You don't need to encase most of your carbs?? I'm using factory aisan carbs with a top hat and putting 14psi through them and they don't leak or anything, just have to pressurise the bowl etc etc. Also its been bought up and I'm going to have to agree with Taz_rx t25=perfect. I run a decompressurised 4k (non lugged head with dished pistons) and my t25 spools up at 3.2k rpm and makes power all the way to 7g. Anything slightly smaller than that would run outa puff and you don't really want it spooling lower as i almost make boost cruising at 100.

 

Interesting, got a build thread? :)

Wasn't aware they revved that hard, then again I don't have a tacho do was just guessing :P

As for running out of puff, I wont know till I drive it. But it did not have any troubles with the starlet GT (As I have previously shown with graphs)

There is no dramatic drop off in power or torque, at least not until 6k+ and then torque starts to drop down.

Iv actually got a nice graph comparing a CT9 to a TD04 from a starlet with interesting results.

 

A turbocharger with a small cfm in a higher efficiency range will make more power than a big turbo at its low efficiency range. There is a cross over point, just depends on what boost your running.

 

As for the turbo choice, well its not up for negotiation.

This one will do fine for now, and when I want to get more serious, I'm just replacing the motor.

I am aware this will not be a bat out of hell, but it was just a fun project I wanted to do :)

Trying to make any real power... well your milking a dead cow with these motors.

Edited July 20, 201115 yr by Jaydnisevil

Well mines in a KP61 but you will get the idea.

Excuse the horrible paint its currently pulled apart and at paint shop.

Edited July 19, 201115 yr by Velekas

how huch power does that KP61 make

Haven't dynod it yet, still needs boost retarding diaphram to fine tune the spark and a precise tune with a wide band oxi. Before motor goes back in I'm going to port it out and fit 1mm bigger valves too. I'm aiming for around 150ish hp at wheels on around 16-17ish psi.

Well mines in a KP61 but you will get the idea.

Excuse the horrible paint its currently pulled apart and at paint shop.

 

 

Very neat, I like it :)

How did you get the manifold to stay shiny without rusting? Did you have it chromed, or is it just stainless?

Yeah stainless steel tig'd up. Costs a wee bit but it looks good.

A turbocharger with a small cfm in a higher efficiency range will make more power than a big turbo at its low efficiency range. There is a cross over point, just depends on what boost your running.

 

Bs

Bs

 

Heyy Mr I know everything, sup!

Ill go ahead and not take your word over peoples that have been in the industry for years, and actual evidence.

 

Starlet GT low boost comparison CT9 Vs TD04 (I believe the WRX one)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/TTJ/4erun.jpg

 

Blue = CT9 @10PSI

Red = TD04 @8PSI

 

Everything else on the car was identical, other than the for mentioned boost level.

 

 

Btw if anybody wants any info on the 34ADM weber and how to set it up/dismantle. I borrowed a book from tafe and scanned 20 odd pages and made a PDF.

 

http://www.fileserve.com/file/ZAFemPA

Edited July 21, 201115 yr by Jaydnisevil

Fuel pump and reg are installed :)

The pump runs through a relay which is powered through the oil pressure switch.

Oil-pressure drop's (Crashed, stalled etc) and the pump will stop in a second or two.

 

Ill neaten that whole area up tomorrow, its too late tonight :P

Need more angle grinder disks to trim that bracket and have that relay mounted a bit nicer.

 

Found a way to make a top hat without using a MONSTEROUS 4" Mandrell pipe (Which I did look at today, but its was absurdly big)

Its the shell from a cat so it goes from a the 7*10cm carby opening to a 2.5" pipe, which is perfect because the IC uses 2.5"

Ill buy a steel plate tomorrow so I can attach and weld that piece to it.

Just something that i experienced, is that you don't want to have your boost coming down right onto your carb like that, it makes it a bitch to tune because it causes some problems with the petrol in the bowl if i remember correct.

Here's my MK 1 set up:

 

That's the main reason why i changed to a dual carb set up - meant that i could have the boost entering between them and not being forced directly down the throat. Ideally if using one carb you want a decent "box" on top and have it entering that before.

Noted, but any idea what the actually problem was? The vents to the bowl are inside the mouth, so it should get the charge pressure at the same time. Ill have to look into that. If its better (in terms of hight) I might put a box on top of that cat piece, and run a pipe out the side of that.

Then it only need's to be roughly 2.5" high and wide. Opposed to making room for the curve of that pipe, actually I like that idea better...

 

Well I'm trying to find a solution to my clearance problems. As it is, the bonnet JUST hits the carby.. So I need to drop the log enough to allow for the hat. I'm going to get my dad to cut the runners down, bend and re-weld them.

Because I originally had the coolant lines on the other side, I tilted the runners away from each other slightly, so they wont light up directly if I just chop them. We will have to heat and re-position the pipe slightly. Its either that or I replace 80% of my manifold :(

 

The alternative is add a bonnet bulge like the falcons

http://www.bremerford.com.au/img/fpv-gt-image.jpg

 

 

Ohh yea, and neatened up a little.

Edited July 24, 201115 yr by Jaydnisevil

i believe when the boost suddenly came on it blew the fuel out of bowl or something of that nature, can't quite remember. It would splutter and surge you had to ease the boost on then you were fine.

Lift pump?

Is it safe having the fuel pump sitting in the engine bay??? Wouldn't want it to spring a leak mid drive!

A/R's aren't everything. :( The actual size and flow of the turbo are more important. If the turbo is too big (or too small - like a CT9 :lol: ) then no amount of A/R adjustment will correct it effectively.

We need a bit more info on the turbo Mitch, or maybe a pic? Also remember that deisel turbos are only really designed to flow up to 2000-5000rpm.

 

 

You heard anything more about whats happening with your old car Matt? Is the guy who bought it re-shelling the turbo motor?

 

Got an email from the guy who bought my car last night, its been sitting in his shed in bathurst for 12 months as hes been too busy with work and new family to touch it BUT he pulled it out over the weekend,started up fine and is getting the other car painted and then fitting the big engine into it along with all the other goodies.

 

Hopes to get it going Feb next year and wants me to oversee the transplant if he has any dramas.