened strut casing with the ae92 thread welded on the top of the AE86 strut Techno Toy Tuning AE86 big brake kit including willwood 4 pot callipers, slotted and semi drilled rotors, braided brake lines.

 

Enjoy,

Phil

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  • 2 months later...

Hey,

 

I know its been a while since the last update but the progress is still happening albeit very slowly. Pretty much got the engine and gearbox sorted now just got to weld together my ITB manifold and get the fuel tank and fuel system sorted and it (hopefully) should be a runner. I got all the front suspension setup sorted after a bit of clever machining of the T3 adjustable camber tops.

 

I had a custom 57mm core radiator made in Christchurch, it cost me a overrated but fits properly and looks pretty good. Also bought a set of Konig Rewinds 15x7 fitted with 195/50R15 Bridgestone RE11.

 

The diff is away at the engineers at the moment being shortened and i should have it back next week to fit the U13 Bluebird rear brakes to it.

 

Scored myself some Racetech 100 seats for $200 with the brackets, so i fitted them in on some modified Mini seat mounts i bought off trademe and also fitted the carpet and lower part of the dash. The top peice of the dash is being recovered as we speak. The interior will eventually see a re-trim but at this stage it looks semi alright and will do until the cars properly on the road.

 

Enjoy,

Phil.

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Edited by philthy30
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  • 1 month later...

Just finished putting my recovered dash top in and decided to have a wee update. Have sorted out everything apart from the fuel system and rear brake mounting and a driveshaft. I managed to find a Mitsubishi RVR 1 inch bore master cylinder and it bolted straight up to the original brake booster with no mods. Got the Hilux diff shortened and it's all fitted up now, still with the lowering blocks until I find some spare cash to get the rear leaves done properly.

 

My throttle body adapter is just at the engineers getting planed down as the heat from welding it warped it a wee bit so should have that back on next week and I can finish off all the engine work. Also fitted up a new 14 inch electric fan. The fuel tank is getting built this week with a Walbro 500hp in-tank pump.

 

Not far to go now am looking forward to getting it started and taking it for a spin.

 

Cheers,

Phil

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well some people run disproportionally stiffer springs to stop tramp but it's a completely wrong approach and will make you go one step fowards and two back so to speak. I am sure someone of your aility could whip something up without much dramas

Edited by Sam_Q
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well some people run disproportionally stiffer springs to stop tramp but it's a completely wrong approach and will make you go one step fowards and two back so to speak. I am sure someone of your aility could whip something up without much dramas

 

So what do you think I should do with the rear springs ? Should i get them stiffened up and run some anti-tramp bars or just get them reset to get rid of the blocks and and keep them factory stiffness ? I am running reasonably (probably too heavy) springs in the front.

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i have BN leaves in my car.. reversed eyes.. extra leaf.. and a half rebound leaf. (helps to stop tramp.)

the stiffness is awesome i looove it. the way my car handles is like a go kart.. the front is pretty stiff too.

 

another thing people do to help stop tramp is to remove the bush in between the leaf pack and the shock mounting plate.

i don't have heaps of power but i have done a skid or two with the ol 4k in the dry and it hasn't tramped.

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So what do you think I should do with the rear springs ? Should i get them stiffened up and run some anti-tramp bars or just get them reset to get rid of the blocks and and keep them factory stiffness ? I am running reasonably (probably too heavy) springs in the front.

 

Another way is to clamp the leafs on the front 1/2 of the springs (in front of the axle) by making a metal band around it, and then welding. As it cools from the weld, it holds it very tight, and effectively becomes a trailing arm. I did this with my KE25 and 3sge motor, no tramp at all. Note, it does stiffen the sping rate considerably of course, as the front half basicly are are trailing arm. The successful Early Escorts with leaf springs used to do similar things.

 

Another thing on stiffness: when you have an effective lateral locator (Panhard rod or Watts linkage or WOB-yes other old idea) it allows the springs to do just be springs and not a locator. This has big effects on the feel of a car's rear stiffness. Alot of people will add 3 or more springs, then after putting on a panhard rod will take them all out or just add the one leaf.

 

For my car, the one extra spring is heaps enough. Ended up taking out a short leaf to make it a bit softer. To give you an idea of what setup ballances my car, I don't have a rear swaybar, and have 250lb front coilovers and a fairly big (22mm adjustable) front swaybar.

 

Hope that helps.

 

By the way, love the car!

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