stick another huge truck battery in the boot ftw!

hmm this is quite susid testing all ur relays/circuits with a multi meter and make sure everythings ok and sus out ur alt too

Yeah i've been through everything twice and so has the auto elec. Everything checks out and it push starts easily. Jst for some reason whilst cranking the ignition feedback to the ecu disappears causing it to not start. It can't be componentry cos it push starts and runs just fine. Also it worked fine for ages then it started getting tempramental then jst stopped working. Also the battery isn't the issue tried bigger ones and jump packs and direct feeds and it made no difference. It just doesn't make sense. Currently trying to find another ecu to try. Apart from that i don't know.

As for the starter motor i suppose i have nothing to lose it aint gonna hurt to try.

Maybe all of the electrics were too much for ignition switch itself and now has too much resistance in it. Put a multimeter across the terminals of that 4 way plug I installed and test the resistance of each contact, ie ignition, run and start.

Yeah i thought that so put relays on everything. The ignition switch only triggers the relays for ignition ON and start signal also i have a relay for the starter motor now. The car still cranks but won't fire. But will push start jst fine. I also tried another ignition switch as well.

And i have been thru the relays and tested the voltages whilst cranking and on ignition ON so i know they are all working.

Ecu still getting the engine start signal? Try another starter and see if that's the problem.

yep its still getting the start signal.

 

well now the ecu has its constant memory feed.. so according to diagrams its almost 100% factory setup..

 

i have another idea to try and then i'm up to getting another ecu and loom and starting again or trying another starter... the starter is working fine but perhaps not i don't know...

ok been way too busy with other stuff to even

Start work on this but today the car ran again for the first time in ages replaced all the internals on the dizzy timed it and off she went. I have my suspicions as to what the problem was but I can't confirm it.

Atm I now need to sort out why it was overheating and finish installing the power windows. Hopefully by the end of the week i'll be driving it again

Luc I had an idea, make and run a mini loom dedicated for the starter circuit. Source a fused power source from the battery and a ground from the engine bay earth and run it into the cabin then with a relay run a start switch and have it directly feed the starter solenoid. The main thing is you don't want it connecting to any other wires other than power, ground and the starter in the engine bay, nothing in the cabin other than your seperate switch. This way you can isolate it from your ecu. I suspect you have a crossed earth between your ecu grounds and something in your ignition circuit or it's somehow causing a feed/inteference problem. But having an independant circuit it should be as close as you can get to push starting it. You can even go to the trouble of trying to keep the new start circuit away from the ecu cabling. If this doesn't work you have a starter motor problem.

Edited June 12, 201115 yr by Sam_Q

exactly what was goin to say sam

Try getting a jumper lead and applying direct battery positive to the starter solenoid, this will either confirm what samQ is saying or show that there is a problem with your starter motor.

yeah I did all that aye and it made no difference.

But at least its running now I believe it was the ignition pick ups in the dizzy. When I pulled the dizzy out I checked the continuity of each wire and it was all perfect it was the same with the new dizzy. Only thing I could see was the pickups had seemed like they were no longer in line causing a slight delay between the switching. When I replaced it all I gapped it all exactly. Put it on and off it went. Like I said though I can't prove it until it happens again if it does.

ok so power windows test fitted... work pretty well..

 

i wasn't happy with the mounting of a few things including my speakers... due to their weight they keep tearing out of the mdf.. so i have competely removed the inner skin and built a frame work for the door/speaker/window regulator.. much better now.

 

so a few changed will happen to my door trim.. no interior door handle.. electric popper instead.. hiding the x over.. flush mounted speaker setup like jdm55's setup.

VH commodore interior arm rest with VN commodore power window switch flush mounted. so basically my door trim will consist of a speaker and an arm rest... simple and clean..

pics up when i find the card adaptor.