I honestly can't see that making any difference whatsoever from a structural point of view.

 

Save your money and buy something worthwhile.

 

+1

 

 

You know what else makes your car "feel" tighter? A big fat placebo.

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Edited October 16, 201016 yr by wde_bdy

In a hatchback where you've got very little between shock towers to keep the body stiff I could see the point. But just looking at that KE70 pic in the first page, I wouldn't bother, your body across the parcel shelf will be inherently stiff enough for a street car.

 

If you were racing it, cage it.

Edited April 6, 201016 yr by philbey

Adding a strut brace to a boaty high car is like having an apple or a water with your maccas, regardless you've got a pice of crap in the picture which needs to go!!

 

All this racecar development I have been working on is a myth, My life is ruined.

Have you guys felt where that top part of the brace welds to, it is flimsy as all shit. Easy and much cheaper to DIY. I mean its just a peice of 2 (1/2) maybe inch steel tube by the looks of it. $180 :thumbsup:

Edited April 7, 201016 yr by Jason

Have you guys felt where that top part of the brace welds to, it is flimsy as all shit. Easy and much cheaper to DIY. I mean its just a peice of 2 (1/2) maybe inch steel tube by the looks of it. $180 :thumbsup:

 

+1

If having it there will make you feel better do what other have said and weld in an old tow bar mount... or hell, just a bit of steel pipe.

 

All three will do 2/10's of SFA.

 

 

Just because it has an Ay Jay Pee Ess sticker on it doesn't mean its any good.

Also going out on a bit of a limb here.

 

If I ask my self where are the stresses from a cornering load in the back, I would say, 1 panhard rod, 2, torsion load in arms (maybe, I would assume the pan hard rod would try to remove this), 3 lateral spring load.

 

Please feel free to argue with me :y:

 

After a bit more thinking (yah work :thumbsup:) IMO it would be hard to actuality brace the spring perches them selves (Like easy enough braces in the front) as they are pretty much level with the floor of the boot. Anybody keen on some tension string and video?

Edited April 7, 201016 yr by Jason

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Edited October 16, 201016 yr by wde_bdy

I wasn't saying any of you were wrong in doubting thatt rear strut braces effectiveness, as i can easily see how putting a nice big fat piece of pipe at the rear of ones keto will make the driver feel race spec.

 

But of course why the hell would a piece of pipe be stronger than the cars own chassis which is about 10mm below it!, but now begs the question, would any rear strut brace make a notable difference in a ke70 with standard rear suspension setup?......RedSpirit had braces all through his car didnt he??

 

Really enjoyed reading these responses :thumbsup:

Ok kinda offtopic but still on topic of chassis strengthening, I have removed my sound deadening inside the car, and noticed the seams. Would it make a difference if these were seam welded? I will try and get some pics.

Yes. Seam welding is a good idea for any car thats going to spend a bit of time on a race track. :thumbsup:

ah i love these rear strut bar things. i also love the fact people pay such rediculous amounts of cash for them.

 

i can sorta see the worth while of these in say s13's that have "coilover" struts, but even then they have double wishbone in the back anyway, so the spring/shock will never have lateral forces on it. sure bracing is a good idea (especially with stiffer springs etc), but don't brace the 2 moving parts together!!

 

i like the idea of welding a few bits of pipe between the shock mounts/spring perches and the parcel shelf.

 

the parcel shelf is supposed to be pretty strong, or even better you could weld to the C pillar, the seat belts are on there so must be pretty strong.

 

alternatively you could weld a fewrandom pipes across your boot and fill your boot with expander foam. that will stiffen it up!!

 

steel-foam composite anyone?...just don't open your boot...ever...

The difference is in the AE82 you also have spring loads through the shock mounts, they are really only useful for the RWD Corollas if you have converted to coilover in which case you should have re-inforced the shock mounts anyway.

 

Callum

Depends on which type of coil-over - McPherson style yes, possibly. Multi-link style no, not really worth the hassle.

 

+1

If having it there will make you feel better do what other have said and weld in an old tow bar mount... or hell, just a bit of steel pipe.

 

All three will do 2/10's of SFA.

Hey, hey, the tow bar is a piece of usefulness - it can be used to tow a trailer.

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Edited October 16, 201016 yr by wde_bdy