When ignition is on the dizzy gets 12v and it will push start once cranking it drops to 9v even though the power is coming from a relay I"m so confused

Man this thing looks so good in those wedding shots, great work getting it going so quick!

 

wiring. Its hard to help without a full view of your scenerio,

 

first thing i would do is run a temp wire directly to your coil from your battery and see if it starts, to be sure you are chasing the right thing.

 

Is your coil relay getting its source directly from the battery terminal, and negetive returning directly to battery?

 

So is your relay giving power when in the 'on' position from the key?

yes relay is giving power when ignition is ON perhaps i need a 5 pin relay? but from what i can make out from diagrams they have 4 pins from factory. i could be wrong though. and give it another signal from the start signal??

 

relay is getting power directly from the battery but earthing through the chassis next to the relay.

 

the power feed idea i thought of and i'm going to try that today.

 

Cheers about the car means alot coming from a fella that is and has built some really nice cars.!!

well after much assing about... everything has relays now... also the ignition switch has been tested and is fine... everything is fine...

but.... EVERYTHING in the car gets 12v when its on ignition ON as soon as you crank EVEYTHING drops to 9-10v

 

i'm thinking wtf? so i check the battery... 12v then crank and it drops to 9-10v... push start the car and everything is getting 14v....

 

so myself and a few others are thinking the last thing it could be is the battery... perhaps its too small.

its 330cca but nothing else explains the voltage drops across the board. so mid next week i'll try using a jump pack on the car and see if it works.. if it does then obviously i need a bigger battery.

yep turns out the starlet is recommended to have a 430cca

the battery dude reckoned the 330 woulda been fine even though i did tell him the details of the car.

never trust 'some dude's' advice. unless its on good authority they are 98% wrong, hahaah.

 

as you always do, do your own research 1st on everything, including battery size :yes:

 

glad to hear you got it sussed (hopefully)

 

cheers, scott

Edited May 11, 201115 yr by PMP020

well i can only hope... the battery has spent the night at battery world on their machine doing diagnostics and recharging it...

i'll grab it today and give it a crack.. if it works then i'll drive it a while and see if it starts to happen again..

 

if it happens again then i need a bigger battery..... does anyone know the size of a cressida alternator?? cos from what i could make out they will be a direct bolt in and i would hope its more amps than the standard

40amp starlet one.

well i'm rooted i'm at my wits end... i have tried everything i can think of and everything anyone else can think of..

and still no go...

 

it still push starts but will not start once cranking.. i've added earths here there and everywhere... put relays on everything...

tested power every where... tested voltages everywhere etcetc. and still nothing...

even once the battery was fully chraged and the CCA came up as 400cca it still didn't do the trick the voltage still dropped down to 10.7V i don't think its enough.

 

so its now with hackham auto elecs hopefully they can give me speedy diagnosis...

 

on another note i reckon either i have a cooling system block or the thermostat isn't doing its job.. cos its getting hot and staying hot... just something else to sort out.

getting over this shit... but once i've ironed out the bugs it should be all go andbe reliable.

nope not sorted... hackham auot elec spent 4 hrs on it and couldn't find out whats causing the problem...

well they found the issue but couldn't figure out why its happening or how to resolve it..

 

basically as soon as you crank there is no signal coming out of the distributor no 'feedback'. thats the problem... but there doesn't seem to be any apparent cause for it.

 

so Grant from dynatronics is being organised to have a looksie.

well upon the suggestion of the auto elec to replace the ingnition wires with sheilded cable i pulled the loom out

the wires had to all be lengthened to suit my rwd setup.

 

upon stripping the wiring all back i found that the 2 feedback wires were sheilded from factory... but since they had been lengthened so much the sheilding basically is useless...

so i'm redoing the loom removing unused wires.. shortening lengthening etc. will be done with it soon so we'll see what happens.

ok no go same as before...

 

noticed that the ecu hasn't got a constant 12v feed... its been wired into the ignition ON feed i wonder if thats the problem?

if it had a constant feed wouldnt it drain the battery? or is it like a radio, its constant to remember all your settings etc etc?

are ur injectors getting power when u crank it ive seen setups drop all power to the injectors while cranking its a pain in the ass

All power still dropping to 10v whilst cranking?

Are you able to get your hands on another starter motor, if you can push start it but can't start it with the starter motor maybe it's something to do with that.

 

And yeah evan it's just a memory feed, for some reason.