Didn't go to the drags, I couldn't >| find anyone who was up to go race...

 

Next year I will bring my car down to Brisbane and I will race you. :yes:

I would have brought the Barina, but i would have been mocked and beaten =P

Why is the LM2 better you think?

 

I really just want to datalog each day and make changes at night, I don't want to use a readout or anything like that because I have it on good authority they aren't that useful as a tuning tool. It seems pretty straight forward to do it through data acquisition.

 

Is the LM2 more accurate?

 

Didn't go to the drags, I couldn't >| find anyone who was up to go race...

 

Because it is a hand held with data logging, don't need to connect it to your pc or anything like that to read it and you could possibly send the signal into your dash monitor.

 

• Log directly to SD card (included)
  
• Playback log data on screen and/or with powerful LogWorks software (included)

 

At the end of the day it is up to you but 1st hand experience has shown this to be the best out of the lot, prefer it over the dynojet.

 

I will take a pic of my dynojet screen later today and show you exactly how big it is too.

Cool, I just like the table the adaptronic gives you as it give me the instantaneous instances of TPS, and rpm, temp, all that so I can best judge which sectors to tune.

 

I assume the LM2 just logs the afrs, but how does it relate that to the ecu data at that instant?

I just got a different speed sensor from the wreckers, it fits just like the Toyota one but it is quite different, I assume it has more pulse per rev than the 4 pulse Toyota one, so I will pop the top off it and try to mod it to a 1 pulse type and if that works, I should have flawless speedo data.

I assume the LM2 just logs the afrs, but how does it relate that to the ecu data at that instant?

 

Quite a good point there.

 

I know that the dynojet wideband 2 kit (with lcd display) allows datalogging and can take into account the o2, tps and at what rpm, it is basically a road dyno without giving you a power output.

 

And as promised, here is the pic of the dynojet screen (my phone is a nokia 6120c):

 

 

http://www.dynojetwb2.com/

Looks pretty good, but I shouldnt need something that standalone with the instrumentation I already have.

 

I am now just fitting a hall effect sensor to give a clean speed reading. I tried a few reed switch ones and they were all crap.

 

Will do something on the diff nose like this experiment I'm working on.

Looks pretty good, but I shouldnt need something that standalone with the instrumentation I already have.

 

Has adaptronic released anything to record the data?

If I connect the wideband into the serial input then I can use the laptop on the serial output to record data logfiles. Alternatively I can use the ecu data scan to watch what it is doing. Could even auto tune it.

If I connect the wideband into the serial input then I can use the laptop on the serial output to record data logfiles. Alternatively I can use the ecu data scan to watch what it is doing. Could even auto tune it.

 

Should do that :P

Did some work on the loom today.

 

Injector plug number 2 was only holding on by 3 strands of copper, and the power wire was not adequate cable as it had been soldered at to add other experimental stuff. So I replaced the power wire with a new machine crimped spare from the complete loom I bought to steal wires from. I tapped into it really neatly like Toyota does with the little crimps and a drop of solder to secure it. I added a 2 pin plug to it to give a neat finish and a secure method of sharing the ecu power to some additional sensors like the mvss and any future experiments I might need it for.

 

It runs a bit nicer, especially when you are into it, I guess a stronger power feed to the ecu helps and who knows how the injector might have been affected. Was 2 hours well spent.

 

I think I need to make an ecu controlled flip grill for winter. The radiator is just too efficient. i can hit the cold rev limit after sitting on the highway for a while, especially in sub 15 degree evening conditions. Might make some sort of flip setup in front of the radiator core behind the grill, to maybe block 1/3 of the cooler fins, when rquired. It would self open when the temp hits a certain point, and close if it gets a bit cool.

 

Next thing to do is some cold startup tuning on a really cold morning, it needs better temp trim at the extreme lower levels, and it is becoming more evident as it gets colder.

The trucks in the ice cover the radiator completley. But I guess you could make a cover that Just covers half the radiator or something... Just have a play... I don't think you would need a fancy flip grill... My 2 cents :)

If I do a flip grill it will be concealed under the original grill. I'm not into wildly custom stuff.

Just ordered the innovate LC 1 kit off of ebay.

 

Will begin more serious tuning soon.

what radiator do you run matt? i am worried about this happening with my corolla too.