Hi Everyone,

 

Well I've been trying to get this car up to scratch for a roadworthy and needed to change the gearbox in it because it simply needed

changing.

 

What my problem is now is the clutch doesn't seem to be fully disengaging when the clutch pedal is all the way down. When I try to put

it into gear it is always hard to do so and reverse grinds horribly until it's "in" gear.. The strange thing is, when I let go of the pedal the

friction point is around half-way through pedal movement rather than right at the floor. ALL of the gears are hard to push into gear. We've

tried adjusting the clutch cable to give us maximum clutch disengagement but doesn't seem to make a difference, have read the Gregory's

manual a bit but it doesn't seem to be a great deal of help.

 

Surely someone has few solutions or can help with some deductive reasoning before I end up calling the mechanic!

Stetched cable,spit clutch fork,outer cable slipping past its mountings ,pressure plate rooted.

 

Also you didnt let the thrust bearing carrier slip back ,as there should be two clips that fix it to the clutch fork.

Edited May 23, 201016 yr by corollaart

Any possibility you installed the clutch plate around the wrong way? I had similar issues once, and ended up finding I'd gotten mixed up and had the "tall" side facing the wrong way......

 

$0.02

To start with - What model of car?

 

Have you had the flywheel machined? Did it have a step in it prior to machining? If not, does it have one now?

 

Have you put the clutch friction plate in back to front? Right clutch release bearing installed?

 

It could be many things and those are things you need to check.

if he put the clutch on the wrong way wouldnt the springs in the friction plate rub on the flywheel therefore LOUD screeching noise?

 

just put spacers behind the clutch cable were it meets the clutch pedal?

Is this the same clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assembly you started with?

 

If it is then the evidence points towards something being cocked up during reassembly.

 

If it's different, I would suspect the pressure plate, when they wear the rivets holding the levers in place get loose and you lose the effective stroke of the levers.

... or a warped clutch plate so it always puts a little spin on the gearbox shaft but can't transmit any power really until the whole plate touches.

It's a KE70

 

The previous gearbox was horrible, BUT the car drove fine with it.. It just made a hell of a lot of noise.

Meaning the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel were all intact and working. The only thing that has been changed

was the gearbox being swapped over so there was no need to touch the clutch gear.

 

I even tried using my hand to pull the clutch fork to disengage the clutch that little bit more but it gave me the

same results of a grinding reverse gear selection!

 

I think corollaart may be onto something. When I put the new gearbox in, I'd left everything as was so didn't

play around with any of the clips or the thrust bearing.

syncro's

Reverse gear doesn't run a synchro.

 

Sounds like the thrust bearing you've got may be incorrect for this setup. I'd pull the box off and check the difference, although you should have been able to adjust it enough to get it to go.

Sounds like the thrust bearing you've got may be incorrect for this setup. I'd pull the box off and check the difference, although you should have been able to adjust it enough to get it to go.

Both were same era KE70 gearboxes, though. The only exception is that the new gearbox is from a 4K and the engine that it's now bolted up to

is a 5K. I've done the gearbox swap before with another 5K without problems. Do they sometimes run a different clutch setup? Thus making the

theory that the thrust bearing is a wrong one correct!

 

Sounds a lot warmer than everything else said. Oh how I hate changing gearboxes for free. ;)

Edited May 25, 201016 yr by seabiscuit