Well I'm coming to the part of setting up the fuel system.

I've quickly drawn up a sketch of how I'll plumb it all in and have followed the FAQ/Wiki

section but I have added an extra fuel filter.

 

 

The surge tank has 4 ports so I will have to look into blocking one out. If anything looks

out of place feel free to let me know. It looks like the writing in the green boxes is a little bit stuffed, it

says "Fuel Pump".

Hey Twinky, cars looking good.

 

With the fuel system i have set it up slightly differently.

 

You will need all the outlets.

The top one = return to the fuel tank from the surge tank.( when the surge tank is full you need a way to cycle the fuel between the main tank and the surge tank)

Second from the top= return from the fuel rail

Third from the top= feed from the lift pump

Bottom = feed to the fuel rail

 

I am sure there are variations to this set up, but majority of them are set up like this.

Cheers mate.

 

Would it be wise to use the charcoal canister outlet as the fuel return from the surge tank?

As in getting rid of the canister all together like so.

 

 

Reason being I am not overly keen on getting the fuel tank out and welding another outlet but if it must be done I'll do it.

Should be fine

The inlet on the fuel tank your talking about is to receive the fuel vapors back into the tank from the charcoal canister.

You can use that as a return feed, but not sure how strict your cops are going to be.

There should be a another hose that goes towards the filler neck ( i think it's a breather hose), you could always tee off that and run the hose from your canister to that tee, and keep every thing legit.

Cheers again!

Should be fine

The inlet on the fuel tank your talking about is to receive the fuel vapors back into the tank from the charcoal canister.

You can use that as a return feed, but not sure how strict your cops are going to be.

There should be a another hose that goes towards the filler neck ( i think it's a breather hose), you could always tee off that and run the hose from your canister to that tee, and keep every thing legit.

 

 

Was going to asuggest that, but round the other way - leave the canister line where it is and t-piece into the filler breather for the return from the surge tank.

Yep done it the way Taz has said. I'll post some pics up later tonight, should hopefully be starting her up tomorrow!

Should have started her up over the weekend but my current reluctor pickup in the distributor does not create enough voltage at cranking speeds.

So the computer can't read the signal until slightly higher rpm.

So I'm making a hall type pickup and I'll be finishing it off tonight.

Hold your horses buddy!!! I had exactly the same issue when I first got mine running.

The pickup is actually adjustable (sort of like adjusting points), so just close the "air gap" up a bit and you'll start getting a better signal.

My Wolf also has a step up on the voltage for the pickup. So it runns 'very low' between 0 & 500rpm, 'low' between 500 & 1200, 'medium' from 1200 & 3000 and so on.

 

Did you also work out that you just advance the dizzy 60*btdc not modify the dizzy itself?

You can't just advance the dizzy itself because you will be rotating the ignition timing itself.

That will cause the rotor phasing to be out. If you rotated the dizzy 60 degrees back you are also relocating

the actual physical ignition point back and the rotor button will be in free space when you reach the firing signal.

What I did was rotate the rotor plate 60 degrees back and glued it in place. That way I can keep the dizzy where it is but

the sensor itself is 60 degrees back.

 

Just a a little pictorial:

 

Looking at the dizzy overhead, imagine that the blue bit (rotor button) does not move as you rotate the dizzy back (green bit)

The circles are the point towers. Black ones are the dizzy in normal operation, green in advance.

 

 

 

 

So you can see that the point towers move back as well (green) causing rotor phasing issues.

In modern ignition systems this is not an issue because all of the dizzy are made with the sensors already in advance.

But because I am using a dizzy from a carby car the sensor is already at the firing point.

 

Although I could be miss interpreting you and you are actually mentioning moving the dizzy shaft back 60 degrees by skipping gear teeth?

Edited September 6, 201115 yr by Twinky

Although I could be miss interpreting you and you are actually mentioning moving the dizzy shaft back 60 degrees by skipping gear teeth?

 

 

:y:

This is how mine has been running for 3 years now. :wink:

Awesome!!! I closed the air gap to a bees dick and woop woop I get a signal!!!!! I also found that I can't use my accessory line to switch the ECU because the line drops below 12 volts

while cranking and cuts the ECU out. So I will wire it to a switch. Now comes the stuipid part....... I bought the wrong ignition module.......

So tomorrow I'll get another..

 

Cheers for the advice Taz!!

Ecu should be powered on "on" not acc too. ;)

My ECU has two power inputs, one permanent power source and another switched power source. Seems as though my switched source voltage drops below 12v while cranking.

May have to do what I did for the MSD and link the 2 power wires for the coil.

 

One is direct from the start position supplying the coil with a full 12v whilst cranking

 

and the other is the one that feeds the original ballast resistor when the key is dropped back to ignition.

Yeah I'll be hard wiring straight to the battery through a switch. Voltage at the coil stays at 12 volts though so I don't think I need to do anything there.

I'll be getting my new ignition module today and hopefully I'll be seeing a spark this late afternoon.