_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) what are the year models of the cars that all these parts came out of? Front Suspension/Brake setup Corona struts with KYB strut inserts............1983–1984 Toyota Corona (ST141)(must be used with Otomoto camber top kit) Crown MS65 hubs (5 stud ~ Ford pattern..........1972 ms65 series I and II Adjustable coilover suspension..................Otomoto sleeve kit Honda NSX 298mm disc............................1990–2005 front disc rotor Custom made caliper adapter.....................Made by me :y: Holden VE twin piston calipers..................2006–2010 Holden VE twin piston calipers Holden VN V8 1 inch brake master cylinder.......1988–1991 Holden VN V8 1 inch brake master cylinder Rear setup 3 inch / 75mm tailshaft.........................Made by me :y: Hilux diff (5 stud).............................Had it made Ford Falcon 299mm EL discs......................1996–1998 rear disc rotor Custom made caliper adapter.....................Bought from a mate Nissan R31 Skyline calipers.....................1985–1989 Nissan R31 Skyline Custom made handbrake cables....................Had it made Hope this helps you out. Have a read over the thread and send me a PM if you need to know more. Edited January 22, 2012 by _FNQ_rolla_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 before i ask my builder to do this i need to be able to answer the possible questions.. thanks Good questions; How much have u taken off? I took of the minimum amount as possible to have a flat surface to be able to put the oil squirter's on. (about 0.5mm) Why did u machine the whole space? Because at the time it was the only mill cutter I could find and it was small enough to do the job (you only need to make a flat surface big enough for the oil squirter). How do u know were to drill? By looking and measuring up a 4AGE block and having a look at where the oil gallery was running in the 7A block. All the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae824ate Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I would be asking for my deposit back on the turbo. Pretty rediculous amount of time to wait. What made you choose a BW in the begining btw? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shayden Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Ohh ok ill hunt down some oil squirters n give my builder them to put in.. Ive got ur pics as a guide if u don't mind :) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I would be asking for my deposit back on the turbo. Pretty ridiculous amount of time to wait. What made you choose a BW in the beginning btw? Just curious. 6 Months now! Yeah it has been a bloody long time and the more I’ve been thinking about it over the weekend I think I will be asking for a Garrett turbo. Why an EFR BorgWarner in the first place, well I walked into the turbo shop all ready to buy a Garrett turbo and they told me about this new fantastic turbo and all of its features and functions and I was now more confused then ever. So I left with a handful of stats and figures relating to the Garrett and the EFR BorgWarner turbo’s so I could compare the two. On paper the BorgWarner read to be the better turbo, so a week later after having a good research around the internet (found some forum sites on the BorgWarner EFR turbo’s) I put down a deposit. I was told delivery would be between 6 to 9 weeks as they were new still on the production line, I was in no hurry so I could wait. But the more I think of it I thing that the BorgWarner could be in trouble with the GFC and if I did get one of these turbos and they stopped making them or parts I would be left with a lemon (these are my thoughts atm). I still have all of the Garrett part numbers that I need to put together the turbo combo I want, so I'm thinking I might use the BW deposit for the Garrett parts. Another plus with a Garrett is there are heaps of parts out there and a popular brand of turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Ohh ok ill hunt down some oil squirters n give my builder them to put in.. Ive got ur pics as a guide if u don't mind :) Thanks Hey you do not really need oil squirters, but for what I want to achieve and with the skills and machinery I have and can use I thought why not do it. I would firstly ask your machinist for a quote (you do not want to find out that this part of the job is going to be more then everything that they have already done. As for the pictures, you can use what ever you want (because once you post anything on the internet you no longer own it) I’m happy to share information to help with a build, because after all that’s what we do on “Rollaclub” :yes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I’m happy to share information to help with a build, because after all that’s what we do on “Rollaclub” :yes: I'd have to agree with you man. I've got ssooo much info out of rollaclub, it's not funny. Gotta spread the rolla love!! What rough size in Garrett were you thinking? GT30X or 2876??? If you don't want it known until you get it I understand. Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae824ate Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Fair enough choice on the Borg i guess, but i had the same concerns thinking about it. Getting parts or replacement would be difficult, where as a Garrett or an IHI are easy to source parts or replacements for, they are not going out of business any time soon, and are proven performers. You said you had comparisons on paper between turbos? What was compared? If i had the money to throw around i would look at a disco potato, or a hybrid ball bearing made to your needs and application. can't wait to see more progress, i would love to build a lumpy bored out 7A :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I'd have to agree with you man. I've got ssooo much info out of rollaclub, it's not funny. Gotta spread the rolla love!! What rough size in Garrett were you thinking? GT30X or 2876??? If you don't want it known until you get it I understand. Stu. Lol at the rough size…… I know this is a little motor in CC and I do not want a Dyno Queen or a lag monster. I want a quick car I want to enjoy driving it on the road, either going on a cruise or to drive it to work but then I want to run some impressive times down the ¼ strip. So for now I am going for a mix of T28 bits, as I do believe this should be a good match for the motor and the weight of the vehicle. If this becomes a little dull after a while, I will know the characterises of the car and motor and I should be able to make a good call on a larger turbo for a Dyno Queen (please shoot me if I ever do that) or for a faster time on the ¼ strip. (I have built this motor to handle nos if I decide to use that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Fair enough choice on the Borg i guess, but i had the same concerns thinking about it. Getting parts or replacement would be difficult, where as a Garrett or an IHI are easy to source parts or replacements for, they are not going out of business any time soon, and are proven performers. You said you had comparisons on paper between turbos? What was compared? If i had the money to throw around i would look at a disco potato, or a hybrid ball bearing made to your needs and application. can't wait to see more progress, i would love to build a lumpy bored out 7A :happy: The first thing was the stainless steel housings on the BW (smooth compared to the Garrett). The compressor wheel was made from some fancy material (I can not remember what now). When comparing the compressor graphs the BW would have produced boost earlier and kept on making if after the Garrett ran out. (But this is all on paper and no one has played with the EFR BorgWarner on a 7A or a 4A as far as I know of) As for being bored out, I'm running oversized pistons (bigish turbo cams) and a decent compression ratio, and at this stage for the ¼ strip I will have the boost around 25psi. So it should sound ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae824ate Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Yeah i have followed your thread the whole way, it should haul ass. 25 lbs :o I'd invest in a neck brace haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shayden Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hey you do not really need oil squirters, but for what I want to achieve and with the skills and machinery I have and can use I thought why not do it. I would firstly ask your machinist for a quote (you do not want to find out that this part of the job is going to be more then everything that they have already done. As for the pictures, you can use what ever you want (because once you post anything on the internet you no longer own it) I’m happy to share information to help with a build, because after all that’s what we do on “Rollaclub” :yes: haha thanks. but for my own good ima get themm ordered them today, after pulling a motor outta a little hino at work today cos its spun a bearing ( low oil ) i got a lil worried .. stil 30bucks each order from japan 3weeks time ill have them :) and my builder will be more them happy to do them even if he just drills the holes i can put everything together.. after all i am a mechanic o.O lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) haha thanks. but for my own good ima get themm ordered them today, after pulling a motor outta a little hino at work today cos its spun a bearing ( low oil ) i got a lil worried .. stil 30bucks each order from japan 3weeks time ill have them :) and my builder will be more them happy to do them even if he just drills the holes i can put everything together.. after all i am a mechanic o.O lol There’s more to it; “after pulling a motor outta a little hino at work today cos its spun a bearing ( low oil ) i got a lil worried ..” Oil squirters do not lubricate the bearings, their main purpose is to help cool the underside of the pistons. As for low oil, if there is no oil to be pumped up to the oil squirters, then the crank/cam bearings are not getting oil pumped to them either. my builder will be more them happy to do them even if he just drills the holes i can put everything together.. after all i am a mechanic o.O lol Its more then just drilling a hole into the oil gallery, you need to machine the surface flat like I have done to my block otherwise the oil squirters will not seal against the block. The squirters are like a banjo setup one side seals against the underside of the bolt head and the other against the block. Another thing you will have to do is position them in the correct location so the relief cut in your pistons will clear the oil squirter (protruding straw/squirter thing). There is also a location pin on the underside of the oil squirter that locates the oil squirter into the correct position that locks it in place against the block so it will not move. “after all i am a mechanic o.O lol” and even if your builder “just drills the holes” you will not be able to “put everything together” with regards to the oil squirters it’s a little bit more involved then what you are thinking. All the Best Edited January 23, 2012 by _FNQ_rolla_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shayden Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 There’s more to it; Oil squirters do not lubricate the bearings, their main purpose is to help cool the underside of the pistons. As for low oil, if there is no oil to be pumped up to the oil squirters, then the crank/cam bearings are not getting oil pumped to them either. Its more then just drilling a hole into the oil gallery, you need to machine the surface flat like I have done to my block otherwise the oil squirters will not seal against the block. The squirters are like a banjo setup one side seals against the underside of the bolt head and the other against the block. Another thing you will have to do is position them in the correct location so the relief cut in your pistons will clear the oil squirter (protruding straw/squirter thing). There is also a location pin on the underside of the oil squirter that locates the oil squirter into the correct position that locks it in place against the block so it will not move. and even if your builder you will not be able to with regards to the oil squirters it’s a little bit more involved then what you are thinking. All the Best lol yeah i figured its no walk in the park i had a look at ur pics n read up on the blocks... jus sayon if his able to do the drillin part( face it and add thread.. ) ill beable to do the rest if worst come to worst dat is.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_FNQ_rolla_ Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 No new news, As of two days ago, it’s been 6 months since I put a deposit on the “BorgWarner Turbo” (I’m seriously thinking about going for a Garrett Turbo). I will make phone calls on Monday if I get the time and let you know the outcome. Its been a busy last week and I never got the chance to make a phone call, I plan to chase it up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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