the angle of the balljoint area doesn't mean much... well it does it contributes to messing the scrub radius up.. the balljoint just ends up on a not so good angle as well. but you get your camber.. my setup with the cressida struts and the same arms you've got flipped gave me -1.5 degrees camber. when i decided to save my tie rods etc. i flipped em back to normal. it gave +2 degrees.. and this is with camber and castor tops... (holden ones) not heaps of adjustment with them but the most you can get on stock springs without going coilovers. i then put sigma LCA's in and i now have -.5

 

with your skills on a lathe and milling how about turning up some brand new arms? T3 do some but not for this app.

sorry but this information is bordering on being dangerous, the ball joint angle is done because the lower control arm is run on a different angle so allowing for ball joint movement, swapping these without removeing spring and running suspension through its full suspension travel is just crazy, Swapping steering arms from one vehicle to another ( have a look at the pics, the outer tie rod position is in a totally different position completely throwing out any thought of toe out on turns and bump steer) should not be done and as far as swapping left to right then running the tie rods out to their last threads is just plain insanity, unfortunately young kids read this and will go out and give it a go, Go back to your pedders guy and get him to check your set up, ask him to check your geometry then see if he thinks what we have done is dodgy

curly chill dude... i am saying it is an option... samrt people will get longer adjuster tubes.. which i did. i didn't like the angle at which everything was on and so i put them back to how they are supposed to be. the angles are fine if the car is lowered... i've said this already.. but. in saying that if you suspension ever hits full droop (unlikely) but if it does this could cause problems.

what has the spring got to do with anything?

 

quote

Swapping steering arms from one vehicle to another ( have a look at the pics, the outer tie rod position is in a totally different position completely throwing out any thought of toe out on turns and bump steer) should not be done

 

how else would you bolt these struts in? it doesn't throw out your tou out and doesn't induce bump steer. i kow this from experience

 

nothing is dodgy on my car.. everything is BOLT on the st141 arms are the right way around now... but running them the other way around is not dangerous at all as long as you get the longer steerer tubes. AND the car is lowered. but. it does mess up your scrub radius

 

i preferred to save my joints and not lower my car heaps so i put em back.

 

quite frankly i reckon removing a dowel and filing a hole on your steering arm is much more dodgy and unsafe.. at least with the st141 arms it BOLTS on with no mods but it isn't the most ideal setup.

By your own admission full droop could cause problems (like the bottom ball joint falling out) and swapping those steering arms will definately stuff up your toe out on turns and bump steer, but as your running 5 deg negative camber you have given up os steering and tyre wear, but what i am saying is what you wrote is danderous if some of the kids on here try it so why in the hell would you even think of putting it in print, I have a long history of suspension engineering and i can tell without doubt that our way is perfectly safe and yours is unfortunately not

IF you look at this photo you will see that the ball joint is tilted toward the centre of the car, by swapping it to the other side puts it to the outside and faces it out and down, on full suspension droop this will cause the ball joint and tie rod to be over extended with the outcome being total ball joint or tie rod failure, if your lucky this will be when its on a hoist but most likely when cornering fast or over a fast bump, please do not consider this

Edited August 30, 201016 yr by curly

fair enough i'll edit my post... i'm considering the idea of making some arms... cad draw them get them cut and milled..

only thing i can't do atm is the taper... if i can find someone to do this then i may make em.

 

are you sure.. about filing the hole? i got reemed on toymods for the idea... perhaps re drill it a bit lower so you can fit the dowel back in?

fair enough i'll edit my post... i'm considering the idea of making some arms... cad draw them get them cut and milled..

only thing i can't do atm is the taper... if i can find someone to do this then i may make em.

 

are you sure.. about filing the hole? i got reemed on toymods for the idea... perhaps re drill it a bit lower so you can fit the dowel back in?

pm sent

Edited August 31, 201016 yr by curly

I have only just dummied fitted everything at this stage to see how it all looks with measurements and angles. The dowels will be fitted for the final assembly.

I have only just dummied fitted everything at this stage to see how it all looks with measurements and angles. The dowels will be fitted for the final assembly.

 

hey mate lovin this thread very interesting, I'm very keen on the end result as i may go with a similar setup for my celica, once youve perfected this setup

just an opinion would you be able to post just a overview of this like whats needed/or to be done, might also save you later with people asking questions what they need.

 

keep up the awesome work following this thread for sure

 

cheers

matt

I may go with a similar setup for my celica, once youve perfected this setup.

 

 

I do not know anything about the Celica strut / stub angle but I'm sure there are other people out there with more knowledge about Celica’s.

 

Keep up the awesome work following this thread for sure

 

Thank you for your kind words, I have a few more plans with this little Corolla and I have a lot of work in front of me.

Edited August 31, 201016 yr by _FNQ_rolla_

Its back on the road after 4 months :dance:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

pass the tissues, that looks INSANE!

 

now whats the plans or area of attack?

 

oh and what did you end up doing with your master cylinder to cope with the bigger brakes?

Edited September 17, 201016 yr by MattyZ

oh and what did you end up doing with your master cylinder to cope with the bigger brakes?

 

 

What did I do for the master cylinder was to change the Factory Toyota PBR ¾ bore to a Holden VN V8 1 inch bore which bolt onto the standard booster and they work fine.

 

Below the Factory Toyota PBR ¾ bore

 

 

 

30+ years of crap in the reserve

 

 

 

Below Holden VN V8 1 inch bore

 

Edited October 6, 201016 yr by _FNQ_rolla_

Just a bit of an update.

 

This week the engineer came to town and inspected and tested the brake upgrades.

 

I had no idea what he was going to do, so I just prep it as if it was going for a roadworthy.

 

The engineer was inspecting the following.

 

On the front

 

Toyota Corona struts

Toyota Crown MS65 hubs

Honda NSX 298mm vented front disc (DBA # 486)

Custom made adaptor for caliper to strut

VT commodore twin piston front calipers

 

 

On the rear

 

Ford EL 299mm rear disc (DBA #133)

Custom made adaptor for caliper to diff

R31 Nissan rear calipers

Custom made hand brake cable to suit

 

 

Master cylinder

 

The above had to have a brake master cylinder that was suited to the upgrades so a 1inch master cylinder from a VN V8 (PBR) bolted up nicely to the master cylinder which worked fine (the proportioning was fine).

 

 

So what did the engineer do....

 

1. Popped the bonnet and checked everything corresponded with the vin

 

2. Onto the hoist, going over everything (looking at bolt grades ~ I used 10.9)

(this went on for about 30minutes or so and being asked a few questions)

 

3. Testing the brakes at different speeds 60, 80 & 100kms while being connected to a machine that recorded; speed (build in GPS) how much force was used to depress the brake peddle, the stopping G-force, how level the car was under braking, the time and distance the vehicle took to stop and it could also print out a graph (this is one clever little machine). Under hard braking the average force was 1.2 G’s.

 

The engineer was happy with it all and I got my mod plate for the brakes.

 

Now I can move onto the engine mods :devil:

Its back on the road after 4 months :dance:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

man i really like the look of this car and the upgrade you are doing are really something well done also

that paint on the car really sets it off as well

nice work so far, will be watching this thread for sure

man i really like the look of this car and the upgrade you are doing are really something well done also

that paint on the car really sets it off as well

 

Thank you,

 

The paint is a little tired (a couple of little scratches here and there but thats last on my list to do)and i do think the shiny wheels work well with the colour.

 

BUT it still has the 3K and an auto (but stay tuned as i have big plans for that department over the next 6 months) :devil: